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    • Hi folks

      So I've done a bit of reading up on the benefits of Mono over Poly panels and vice versa. 

      If I understand correctly, mono should give you an advantage (albeit slight) over a poly panel, however, I've tried to find evidence of this on the internet, from actual owners, and the more I read up, ironically the opposite seems to be true, that poly often outperform mono.

      Does anyone have any take on that? Does it actually just come down to which one blends in better with your house? 😉 

      Thanks,
      J
      • 0 replies
    • Sunsynk 8kw paired with 2 x Hubble AM2s and 16 x 540w JA Solar panels. 
      • 35 replies
    • Hi

       

      Starting to look at maybe installing a Sunsynk inverter and maybe a Hubble or 2. Problem I have is that I don't really have anywhere to install this that is close to the DB. I could install inside a built-in cupboard in a games/ computer room. I would have to install an extractor fan or 2 from the cupboard into the ceiling to circulate the air. Does this sound okay. The distance from this cupboard to the main DB is +_ 9 meters.
      • 20 replies
    • Hi Guys

      Total newbie here.  I am about to get the following system installed on Monday:

      8 x JA Solar 540W Mono


      Sunsynk 8K Hybrid


      2 x Pylontech US3000c




      I am doing this through an installer as I need this done before the next big Eskom madness hike and the next lot of breakdowns by an inept parastatal.  I opted to get a bigger inverter to enable me to expand.

      I already have most of my lights on LED's, my geysers on solar (one tube and one panel) and also on timers.  My Hob is gas, not my stove.  I have brought my consumption down from 56-59kw/day to 42kw/day.

      What software can I use to monitor the system?


      Is there a way to automatically and remotely switch power-hungry systems?




      kind regards

      Aubrey
      • 13 replies
    • https://mybroadband.co.za/forum/threads/snypers-solar-farm.1161046/
      • 7 replies
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    • i have the same issue, it is probably moonlight or reflections from street lamps, but don't have any issues with drawing power from the batteries, send pictures of your system mode screen
    • Hi guys,    I had the following system  installed yesterday.  5kw sunsynk inverter 1 hubble am-2 10*595w ja solar panels, 2 strings of 5 panels, facing east and west.  Happy with the installation, but there seems to a phantom 2w of solar being generated at night, which I suspect is preventing the inverter from drawing from the battery at night. Has anyone experienced something similar?         
    • The OS is different on the others, so even if it works on the Deye today, it's no guarantee that it will work tomorrow.
    • OK, as I posted elsewhere I was looking out for a Black Friday deal for a "8kW System" - hate that way of thinking because I don't believe 8kWp PV, 8kW inverter and 8kWh storage is a balanced system for most users - almost certainly it will be way heavy on panels and light on storage, resulting in lots of unused energy.  I got lucky with a super deal, fully installed with COC essentially for a little less than I could buy the main components in the retail market.  In the end, my selected equipment reads like this: 14 x Canadian Solar CS3W-455MS HiKu Super High Power Mono PERC modules - that is 6.37kWp but with my roof angle of 7° I will start with a 8 or 10% drop off the bat 8kW Deye SUN-8K-SG01LP1 -US/EU Inverter 2x Shoto SDA10-48100 5.12kWh LiFePO4 batteries for 10.24kWh of storage. I think I'm still panel-heavy and storage-light but I do believe it is better balanced than a typical "8kW system". And a third battery is only a card swipe away... My installation started on Thursday, and will only be completed later today (Saturday), but here are some early pics:     Before, looking true north. Stoep roof slopes 7° to north. Pool heater tubes more or less where the panels will go.   Before, looking west. Notice palms that can only be touched at risk of permanent solitary confinement. Will keep them trimmed.   Pool heater is history   Mounting structure installed, panels being laid down   First panels being installed. Finicky work this. All treehugger ... solar geyser framed by solar panels Most panels up - looks better than the pool heater tubes!   All panels installed - looking west Another one looking east - roof looking tatty and needs some paint. Nice winter project coming up.   All panels in looking east Surprise! The laundry room where the inverter will go has drywall cladding over face brick. To offset the inverter to an effective flush mount required some nifty brackets. Mecano courtesy of Builders. Only minor mods required. The loose end was tack welded after the pic was taken.   Cutout for inverter done, brackets fitted. End day 1. Lesson for the day: Get your roof checked by a professional contractor before starting. The guys fastened some of the loose sheets but a coat of paint beforehand would have been ideal.   Inverter, AC breakers (left), DC breakers (right), fusebox (below) and batteries installed. Should have been mounted 200-300mm higher to clear the counter top I want to install - will have to make a cutout for the fuse box.   Inverter and associated hardware End day 2. Batteries comms tested. Unseen work was to connect the PV strings and bring the DC cable to the other side of the house, which required roof sheets to be lifted. Lesson for the day: do not attempt DIY for a project of this size if it is your first one - bound to cost more in time (and posisbly real money) when done. So on to final wiring and commisioning today!      
    • Will this work with brand engineered Sunsynks like Deye and Fusion as well? If not I'm tempted to go Solar Assistant to be able to make remote changes (like charging up the battery with mains when loadshedding is announced).
    • The Infinis use a different protocol, and I believe that you need to be running a different monitoring app (solarpower). I'm not sure that the inverter will appear in device manager, it depends on how they implemented it. If you are using a USB to serial adapter, it should appear under ports (in Windows 10 at least). 
    • I assume you mean for battery charging. I don't believe that this will help. The Solar Charge Controller should be able to charge the battery even with the power switch in the off position. Yes. 
    • I know nothing about Sunsynks.  When I said the 145V max models can't operate batteryless, it's not just starting or powering their electronics, they also can't or won't convert PV power to AC load power without a battery present. 
    • Hi All, So I'm quite a noob on this topic and need some assistance. I know my battery and panels are not efficient but my avg draw during the day is 400w-500w. I'm slowly upgrading.   So I started with the invertor and the battery only for a UPS backup to the house during load shedding. As I noticed my draw is mostly 500w during the day I added x2 405w Canadian panels to cover my usage in day times with enough sun.  My Goal:  - To draw solar during the day - To switch to Util at night time - To have power in my battery during load shedding.  Invertor specs: Rated Power: 5000VA/5000W DC Input: 48VDC, 117A AC Output: 230VAC, 50/60HZ, 22A AC Input is standard. Solar Charger Mode: Rated Current 80A System Voltage: 48VDC Min Solar: 40VDC Max Solar: 145VDC Settings Currently: 01 OSP: SoL 02 MCC: 20A 03 AC/IVR: UPS 05 BT: USE 11 MUC: 10A (On SBU and 20A it cycles between battery and util every 30 min at night 12: 48V 13: Full) 12 B>U: 48V (Believe this is for SOL and SBU?) 13 U>B: Full (Is this only for SBU?) 16 CSP: SNU (Will CSO be better? Or OSO? (Believe my bats are to small for OSO) Or even to use CUt? As I think solar will still supplement power draw during the day? Leaving my bats full for load shedding? 16 is n big "not sure" for me. 26 BCV: 54 27 FCV: 53.5 29 L/DC/CV: 44V 31 SPB: SbE As mentioned I'm open to any advice. I just want to be sure I don't have setting that will damage my battery more that it should at night. Or to use more power of the grid than I should.  I sorted some of the short charging cycles by changing util charge to 10A from 20A and to set 13 U>B at Full.    Thank you in advance. I have learned so much from this forum already!   
    • Bummer! So if I wanted the greatest flexibility, would I get a Sunsynk with a small spare battery, and if so, how big a battery would serve? And/or, could I use my generator to start up the inverter and then let the panels provide the power [either the Sunsynk or the SOL-I-AX-5P]?
    • Really can't go wrong with Victron
    • Earth leakage yes lots of info amd causes, if mains less so not sure then
    • The easiest and SANS compliant holder to use in a ceiling void is the type with the ready earth terminal and the metal plate that hooks on to the down light at one of the butterfly springs. Down lights is a big headache when it comes to issuing a COC because the electrical terminals need to be enclosed in a junction box. If you have the cheaply two wire holder without a earth you will most probably not get it COC’d without some sort of additional junction box and earthing intervention that can become very expensive.   Yes this is allowed but it requires some patience and steady hand skills to achieve. Another compliant way is to fit a 5A socket in the ceiling for each light and than just put a 5A cord set on each downlight. This is normally more expensive and mostly used in commercial installations but should easily pass a COC if done correct.
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