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JustinSchoeman

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JustinSchoeman last won the day on August 13 2020

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  1. I believe https://lithiumbatteriessa.co.za have a Daly Smart BMS with customised firmware that can communicate with Deye/Sunsynk. Not sure if they can parallel though. Maybe contact them and find out?
  2. Correct. But one thing I forgot - you must check 'Use Timer' as well. If not checked, then battery is only used when grid is not available (and charging is according to the battery configuration pages only). No need to restart the inverter - settings are applied immediately.
  3. 1) Check 'Priority Load' - this will direct solar energy to first power the load, with any excess used to charge the battery. 2) Set time of use settings (you can make them all the same). Set SOC/V to your minimum acceptable battery charge. If battery charge is above this, additional load will come from batteries. When battery charge is lower than SOC, then load will be powered by grid. If you check 'Grid' for a time slot, then the battery will also charge to that SOC from grid in that time window.
  4. There are a number of BMSs which are compatible - but they are not generally sold on the DIY market. Mostly wholesale to manufacturers. The ones that are available separately tend to be ludicrously expensive. The 'cheapies' generally used on the DIY market are intended for electric bikes/scooters/other vehicles, so they don't really bother with inverter comms.
  5. There is a guy on the other forum who did something similar, except he heats the 'old' geyser with excess solar once his battery is charged. I am not sure how much ambient heating will get you, as geysers tend to be fairly well insulated.
  6. You can read *everything* from the inverter... I read and use, time, inverter output power, load output power, battery state of charge, battery current, pv voltage and pv power, and then have a big look up table to determine target temperature based on all of those. I did contemplate using proportional control (Google PV diverters). It would make life a bit easier, but I don't like the idea of putting such a large non-linear load on the inverter.
  7. I just use a bang-bang controller. If PV voltage is above 'x', turn on the geyser for 10 seconds. Check PV output and battery draw, then leave it on/turn it off based on time of day and geyser temp. This is the logic I use: https://github.com/justinschoeman/ModbusThermostat/blob/master/SunsynkController/config.h Has worked perfectly for me for the past 6 months.
  8. Ewww. That does not look like a DC rated isolator. If it is ever switched off under load, it will just arc until enough burns away to break the loop... Does not explain the heat though. Probably bad connections and/or too thin wire.
  9. It should be pure sine wave... Damaged output drivers or output filter could provide a really nasty waveform.
  10. Fridge motors are usually quite robust. Hard to cook them with start up/change over spikes. I would suspect a waveform issue on the inverter. Easy to test if you have the right equipment, impossible if you don't...
  11. I uploaded the modbus protocol document here: You will need to find a suitable modbus library for your platform to send the requests, and process the responses.
  12. How are you sending modbus requests? If the TX light is not blinking, then the request is not being sent.
  13. It can run without batteries, but: 1) it can not run in parallel 2) you should not connect anything to the load/gen inputs
  14. You should be able to use my Arduino project pretty much as-is. Grab your favorite Arduino + a CAN shield (MCP2515 based for direct compatibility) + a RS485 shield.
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