Kalahari Meerkat

WTF? really? ships stop moving on weekends?

If you're on good footing with the neighbour across the road, maybe ask him, for testing purposes to turn off his inverter, for 10 minutes while you and him check whether this quietens your affected devices.... if it does, the supplier of his inverter would probably have to get involved...

Tin roof? Earthed? are the Solar panels on the roof as well? A pretty much direct strike will generally cause a lot of damage... SPD's are great for near strikes, just a bit slow, I'd say for a direct strike... and presumably they did trip? just a bit retroactively... maybe.
On another thread I pretty much stated that disconnecting the solar panels from the system during high thunder & lightning likelyhood is probably the best option, to keep damage to a minimum or even avoid it...
Putting up a lightning rod, a few meters away from the house with a height of three times the peak of the houses height might also be a good way to try and minimise the possibility of of picking up damage...
That one might also be cooked, if the batteries got it then the DC side on the low voltage end got some spare tension it wasn't prepared or rated for...
Lightning is a bastard, that damage may even be lurking in the items that seem to be undamaged at the moment, so your inverter could stop functioning correctly in 3 months time for no explainable reason, other than, "yes, three months ago we had a lightning strike..."
Anyway, good luck to you, hope you don't have any further damage coming out the woodwork...

We're using a 100l 12 Evacuated glass tube HWC here, no heating element or power otherwise... water is low pressure, fed from a Jojo tank, between 6 & 8m off the deck/ 4 to 6m above the HWC, no pumps or anything requiring electrons for this lot to work is in use... we do pump water into the Jojo tank two or three times a week, though, but the house is all low pressure & working perfectly...
So, you should consider an evacuated glass tube setup which you can augment by firing the heating element if the water isn't hot enough, with some home automation and sensors here and there you should be able to automate this mostly, I'd think... the most effective water heating is the direct heating, like with the evacuated tubes, going PV -> electrons -> element is probably only half as effective as the direct heating end...
Once or twice in winter the hot water was not quite as hot as I wold have liked it to be, I will probably look at adding in a donkey in the future, to turn warm water into hot water as it flows to the shower, by burning some wood in the donkey... only run through heating, not wanting to heat 100+l of water, after all, a complete shower is probably not more than 20l of water and no, I don't get wet, stop the water soap up and wash, then turn on water again... low pressure makes the consumption much more frugal...

This sounds suspect... I'd imagine if it there is continual water coming out of the overflow, then the pressure relief valve may not be closing properly, possibly due to dirt preventing it from closing, an element can't really be the cause for water overflowing... but let me add a disclaimer, I ain't no plumber... :-)

So there you seem to have the recommendation...
Charge/absorb 57.6V
Float 54V
and I would not go as low as 44 or even 42V... let's see, assuming the cells are still balanced at the bottom (not all that likely) that would be 2.75V or 2.625V per cell... and potentially quite a bit lower, you are hurting the cells with this... I would say 2.9V or 3V per cell as cutoff is probably a good number to aim for... 46.4V or better yet... 48V...
 
back to charge/absorb, the 57.6V is actually, again assuming perfectly balanced cells, 3.6V per cell which is the absolute maximum recommended Voltage for LiFePO4's, I'd say, 3.5 or better yet 3.45V per cell is treating them more kindly for a longer (happier :-)) life... thus 56V or better yet, 55.2V charge/absorb, the float of 54V is 3.375V per cell and should be fine...
 

Since its LiFePO4, I'd say don't worry, but if you *really* want a lower SOC and treat the battery with kid gloves, then don't use inverter to batttery comms, set up the battery as user defined and since I'm guessing its a 16S battery, let's then set the bulk and absorbption Voltages to 3.45V, instead of the presumably 3.6V per cell. Thus 16 X 3.45V for bulk and absorption, which is 55.2V this will not quite get you to the 80% you're looking for, with LiFePO4's, I think it may be next to impossible to get there, unless you have a BMS which does coulomb counting and will let you, based on this count, limit the charge into the cells...

When? off solar? I don't think you can limit the solar charge to battery when excess solar is available... if your battery is LiFePO4 chemistry, then you should not worry too much, if you are using Cobalt base NMC Lithium or NCA Lithium, then the only suggestion I'd have is to set the battery to user defined and lower the Voltages and thus the SOC % level...

That may be the easiest way to get off the grid in the city... :-)

I think warning sign is no actual physical shop, address given under "contact us" seems dodgy at best and of course, no contact number cell or otherwise... avoid like the plague is my suggestion... why would some outfit in Kuruman be able to better pricing, but not have any way of contacting them other than via a web form or an email address tied to a domain just about one month old... registered in Australia, yup, that penal colony...
Domain Name: SOLARSHOPZA.COM
Registry Domain ID: 2955530140_DOMAIN_COM-VRSN
Registrar WHOIS Server: whois.webcentralgroup.com.au
Registrar URL: http://www.melbourneit.com.au
Updated Date: 2025-02-01T08:31:18Z
Creation Date: 2025-02-01T08:31:18Z
Registry Expiry Date: 2026-02-01T08:31:18Z
Registrar: Netregistry Wholesale Pty Ltd

I think warning sign is no actual physical shop, address given under "contact us" seems dodgy at best and of course, no contact number cell or otherwise... avoid like the plague is my suggestion... why would some outfit in Kuruman be able to better pricing, but not have any way of contacting them other than via a web form or an email address tied to a domain just about one month old... registered in Australia, yup, that penal colony...
Domain Name: SOLARSHOPZA.COM
Registry Domain ID: 2955530140_DOMAIN_COM-VRSN
Registrar WHOIS Server: whois.webcentralgroup.com.au
Registrar URL: http://www.melbourneit.com.au
Updated Date: 2025-02-01T08:31:18Z
Creation Date: 2025-02-01T08:31:18Z
Registry Expiry Date: 2026-02-01T08:31:18Z
Registrar: Netregistry Wholesale Pty Ltd

I think warning sign is no actual physical shop, address given under "contact us" seems dodgy at best and of course, no contact number cell or otherwise... avoid like the plague is my suggestion... why would some outfit in Kuruman be able to better pricing, but not have any way of contacting them other than via a web form or an email address tied to a domain just about one month old... registered in Australia, yup, that penal colony...
Domain Name: SOLARSHOPZA.COM
Registry Domain ID: 2955530140_DOMAIN_COM-VRSN
Registrar WHOIS Server: whois.webcentralgroup.com.au
Registrar URL: http://www.melbourneit.com.au
Updated Date: 2025-02-01T08:31:18Z
Creation Date: 2025-02-01T08:31:18Z
Registry Expiry Date: 2026-02-01T08:31:18Z
Registrar: Netregistry Wholesale Pty Ltd

I think warning sign is no actual physical shop, address given under "contact us" seems dodgy at best and of course, no contact number cell or otherwise... avoid like the plague is my suggestion... why would some outfit in Kuruman be able to better pricing, but not have any way of contacting them other than via a web form or an email address tied to a domain just about one month old... registered in Australia, yup, that penal colony...
Domain Name: SOLARSHOPZA.COM
Registry Domain ID: 2955530140_DOMAIN_COM-VRSN
Registrar WHOIS Server: whois.webcentralgroup.com.au
Registrar URL: http://www.melbourneit.com.au
Updated Date: 2025-02-01T08:31:18Z
Creation Date: 2025-02-01T08:31:18Z
Registry Expiry Date: 2026-02-01T08:31:18Z
Registrar: Netregistry Wholesale Pty Ltd

Sorry wrong, they only need to have to same amount of panels in series each and thus same Voltage levels...
correct

I reckon the cost of HV batteries make them a less likely candidate for the average home user, maybe @openmind is a well above average home user with lots more dosh to spend :-) depending on your power peak consumption etc. looking at a HV system may well be worthwhile, I'll stick to my 51.2V nominal battery Voltage setup, thank you very much (with 30-odd kWh usable power on tap)...

Das Problem scheint gelöst zu sein. Es war die Firmware.
Ich bin zufällig auf einen Beitrag gestoßen in dem der User schrieb das nach einem Firmware Update der LOAD Ausgang keine Spannung hatte.
Daraufhin habe ich eine Firmware aus einem deutschen Forum (Akkudoktor.de) getestet.
Nach dem Update konnte ich Spannung messen. Halleluja...😎
Morgen werde ich umschalten, testen und berichten.
Die Daten dazu, also was ich gemacht habe etc. werde ich morgen hier niederschreiben.

ist richtig, wenn in Insel modus, dan wird dem "Grid" port, kein Strohm gegeben...
weiss ich nicht, habe einen 5kW Sunsynk in Insel modus, benutze Load und Aux, kann mich nicht entsinnen das ich etwas anderes konfigurieren musste
bei mir glaube ich auch nicht...
Solarzellen ankoppeln, Batterie ankoppeln, inverter anschalten und es muesste funtzen...

I am assuming its two of these? Yes?/No?
Either way, looking at the specs, 54,5V is not over voltage territory, so most likely is a cell going over the BMS' voltage limit, presumably 3.600V and this is giving you the error, this is usually tied to the BMS not being able to balance the cells with enough current to keep things in check. Since this is happening when the batteries are for all intents and purposes full, I'd consider 99.9% and 99.99% full, maybe talk to the supplier and see whether there is a firmware upgrade that addresses this issue or a known problem where some of the connections between the cell are dubious and need re-tightening, maybe...
Briefly back to 54.5V if calc (command line) isn't messing up, that would be 3.40625V per cell for a 16S battery, which these seem to be, so far from over voltage, unless the cells are really badly balanced...

according to this brochure, yes...

maybe not quite as bad... if its 1/2" pipe, this lot may be an option at R 22.77 for 1.8m it sounds more reasonable than you're thinking but not exactly dirt cheap either, but instead of R 5k, around R 640.00 which may be easier to swallow...

Wrong... here we have 5kW inverter, 38kWh battery and 4.7kWp solar...
If you do not want to "manage" your energy usage, in other words, run the dishwasher during sunshine/solar production hours, for instance and don't care about serializing energy use, in other words, run into the kitchen, turn on the oven, the kettle and the microwave all at once, then yes, and I dare say, the 30kW inverter may not be enough, but if you have a brain, engage it before just blindly flipping switches, then, like us, you will just about never reach the 5kW limit of the inverter, we regularly peak up to 4kW, never for very long and have yet to trip the inverter due to drawing too much energy, because we're running too many high consumers at the same time...
Been off-grid since 2020 with an extension lead from the neighbour initially... proper off grid since 2023 and feeding the extension lead to the neighbour, who is now also off-grid.

Why not have a contactor/relay that feeds power to the HWC/geyser, and let the contactor or relay be powered from the commercial supply side... as soon as commercial supply side dies, the relay drops and disconnects the HWC...
The good point of doing it this way, is, it cannot fail and there is no reliance on inverter/solar assistand/home assistant or anything else, except the grid being there or not...

You probably should have an earth leakage trip switch after the inverter, as well, but otherwise this setup should be ok.

Why not have a contactor/relay that feeds power to the HWC/geyser, and let the contactor or relay be powered from the commercial supply side... as soon as commercial supply side dies, the relay drops and disconnects the HWC...
The good point of doing it this way, is, it cannot fail and there is no reliance on inverter/solar assistand/home assistant or anything else, except the grid being there or not...

I don't think this would be the case, unless the wind turbine can cause the charge Voltage to the batteries to go up, which it can not, the cells would not accept more charge, once the BMS; preset cell Voltage has been reached and the cells have saturated at this Voltage level...
this may be a possible option... I would think the possible problem with excess power and no consumer use is that the Voltage, AC side could climb and this could cause damage to the Inverters as well as other AC appliances, depending on how high this Voltage rise may be...like the above comments, hot water is always useful and if your HWC is LARGE enough you can dump excess energy in there, problem would be once the HWC is up to 90degC or so and you still have loads of excess energy...
So, maybe a combination of RS485/Modbus control via HomeAssistant and dumping energy into water heating may be the best way of trying to keep things at an even keel...
You probably would have to stop the turbine once battery full and turbine can't dump enough into HWC and service loads without still having excess energy. Thus running off solar/battery and once battery is down to 80% SOC, start turbine again... rinse repeat...

Only here in South Africa people refer to a Hot Water Cylinder as a Geyser and half the time screw up the spelling... so the Hot Water Cylinder if its an electric one, ideally should form part of the non-essential side of the inverter....