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Kalahari Meerkat

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Everything posted by Kalahari Meerkat

  1. You mean lack of data, don't you? Here for the lecture of common sense 101... If a company doesn't have any address details on their website, nor any fixed line telephone numbers, it probably is a dodgy outfit. (Don't wanna be found after fleecing the mark) If a company doesn't have *ANY* details other than Gauteng in their domain registration, no email address, no nothing, but REDACTED... time to smell a rat... if it was a private person's domain, maybe you don't want your personal details, quite so accessible, but if it is a Company, then the telephone number, email address and physical or postal address should appear in your domain registration details. There are no privacy concerns/implications for a company, except if its a dodgy company... /end of common sense 101 lecture... You are welcome to attempt to enlighten/edumacate me, if you feel my above ideas are wrong, until someone comes up with something that convinces me that a company has a valid reason to hide and not even publish their address, I believe this outfit is most likely one outfit to be avoided... as for the near past, since the domain has only existed since February this year, it certainly would only be the very near past (6 months, in fact) that someone might have had interaction with them.
  2. When everything is REDACTED... I think the only reason you may not smell anything is the Crony Virus, maybe? [email protected]:~# whois solarpower21stcentury.co.za Domain Name: solarpower21stcentury.co.za Registry Domain ID: DOM_3OV2G-CO.ZA Registrar WHOIS Server: Registrar URL: www.registerdomain.co.za Updated Date: 2021-02-05T18:20:31Z Creation Date: 2021-02-05T18:19:45Z Registry Expiry Date: 2022-02-05T18:19:45Z Registrar Registration Expiration Date: 2022-02-05T18:19:45Z Registrar: Register Domain SA Registrar Abuse Contact Email: [email protected] Registrar Abuse Contact Phone: +27.212001480 Reseller: Domain Status: ok https://icann.org/epp#ok Registry Registrant ID: REDACTED Registrant Name: REDACTED Registrant Organization: Registrant Street: REDACTED Registrant City: REDACTED Registrant State/Province: Gauteng Registrant Postal Code: REDACTED Registrant Country: ZA Registrant Phone: REDACTED Registrant Phone Ext: REDACTED Registrant Fax: REDACTED Registrant Fax Ext: REDACTED Registrant Email: Please query the RDDS service of the Registrar of Record identified in this output for information on how to contact the Registrant, Admin or Tech contacts of the domain name. Registry Admin ID: REDACTED Admin Name: REDACTED Admin Organization: REDACTED Admin Street: REDACTED Admin City: REDACTED Admin State/Province: REDACTED Admin Postal Code: REDACTED Admin Country: REDACTED Admin Phone: REDACTED Admin Phone Ext: REDACTED Admin Fax: REDACTED Admin Fax Ext: REDACTED Admin Email: Please query the RDDS service of the Registrar of Record identified in this output for information on how to contact the Registrant, Admin or Tech contacts of the domain name. Registry Tech ID: REDACTED Tech Name: REDACTED Tech Organization: REDACTED Tech Street: REDACTED Tech City: REDACTED Tech State/Province: REDACTED Tech Postal Code: REDACTED Tech Country: REDACTED Tech Phone: REDACTED Tech Phone Ext: REDACTED Tech Fax: REDACTED Tech Fax Ext: REDACTED Tech Email: Please query the RDDS service of the Registrar of Record identified in this output for information on how to contact the Registrant, Admin or Tech contacts of the domain name. Registry Billing ID: REDACTED Billing Name: REDACTED Billing Organization: REDACTED Billing Street: REDACTED Billing City: REDACTED Billing State/Province: REDACTED Billing Postal Code: REDACTED Billing Country: REDACTED Billing Phone: REDACTED Billing Phone Ext: REDACTED Billing Fax: REDACTED Billing Fax Ext: REDACTED Billing Email: Please query the RDDS service of the Registrar of Record identified in this output for information on how to contact the Registrant, Admin or Tech contacts of the domain name. Name Server: ns3.registerdomain.co.za Name Server: ns4.registerdomain.co.za DNSSEC: unsigned ZACR Complaint/s Procedure and Form: https://registry.net.za/content.php?gen=1&contentid=226 >>> Last update of WHOIS database: 2021-08-26T11:40:36Z <<< For more information on Whois status codes, please visit https://icann.org/epp # # The use of this Whois facility is subject to the following terms and # conditions. https://registry.net.za/whois_terms # Copyright (c) ZACR 1995-2021
  3. In an announcement Wednesday, Scottish engineering firm Orbital Marine Power explained how its 2 megawatt O2 turbine had been anchored in a body of water called the Fall of Warness, with a subsea cable linking it to a local electricity network on land. It's expected that the turbine, which is 74 meters long, will "operate in the waters off Orkney for the next 15 years," the company said, and have "the capacity to meet the annual electricity demand of around 2,000 UK homes."
  4. funny thing, that, they cut us off last June & I scrambled to put in the solar end + an extension lead to the neighbour (150m worth of cable...) We used to pay R 3k5 to R 4k a month, now, nada... actually still paying them off what I owe them at R 100.00 per month, maybe another 12 months and we should be square, since they want to stuff around, for the most part, I am supplying the neighbour a lot more than what we're consuming, only the last 3 weeks or so, has this turned around by us consuming, maybe from 0 to 5kW per day more than we're feeding back to the neighbour... that should turn around again latest by mid August, I'd imagine when the neighbour will get anything from 5 to 10kW fed from our end, more than we'd consume from his end. Keimoes is on the western side, we're on the other side, closer to Grootdrink, half way, approximately between Groblershoop and Upington, so up-river from your perspective. As for rain, let's see, if my thinking is correct, the rains come with the start of the solar cycle '09-10 was fairly wet, '10-11 was 500mm+ rain here and '11-12 also well above normal, normal here is supposed to be around 160 to 180mm for the rainy season. Last rainy season we had 270mm here, above normal and the beginning of the new solar cycle (you know, sunspots & better shortwave radio propagation, possibly...). 2 or 3 seasons ago, bottom of the solar cycle (mostly 0 sunspots) we had 38mm rain for the season! I do expect the upcoming rainy season to be better than the last, maybe not 500mm, but possibly approaching it, lets see, we're only here since end of '08, so I don't have enough historical data. A solar cycle is around 11 years times 2, every 11 years you get somewhat of a peak, the polarisation of the sunspots inverts, indicating the start of a new cycle, hence the 2 times 11 years app. since the 2nd time around the polarisation is back to the starting polarisation.
  5. My HDMI switch is just video, but apparently there are KVM switches that do HDMI & USB, then you'd only need one HDMI to VGA converter on the output of the KVM to your monitor, I'd imagine...
  6. @Bobster, should have quoted you... Don't have a KVM switch, but with a HDMI switch (3 sources, one display) the PI4 also didn't work correctly, get rid of switch, all good... but this is also a HDMI/mDP/DP display, I'm guessing with the VGA, there isn't enough feedback to the PI4 to enable it to select the right video mode, from the switch, there is a possible hard setting you can force in the /boot/config.txt
  7. Ok, a "Swamp cooler", humidifies the house and cools things down a bit... but hey, this last rainy season here in the valley, we had fairly high humidity at times and upcoming season I expect record rains for the Kalahari and Namibia/Botswana, whether that will comes to pass, we shall see, but if it does, the Swamp cooler will probably not do too much good at times, since the baseline humidity will be likely higher than normal by a healthy margin. Are you upriver or downriver from Upt and which side of the river? Here at onder Gariep with just shy of 5kW's worth of panels, we run the dishwasher during the day, cook with gas, but during the day will also run an induction cooker during daylight, at times etc. no batteries to speak of as yet and if no large-ish consumers are running, the load is also from 300W to 700W. Hot water is by way of evacuated glass tube hot water cylinder. As for AC, don't have, might consider it in the future, but since we're here and surviving the climate since the end of 2008, we've sort of climatised and what the old farmers used to do, is drag the bed out to the porch at the end of November and leave it there until sometime in March next year... best air conditioning to be had, ok, Scorpions, Geel-slang etc. all something to keep in mind, but hey, you're closer to nature and not running up any sort of bill for air conditioning...
  8. Care to give me/us some details on your evaporative cooler? What make? How large? What's the claimed/specced cooling capacity and what water are you using? (Kanaal water? would require some serious filtering etc.) and finally... What is the power consumption of this cooler? (and I suppose does it cool the whole house or only your bedroom?)
  9. Not sure what exactly you are asking, but if I understand the question, you are worried about the EM fields surrounding the wind turbines in the north sea, you are so far away from them, that you need not worry, but maybe worry slightly whenever you drive underneath some high tension lines, these, being a lot closer and more than likely carrying more power are likely more of a potential problem... just a thought, but I'm guessing I misunderstood your question. In a motor/alternator, I'd think the EM field is fairly well contained, more so than in a transmission line, I'd guess. Now if you'd care to visit your local steel smelter, you know, *LARGE* induction heater & all, you can really go to town on a serious EM field and have your analog watch kiss the world goodbye...
  10. Don't know the unit, but if its anything like this unit, then the specs on the MPPT end would require rewiring for Voltage, rather than Current, methinks... Max PV Array VOC: 500V DC MPPT Range @ Operating Voltage: 90 ~ 450V DC
  11. I guess that includes me... yes, if Voc is, lets call it 50V/panel and 7 in series, your Voc at around 350V would be well within specs for the MPPT input of your inverter, in fact you could do 9 panels in series, 450V and that should be ok, with a few Volts to spare, maybe go for 8 in series times 2 seperate strings into your inverter, this keeps the current per string lower and thus the cabling sizes a bit more in check. But your setup should also be ok, as for this would be on the battery end and not on the MPPT input side... and as for nope, you'd need to see Vmp in reality, bu that should be close to 3185W/10.92A (assuming that's Imp as in Amps at max power), then the end result should 7 panels worth of Voltage... thus 3185/10.92=291.667V and this divide by the 7 panels is 291.667/7=41.667V app. per panel at maximum power...
  12. Ok, you are further north than I am, if Centurion is accurate, here we are @95degrees and 50km, from Upington. Are your tubes in shadow for part of the day? This time of year you guys shouldn't have too many clouds and being further north than what I am, I would think you should be able to get a more than comfortable temperature out of the setup, assuming trees don't spoil the suns path to the tubes... mine is actually facing between 15 and 20 degrees real, thus somewhat east of due north. We can not expect to still have warm water on the morning, at 1.2degC this morning, I would have been surprised, but as it is not even ice cubes came out of the pipes this morning here.
  13. What exactly is this? We have a 100 or 150 liter (not 100% sure of the size) cylinder with 12 glass evacuated tubes attached for water heating, at this time of year, I can get a hot shower, at times, even need to add some cold water, in summer, it is way too hot (needs an afdakkie), but, this is off gravity fed, low pressure water system, no municipal water and water is fed from a 1000 liter Jojo tank on a 6 or 7m stand... (water cylinder says Afropulse 483 on the side...)
  14. The Voltage is the relevant one here, as long as the Voltage of the panels stay within the limits of the inverter, all should be fine, since the inverter will limit the current drawn.
  15. RS485 is supposed to be able to run for *LARGE* distances, so I'd suggest, run a single twisted pair of RS485 to the adapter at the computer....
  16. I still reckon you should consider homebrewing, look at this one for inspiration/using that circuit/design to construct your own, it would be a lot less costly than having to purchase one and I'm willing to bet that the one you've linked to contains pretty much Alistairs circuit from 2000.
  17. I'm not aware of anything of value that can be bought, you'd have to homebrew a unit and yes, one would probably keep it connected, if the batteries are in good condition the desulfator would not consume just about any power and do not much, but whilst the batteries need it, it would produce measurable pulses to help the batteries get in better shape again and still not consume much power.
  18. The problem is the inverter will also consume, some run at approaching 100Wh, then over 10hours of darkness, that will be an easy 1kWh gone... so, you'd need to see what the inverter draws when no load is on it, from the batteries, to see how much this will drain the batteries...
  19. If its a pressurised system, then you could, I'd imagine mount the tube system elsewhere, even ground mounted, assuming you have space and have a spot, not too far away that gets sun all day... maybe... I have my solar panels ground mounted, roof mounting would have limted the production... my neighbour who put up panels a week or two after me, has been cutting down more and more trees around his house, since his roof mounting move was a stupid move, in my eyes, he has plenty of space (11 Ha in total) and could have put the panels where he could still have the shade from the trees without it impacting his solar panels.... c'est la vie...
  20. Ok, then you are looking at gravity fed from a Jo-jo tank? that would be low pressure, unless you're wasting energy running a pump to pressurised the household water.... so the low pressure evacuated glass tubes setup cost a whole lot less than you seem to indicated and that would be the suggested route with maybe a low-ish (1kW) power electric element in the cylinder as add-on, to help out when the water's a tad on the chilly end... but basically the evacuated tube setup works pretty well and when the sun doesn't shine the solar panels generating electron flow wouldn''t do too much either to help heat up the water... just my thoughts on the matter, the evacuated tube low pressure setup is probably half of what you're stating... looking at this one for R 7k7... so around 1k7R X 2 more than the normal one, you're looking at, that's R 3400.00 more for the two solar HWC vs the convential...
  21. Those are reasonable numbers, I reckon and 70% or around 70Amperes in 3 or so hours, would require less than 30Amperes from the charge end, can your charge controller provide, let's say 30A to charge the battery with? You'd need around 400-odd W on the solar panel end to make this work.
  22. Yes, the panel will feed whatever its Voltage is to the charge controller/inverter/whatever you are using to charge your batteries with and this unit would then, if its an MPPT do a DC to DC conversion from the voltage supplied by the panel to the correct voltage to charge the battery, but this conversion should occur with fairly low losses, give you more current (Amps) on the battery side, than what the solar side is presenting. Having written this, please ensure that the panels are not generating a higher voltage than what the charge controller can manage, basically a lot of folks around here are running their houses off 5kW and larger inverters, which can happily use 200 even 300V or higher at relatively low current, 8 or 9Amperes to charge their 48V battery banks and generate 220V otherwise form the excess power produced by the solar panels, basically you need to know how many Volt the charge controller can utilise on the input side and ensure that you do not exceed this, else the magic smoke may come out
  23. You should not and can not charge the battery at a higher Voltage than specified by the manufacturer, for a 12V replacement, which is what you battery is, most likely, 14.4V should be the maximum Voltage you should ever try to charge at. The time it takes to charge would then be determined by the current (Amperes) that is provided to the battery. If the max charge rate is 0.5C then 50A is it and for longer life expectanct try 0.3C or 30A, which would then be under 4 hours still to recharge from totally flat, which you hopefully won't be doing... how fast do you need to recharge and how deep do you discharge the battery?
  24. NMC, not NMO, sorry, either way, these are the less expensive cells, mostly used by the vehicular industry, but not ideally maximised for long life in stationary setups, like most of us would want energy storage for, for now anyway. I suppose maybe one should wait and see what Aluminium-Ion batteries end up doing life/energy density/cost wise....
  25. I actually was contemplating getting one of the Hubbles to start the battery side off here, but since the cells are NMO, I shall have to re-think what I will be looking at, I really still like the LTO idea, but I need to figure out whether the inverter could manage the voltage range of the LTO's... 20 in series, charge at 2.8V ea, that would be 56V , discharge down to app, 1.9V, that's 38V... not sure the inverter would still be able to function at this low a DC battery voltage... if we make it 22 Cells, that would be 62V app. down to 42V app. time to kick tech support about the range of battery voltages the Sunsynk would be able to live with, I guess, else LiFePO4's would have to do the trick X 16 in series...
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