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JustinSchoeman last won the day on August 13

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  1. Just uncheck 'microinverter' and 'smartload' (if any is checked), and check 'gen charge'. If it is an auto start generator, you can also check 'gen signal', and it will signal the generator to start under the set conditions. (NOTE: gen signal and island mode signal use the same ATS port, so you can't use auto-start generators if you are using the ATS port for an earth-neutral bonding relay.)
  2. The Sunsynk inverter can supply power to all three AC ports on the inverter: 1) It can supply excess power (power not required for battery charging and load connection) to the grid port for powering non-essential items on the grid side of the inverter, and/or selling unused power back to the utility. 2) It powers the load port from solar/battery/grid as required 3) The gen port can be configured as 'SmartLoad', in which case the inverter sends power to this port according to configured rules.
  3. It should not really matter what order you turn things off. Personally, I usually turn off grid first, then inverter (green push button on the side), then PV (black switch on the side), then battery. Turning on, I do battery first, then turn inverter on, and wait for it to finish its power on process (about 1 minute), then turn on grid and PV.
  4. You are confusing issues. 18650 is a packaging. Cells are generally packaged in one of 3 formats: 1) cylindrical (of which 18650 is a specific type of cylindrical packaging) 2) pouch 3) prism Inside that packaging is a cell with a specific chemistry. Popular chemistries are: a) Lithium Ion (Li Ion) b) Lithium Polymer (LiPo) c) Lithium Nanophosphate (LiFe) d) Lithium Titanate (LTO) Generally, you can get any cell chemistry in any package type. Individual cells seldom have any built in protection circuitry, except when they are specifically
  5. 18650/pouch is just the shape. I am referring to battery chemistry. If it is a 3.7V cell, then it is some sort of LiPo chemistry, which can suffer from thermal runaway if not well monitored. Unless you know what you are doing, stick to 3.2V cells (LiFe chemistry) for DIY packs - or do a lot more research.
  6. Unfortunately, it would be difficult to tell from pictures. It would need to go for a 3rd party evaluation if this goes to arbitration or a court case. I would challenge them to: 1) indicate exactly which requirements in the installation manual you violated, and 2) provide written proof, preferably from an independent 3rd party, that the failure was caused by an external power surge.
  7. I would be very weary of using LiPo cells at all, never mind potentially mismatched cells in a large pack. The thermal characteristics of LiPo cells can result in a single cell 'stealing' all the charge and overheating. If you can't individually monitor cell temperatures (or at least clusters of adjacent cells), you will never know until it goes boom...
  8. What are the chances of all three phases surging simultaneously? Do you have large 3 phase equipment? Personally, I would look at the common point for the 3 phases - the DC bus. And if it was a DC bus failure, then it is almost certainly a product fault.
  9. IIRC it can go up to 20m. Extend with twisted twin core cable, and try to keep it away from AC lines.
  10. And what happens if the Sonoff trips for some reason while current is high (automation mistake/circuit trip/etc)? Instant bonfire. Please only use switching equipment rated for the max current and voltage of the connected equipment.
  11. Check 'Batt First', and it should work. OR Check 'Time of Use', and set the Batt settings all to 25% on that page.
  12. Deye/Sunsynk has appointed an agent in South Africa, so there is direct factory support, if the retailer/installer is no longer available or not cooperative. I only know of one warranty claim, and that was handled on the next business day.
  13. 300A is a lot of current. You need to make sure of your batteries and cables. 0.003 Ohm is about the maximum total resistance in all wires and connectors, before you start seeing low voltage trips. This is also why most 3kW+ inverters are 24V or 48V.
  14. Are you sure your battery bank/wiring can handle 300A continuous draw? You may well find that that is your real limiting factor.
  15. This is my solution: https://powerforum.co.za/topic/7109-6kwh-of-cheap-storage-why-does-no-one-use-it/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-86333 I have since found out that the Geyserwise Senior has an RS485 input, which should allow for simple integration with a home automation setup (but check with Geyserwise first if they will actually release the protocol). There are also a bunch of other threads around on using Sonoffs or other home automation devices to do it.
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