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Kalahari Meerkat

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Kalahari Meerkat last won the day on March 14

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  1. ok, there's the limit, the 30A charging unit 3 X 120W = 360W / 12V (more like 14V for charging) = close to 30A, so the extra panels wouldn't do much most of the time, except when things are cloudy, then they would add some extra power.
  2. based on your location I would consider adding some wind turbine or two, which may reduce the battery capacity requirements some... As for which supplier, a tough nut, they all use some LiFePO4 cells made in outer Mongolia or thereabouts and none will presumably give you the honest low down on the actual cells used. What ideally should the maximum sustained discharge rate be for the cells, for instance, in order to still get maybe 5000 cycles out of them... etc. I will be looking at bringing in some LTO cells in the future and make up my own battery bank, but 1st will have to find a
  3. Ok, the troughs in the linked document are probably 3m edge to edge and presumably the temperature zones where these are being deployed are somewhat cooler climate zones, I'm guessing... (only briefly looked at this, didn't really read anything). The troughs on the installation at Bokpoort, are less than 0.5m edge to edge and the piping in the focal point was probably not more than 50mm diameter, all in stainless steel, I think... The obvious question is, to what contortions do you have to go to achieve higher temperatures? and is the outcome worth it? Even the steam turbine will hav
  4. Major filtering and then distilling? maybe, not sure how much water would be lost in the process and not sure how big an affair this would be to construct, the distilling should be driven by sunlight, assuming there's enough sunshine to do this...
  5. Where have you read this and where does one of these run? Here they run horizontal piping in the focal point of long parabolic reflectors and melt salt, that's around the 500degC mark, then running water piping through the molten salt storage container, creates the steam required. See Bokpoort down the drag from here...
  6. Panels operate on voltage, so you'd have to try and match the voltages, if your 120W panels, let's say, produce maximum smoke at 16V (Vmp) and you are running them in parallel and lets also assume the 180W panels run at the same Voltage, but more current at Vmp, then you can just parallel them up and voila, you should at best be able to extract ( 3 X 120W + 2 X 180W) out of that lot... but I suspect you may not have the same Vmp's between the 120W and 180W panels and thus my explanation would be not applicable... the point being that Voltage is what matters, if you run your 120W panels in seri
  7. Ok, people, my vote is for no registration or licensing required, unless you feed into the grid, if all you are doing is supplementing commercial power with your own, or even run off the grid, it should have no requirements. As for being a producer of power... the problem is, that if you need to feed into the grid, the line voltage will rise and this, if everyone in your neighbourhood wants to do this, can end up with 300V on a 220V circuit, which some equipment may not be all that happy with, then a cloud comes over/the wind stops and all the power being produced disappears and the utili
  8. As the nick implies, thank dog I'm very far away from Jhb/Pta or as some here refer to it as Sodom and Gomorrah so can't help you with suggestions on who may be able to sort you out, but maybe look at https://lithiumbatteriessa.co.za/ they seem to be in your neck of the woods and do cater for DIY battery setups...
  9. I'd say if you are running Lithium cells without a BMS, thus without balancing and over and under voltage protection (also over current protection) you obviously like to play with live munitions that can inexplicably go boom in your face... Without a BMS it is quite likely that you have already damaged some if not all of the cells in your battery, you can try and get a BMS and put it on your cells, the BMS should also have an interface that will communicate with the inverter.
  10. We had a friend in Cape Town area, the old man, had arthritis and he ran the water over his garage roof, I can't recall whether he had a coil of 40mm PVC pipe up there, I guess probably, all I know is, the pool was probably 8m X 2.5m by shallow on the one end and probably close to 2m on the deep end and I recall us visiting one Cape Town winter, where it was mostly cloudy, cold & raining on and off and the pool had a whispy layer of fog over it and us kids, probably 12 years old, swam and it felt like a warm bath, considering the weather it was flippin great
  11. @Koppies Wattage = Voltage X Current aka W=V*A, so, putting your panels in series, increases the Voltage and keeps the current the same (no need to increase conductor size, since current remains the same) the wattage per panel remains, but is obviously additive. It is rare to see the panels producing at their rated power, when the panels are cool/cold, they will produce higher power, but, of course, once they are in sunlight, they will warm up and power production will drop a bit from their maximum.
  12. If I were you, I'd just series up all the panels, for less than 320V and presumably their OC Voltage will be less than 50V each, ten you're ok in terms of Voltage limits and don't need excessive conductor diameter, since you'd be running less than 10A between the 8 series panels and the inverter... The power produced will be 8 X the panel rating, app. so if, lets say one panel is able to produce 260W, ten the 8 series panel string will combine to produce 8 * 260W, or 2080W app. it should be slightly more but rarely will you see the panels produce rated power.
  13. I don't think firmware should do that, after all, the label does not mention 12V at all, thus I'd think the unit may have a fault, but I don't know this unit at all, so I could be wrong. Looking at the serial number 202010.... might indicate that the unit is barely or less than a year old, so hopefully it still is under guarantee and the supplier can help resolve the issue.
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