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    • Are you a renewable energy installer looking to expand your business and provide the best possible service to your clients? Look no further than Powerforum , a leading platform for renewable energy solutions. By partnering with Powerforum and Powerforum Store, you can access a range of benefits that will help you grow your business and better serve your customers.

      Here are some of the benefits of partnering with Powerforum and Powerforum Store:

      Access to Exclusive Pricing: Powerforum Store has established agreements with Importers that allow us to offer the best possible pricing on equipment. This means you can provide your clients with high-quality products at competitive prices.

      Direct Manufacturer Support: Powerforum Store has direct lines of communication with manufacturers, allowing us to provide you with the latest information on new products and technology. This ensures that you are always up-to-date and can offer your clients the best solutions.

      Increased Visibility: By partnering with Powerforum, you gain access to a vast network of potential clients. We receive many inquiries from consumers looking for renewable energy solutions, and we can refer them to installers we trust. This increases your visibility and helps you attract new business.

      Reduced After-Sales Service Burden: Powerforum Store provides consumers with accurate information on products and installation best practices, helping them understand warranty conditions. This reduces the burden on installers to handle warranty issues and protects you from abuse of your services.

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      • 3 replies
    • Hey All

      We have another Awesome Powerforum Store Review and Lucky Draw Giveaway of a very nice Lithium Battery and some other soon to be disclosed goodies on its way....

      Thank you to the Team at Magneto Energy for providing us with equipment to test and review and the best part to let us give it away to one of the lucky members on our forum.

      Terms for you to be eligible 

      Must be a Power Forum Member. Yes even NEWB's Can win the product in the lucky draw.

      Must be willing to give feedback on a thread you create on your experience with the product.

      Allow the Manufacturer to communicate with you to get realworld information on how their product performs and some technical feedback for future improvements.

      If you win the product it must be installed by a qualified technician NO DIY Installs Please we need to support the professionals in the market.

      Provide us with nice photos of your Installation on the thread you created. 

      Cost of delivery or collection of the prize is for the winner.

      We will Post more details on the giveaway in the next couple of days. 

      Thanks for your Continued Support. 

      Powerforum Store
      • 63 replies
    • Vital to being able to keep within the inverter output limits (and avoid importing expensive grid power unnecessarily) is having the means to display the relevant information in an immediate and accessible way.

      That's what I told my wife, anyway.  Really, I'd just scored a bunch of old RC servos on ebay for £5 and I wanted to play with them. 😉


      In context:


      It uses 6 servos, a Wemos d1 mini clone and a tri-colour LED.  Dial faces are 3D printed, with a filament change from white to black (which turned out much better than I imagined, TBH).

      The servos only had around 90° of sweep angle, so I 3D printed some little holder/gearbox things to get over 180° and provide a shaft for the needle to go on, plus some 'steampunk' needles.


      All run buy the obligatory D1 mini and held together using the very latest in 'twist and tape' technology.


      Yee-haw! 🤠

      It gets fed the data from 'node-red' running on a Victron CerboGX via UDP packets over WiFi, updating as often as the data changes (approx 3 second intervals).  The LED changes colour according to state, so 'All OK' is green, 'You're getting very close to/exceeding the inverter output limit, so if you don't want to pay for grid, don't turn anything else on' is red, then blue for 'dumping power into the hot water tank'.

      It's by no means silent in operation.  I originally made a single-servo version for just PV generation and coded it so that the meter movements were gradual (a kind of PID to get from one value to the next), but apparently it 'sounded like we have cockroaches' when it made it's ticky-scratchy transitions between values, so the big version just jumps between values with a 'zzziiiiiup!' sound.

      It's actually quite reassuring to have an audible indication when the sun comes out for 5 seconds, or it starts charging at night.

      I'd also put a little radar sensor in there, with the aim of having it detect when there was nobody around, so it could stop displaying to save power/noise.  Unfortunately, that meant that every time you entered the room, all 6 needles would suddenly move at the same time, making you jump out of your skin and spill your horlicks, so we just leave it 'on' all the time now.

      There's also a basic web UI, so you can see the same data on your phone or whatever, plus it's useful for troubleshooting:


      I had fun and learned loads making it - and now it's become a family game to try to cook dinner without making the red light come on. 🙂


      Libraries used are 'ESPUI' and 'servo', plus 'arduinoOTA'.  Code, FreeCad file for the gearbox & stl file for the arrow-head needle are all in the attached zip.

      • 61 replies
    • Hi,

      I'd like to introduce myself, and my small setup. 

      I'm Bianco, a Dutch male, and my wife and I moved to Spain 2 years ago, where we live on a small piece of rural land, in Aragon. We are completely off-grid. 
      Therefore I Hired a friend two years ago to install a solar system. he and a friend installed a Voltronic Expert 24V 3Kw, with 6 320 Wp Solarpanels, and 2 Ultracell 316 Ah Gel Batteries, and I paid good money for it.  After 1 year and a bit, every thing shut down at 2 in the morning, whilst the day before was a clear and sunny day. In the months after that, it started happening more and more. Well long story short, The Batteries were fried. After contacting the "friend" He basically told me he could do nothing: A bit like: Shit happens. 

      After studying I chose to do it myself. The panels were fine, so they are still there. I bought a new Inverter, another Voltronic Axpert, 5Kw, on 48 Volts And two Pylontechs US3000C

      All connected, everything works fine. in the (hopefully near) future we'd like to add another Pylontech to the bank. Its enough for us. We have a TV, and we mostly watch during the day (if we do), and no dishwasher, washing machine or other heavy stuff, besides a Nespresso, but that is also only used during the day. The only thing that is a big consumer is the waterpump, but on a timer, controlled by Domoticz. During non-solar hours, it is off. 

      So I have a raspberry in the bedroom, wich is equipped with Domoticz, wich controls most of the lights, and a few other stuff. In the Batteryroom, there is another raspberry, wing contains Solarassistant, and monitors the Pylontechs via the Inverter.

      I'm still looking for a way to connect the Pylontechs Directly to the raspberry, I read something about the console port, but can seem to find if you can connect it at the same time as the port to the Inverter.

      So, Newbie in Solar, but I like learning about it, and helping. 

      If anybody knows something about connecting it to a raspberry, (or maybe my way of thinking is wrong) much obliged.

      Greetings from a cold (+2), but Sunny Spain.

      • 58 replies
    • When I google this or ask installers, I'm getting mixed answers.

      Some suggest that a hybrid inverter will get any extra load it needs, from the grid, if its overloaded.
      Some suggest that even a hybrid inverter will fault/cut off if overloaded.
      When I say overloaded, meaning if its a 5kw inverter and my load exceeds that.

      Or is the truth somewhere in-between, certain makes/,models of inverters can and some can't?

      Thanks for your time.
      • 28 replies
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    • Not sure which BMS the Sunsynk's use, maybe someone else can comment. I seem to remember some of the models BMS's no being compatible so there may be models with different models of BMS All the inverters using PBMS tools seem to use the Pace BMS's, PBMS sort of makes sense now, lol.   
    • Hi Chris thanks for that info like i said my manual does not give any info like that but now the other issue how do i go about to change the charging protocols of the inverter , i am using a Voltronics Axpert Max 8kw with the inverter to battery Rs485 cable to communicate between them and if the battery icon flicker then there is communication between them but now i have to switch to "user define" to adjust the battery parameters and the is no flickering icon so there is no communication between them will the battery still tel the inverter to stop charging or will the battery's BMS stop taking charge.
    • Axpert RS-232 ports are generally as follows: +-----------+-------------+----------------+----------+ | Function. | RJ-45 pin # | D9 pin #       | Function | | (PIP)     |             |(provided cable)|(Computer)| +===========+=============+================+==========+ | SGND      | 8 --------- | 5              | SGND     | | TD        | 1 --------> | 2              | RD       | | RD        | 2 <-------- | 3              | TD       | | +12V      | 7 (or 4)    | NC             |          | +-----------+-------------+----------------+----------+  
    • Those are actually MOVISTORs, a non-linear resistor used to suppress transients. Basically, it's a very high resistance until a certain voltage is reached, at which point its resistance lowers dramatically to absorb the transient. Every time that they absorb energy, they degrade slightly, until they eventually fail. AC-in being shorted is likely because of the MOV. These are well known, fairly inexpensive, and replaceable. The battery terminals being shorted is usually because the MOSFETs have failed shorted. These are much more expensive and difficult to replace, although any competent repair shop should be able to do it. When they fail, these often take out some gate driver components, which are much harder to track down. Sometimes it will also take out the IGBTs, and if so, some of their gate drive components. The MOSFETs are often lined up under the edge of a heatsink along one edge of the main board. It's hard to see them without removing the main board, though you might be able to see through some ventilation holes. Burned MOSFETs are usually very obvious: blackened parts, legs blown off, cracked or pitted epoxy. There are some capacitors that should be replaced; these protect the MOSFETs from switching transients. These capacitors drying out may have caused most of the damage, although with the MOV failure, some sort of transient due to load shedding is more likely. As for whether it is worth repairing, that's a harder call. If you can find the right repair person, it can well be. Note that many repair facilities these days don't do component level repairs; they will replace the entire main board, which has about 75% of the complexity of the inverter, and hence a big chunk of the cost. If such a repair is the only option, then it becomes much more marginal.
    • Not sure SA allows remote or local login to the Linux system. Anyone tried?
    • Two problems: 1) The battery won't be fully charged, so you'll get reduced run time. 2) The battery's BMS won't see the battery voltage as full, so it doesn't regularly reset the state of charge counter to 100%. In time, the estimated state of charge will drift from its true value, and you won't be able to trust the reported state of charge. Neither of these is particularly bad for the battery or the BMS, but they are really annoying. Lowering the charge voltages to 26.6 V will severely undercharge the battery. 26.6 V is an average of 3.325 V per cell; LFP has a rested "plateau" at about 3.330 VDC; 3.325 under load is perfectly normal for that plateau. The plateau means that the battery voltage will hardly change with SoC, from some 95% down to about 75%, where it transitions to another slightly lower plateau, all the way down to about 30% SoC. That's just the characteristics of the LFP chemistry and cell dynamics. All batteries (not just LFP) need a higher charge voltage than where they are resting to be able to overcome internal barriers, and "push" power into the battery. The difference between "voltage in" and "voltage out" causes a less than 100% energy efficiency. LFP batteries have one of the highest energy efficiencies there is, and their current efficiency (total current in versus total current out) is nearly 100%. That's why the BMS is "counting coulombs (amp·seconds) to update its SoC estimate, and why it generally gets it pretty right, if it resets to 100% at the end of every charge, and has a good estimate of the battery's State of Health (its real-life Ah capacity as a percentage of its nominal, near-new capacity).
    • Manufacturers usually guarantee tens of thousands of flash memory writes to each flash block, so tens of thousands of flash memory updates. So this is not a problem.
    • Interesting. I can't see why it would not have worked. It won't be useful on the patched versions, though, only on factory firmware version 73.78. Edit: Sorry for the late response; things have been nuts here.
    • Hi All, Many thanks for your advice and suggestions. Unfortunately the dedicated network cable is not a starter as my router is too far away from the Pi device. I had a thought that I might try to replicate the WiFi dropping out by switching off both my Router and Extender - simultaneously and separately. When the Wifi then restored itself, access to SA was instant and available. Didn't have to restart the Pi device !! So, I am not sure if that proves that the "connectivity" is not an issue..and points to the Pi Device itself..currently everything going well with the system Kalahari Meerkat - I need to get my head around what a shell script via cron can do for me and if this reboot can be done remotely (via phone preferably)
    • With the latest ESP32 firmware, the inverter can be connected to the internal network. I'm studying how to integrate it into Home Assistant. Thank you for your help. Greetings from Indonesia.
    • Hi guys I've spent hours trying to work out how to get 4 banks of 4 Pylontech US300C batteries to communicate with each other. The battery cable wiring is fine, I'm trying to understand how each bank communicates with the others. I think I've found the diagram. My question is - are these standard LAN cables and where does the indicated cable actually go to?   Many thanks!
    • Hello @kellerza,   I see there is reference in the definitions for device type. 0x0601: "High voltage three phase hybrid 20-50kw" Does this help define the sensor definitions and register positions? I see that battery 1 is reporting a temperature that is out of range. It is reporting 129 and should be 29. I will go through the dev branch and add sensors one by one until I workout which ones do not align. It looks like the settings registers do not align on the 50kW HV sunsynk unit.   3:14:21 INFO Schedules: +-----------+-----+------+--------+-----------+----------+------------+ | Key | src | Read | Report | Change by | Change % | Change any | +-----------+-----+------+--------+-----------+----------+------------+ | date_time | | 60 | 60 | | | True | | rw | | 5 | 300 | | | True | | enum | | 5 | 300 | | | True | | w | * | 5 | 30 | 80 | | | | kwh | | 300 | 300 | | | | | any_unit | | 15 | 300 | | | | | no_unit | | 15 | 300 | | | True | +-----------+-----+------+--------+-----------+----------+------------+ +-----+------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | s | Sensors | +-----+------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | 5 | pv2_power, pv1_power, pv_power, pv3_power, battery_1_power, pv4_power | | 15 | battery_1_voltage, pv4_current, pv1_current, pv2_current, pv3_voltage, | | | pv2_voltage, battery_1_soc, pv4_voltage, pv1_voltage, battery_1_current, | | | pv3_current, battery_1_temperature | | 300 | total_pv_energy, total_grid_export, total_battery_charge, total_grid_import, | | | total_battery_discharge | +-----+------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ 13:14:22 INFO Report every (inverter 1) +-----+----------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | s | Sensors | +-----+----------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | 30 | pv2_power, pv1_power, pv_power, pv3_power, battery_1_power, pv4_power | | 300 | total_pv_energy, battery_1_voltage, total_grid_export, pv4_current, pv1_current, | | | total_battery_charge, pv2_current, total_grid_import, pv3_voltage, pv2_voltage, | | | battery_1_soc, pv4_voltage, pv1_voltage, battery_1_current, pv3_current, | | | total_battery_discharge, battery_1_temperature | +-----+----------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ 13:15:41 ERROR OSError in read_sunsynkmb: timeout reading 12 registers from 672 poll_need_to_read 13:16:04 ERROR OSError in read_sunsynkmb: timeout reading 1 registers from 590; timeout reading 4 registers from 672 poll_need_to_read 13:16:11 WARNING Did not complete read, only read 12/6 13:16:45 ERROR OSError in read_sunsynkmb: timeout reading 6 registers from 586; timeout reading 12 registers from 672 poll_need_to_read 13:20:00 ERROR (8 in 5 min) OSError in read_sunsynkmb: timeout reading 6 registers from 586; timeout reading 12 registers from 672 poll_need_to_read 13:20:00 ERROR (1 in 5 min) OSError in read_sunsynkmb: timeout reading 12 registers from 672 poll_need_to_read 13:21:08 ERROR OSError in read_sunsynkmb: timeout reading 4 registers from 516; timeout reading 4 registers from 522; timeout reading 2 registers from 534; timeout reading 6 registers from 586; timeout reading 12 registers from 672 poll_need_to_read Are there any settings I should try change with the polling rates and reporting rates?
    • Check under the inverter's settings, look for the battery settings, and see if you've got any limits set there on the charge rate from grid, or a global charge limit. Otherwise look for the Li-BMS page, and see if the BMS is defining any specific charging limit. I don't see anything in the amount of battery capacity you have, or in the 0.5C-rating of the cells, that suggests that you shouldn't be able to reach 190A. I don't have a Sunsynk, but the Deye-brand, so my menu structure is a bit different.
    • Hi All, I am selling my home in Cape Town.  It has a grid tied system, prepaid meter, no feedback, all duly registered, including PR-Eng signoff, CoC, and a contract with the city I had to sign in 2019/2020. My understanding is that the contract needs to be transferred to the new owner, but don't know if this is still a requirement given the setup. My conveyencing company hasn't done this before so I am going to have to sort it out, but they would like to know the requirements.  I will have to have it re-CoC'd as the original one is now 'expired'. Anyone done this, and know what the procedure is? I'd also be interested to know if the requirements are different in a feedback scenario with a bi-directional meter. I will be calling CoCT in the morning, but any input would be appreciated.  I don't want this to hold up the sale.  
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