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Our picks
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Poly vs Mono panels - on paper vs real world?
Just-ify posted a topic in Starting In Solar? Feel free to introduce yourself,
Hi folks
So I've done a bit of reading up on the benefits of Mono over Poly panels and vice versa.
If I understand correctly, mono should give you an advantage (albeit slight) over a poly panel, however, I've tried to find evidence of this on the internet, from actual owners, and the more I read up, ironically the opposite seems to be true, that poly often outperform mono.
Does anyone have any take on that? Does it actually just come down to which one blends in better with your house? 😉
Thanks,
J-
- 0 replies
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Energy-Jason, -
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Sunsynk/Hubble AM2
Leshen posted a topic in Member Installations Showcase,
Sunsynk 8kw paired with 2 x Hubble AM2s and 16 x 540w JA Solar panels.-
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- 35 replies
Picked By
Energy-Jason, -
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Inverter and batteries installation location
Greglsh posted a topic in General Discussion,
Hi
Starting to look at maybe installing a Sunsynk inverter and maybe a Hubble or 2. Problem I have is that I don't really have anywhere to install this that is close to the DB. I could install inside a built-in cupboard in a games/ computer room. I would have to install an extractor fan or 2 from the cupboard into the ceiling to circulate the air. Does this sound okay. The distance from this cupboard to the main DB is +_ 9 meters.-
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- 20 replies
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Energy-Jason, -
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New installation.
cyber7 posted a topic in Starting In Solar? Feel free to introduce yourself,
Hi Guys
Total newbie here. I am about to get the following system installed on Monday:
8 x JA Solar 540W Mono
Sunsynk 8K Hybrid
2 x Pylontech US3000c
I am doing this through an installer as I need this done before the next big Eskom madness hike and the next lot of breakdowns by an inept parastatal. I opted to get a bigger inverter to enable me to expand.
I already have most of my lights on LED's, my geysers on solar (one tube and one panel) and also on timers. My Hob is gas, not my stove. I have brought my consumption down from 56-59kw/day to 42kw/day.
What software can I use to monitor the system?
Is there a way to automatically and remotely switch power-hungry systems?
kind regards
Aubrey-
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- 13 replies
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Energy-Jason, -
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Well Done Steve!!! Go Powerforum Store!
Energy-Jason posted a topic in Product Opinions & Reviews,
https://mybroadband.co.za/forum/threads/snypers-solar-farm.1161046/-
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- 7 replies
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Energy-Jason, -
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@Roy_ZA, 1) yes, set soc to 20% 2) on the system mode screen/ work mode 2, un-tick “ limit to load only “, this will allow solar/ battery to power your non essentials 3) in relation to the geyser where is the ct coil, before or after -
I’ve installed a SUNSYNK 8 kw inverter all worked fine with the help of people here and are greatfull I just redo the witing to make all neat in trunking. problem now when I put grud on the AC LED does not come on i do measure 220 v on the grid input als look as nithing is going through the CT COIL THE DC LED does come on an the normal LED No dault or alarm LED Im worried now? -
I think the thinking is that you'll do better on overcast days. My system (12 panels) works fantastically on a bright day. On a day like we're having today in Johannesburg it is less performant. -
I'm sorry but I don't get the obsession with maxing out on panels. We average 30 units per day in summer, 40 in winter. Slapping on more panels will give next to zero benefit. -
8kW inverter; I would have gone 9kW on panels (always better to go higher on pv power) and those palm trees are going to cut your sun off for quite a few hours in the day. -
Amazing that installers do not set the Sunsynks up correctly - wonder how many people out there are not getting the full benefit of their expensive solar systems. I would have also put up 6 of those panels on the east roof and 6 on the west roof, then a guaranteed minimum of 3.6kW per hour of power for 10 hours of the day i summer.
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I seem to recall the main DB may not be closer than 1m from a water point. This is not the main DB and not a water point. So I think we'll be OK. Will check with the electrician when he comes for the COC.
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The OP is actually using grid to charge his batteries from 8am to 7pm to 100% SOC, so will only use solar to essential loads when the sun is shining on the panels.
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Good day. How or who can confirm that the following 2 BSL Bull battery models is compatible with each other when connected in parallel. 1. B-LFP51.2V 125AH 2. B-LFP45-125E 51.2v 125AH. Any assistance would be appreciated. -
Planning on draining down to 20%. Then I've got the Geysers and stove on the non essential side. Assuming I need to set SOC to 20% instead od 80%? -
Nope, Temp sensor center of tank in the tube of the thermostat. What it is, is I circulate the hotter water from the hot tank with the cold water of the geyser. Thus the 200l 48 lifts the 150l 35 to 45 in no time. What is interesting is the when circulating the hot water 150l to the 200l thus from say 58.5 to increase the hot tank the 150l due to mass difference decrease in temp a lot faster. -
The problem has been sorted out by new drivers (PL23XX_Prolific_DriverInstaller_v207) -
I originally had the same problem with my Axpert/Synerji MKS 5K inverter. Using a RS232/USB adapter I noted that Watchpower wants to work with a COM# of its choice. If that's different from the one listed in the device manager it wont work. So I renamed that COM# in the device manager to the number that Watchpower demands - bingo it works. After renaming a COM port you must restart the computer. No problem with direct USB connection to the communication board with my W8 and W10 laptops (USB printer cable delivered with inverter). Make sure that the communication board is in working condition. By the way, the first such cable delivered was faulty. When I tried with another (spare) it worked. -
That is most likely just the position of your temperature sensors and mixing of water that cause such a quick rise. -
also, do you plan on only using 20% of your batteries, as everything is marked 80% SOC and do you have any loads on the non essential side, eg geyser
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