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KLEVA

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KLEVA last won the day on December 16 2019

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    Pinetown, Kwazulu-Natal, South Africa

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  1. Realise this is a late response - We use this configuration at the office (The Ellies Invertor on Trolley). We have connected a 30A PWM Controller (Used to even be able to by Ellies ones, but ours was just sourced as Generic - with LCD display - Think Ecco is the brand), and then have 400W of 100W panels (2 + 2 configuration - 2 in Series, 2 in Parallel) so as not to exceed the Max DC voltage of the PWM Controller. Since we only run a few Laptops, a small Server and the ip phones, +- 30W of LED lights and fibre router. This setup has been tested without mains power and has lasted over 2 days (
  2. Just reread your question - apologies, but most of what I discussed was about putting panels in Series together, not 2 strings in parallel (and for some reason I couldn't edit my post). Coulomb's response above is more accurate for your scenario.
  3. Not standard but more common than you think, and in itself not a CoC fail, the wires just have to be clearly marked.
  4. My first thinking is NO No matter how you match disparate panels you will always end up with lost of losses that are normally not worth it. That said, you can get close, but you have to understand that there will be losses, and it will never add up as before. Ideally you should replace all panels at the same time. Financially we know you can't, so read below: Here is a generic (based on an idiot who financially can't afford to replace all panels AKA me): Know the Voltage from your panels (real, not just the Vm displayed) Know the physical size of your panels (sounds wie
  5. Whoops - Missed the approximate sizing question (although this does go back to Wilfreds response about lifestyle change, and my response about huge and varied). PS: Still recommend you get and installer to accurately assess and/or a local power forum user to double check Your usage is just a bit over mine, so describing my sizing may help (I am broke and my credit card is only in debt due to the solar stuff I have bought!): FAIL - I started with basic deep cycle 100Ah batteries - Calcium/Calcium, but while these are suitable for lake/dam boats and basic caravanning, these are not
  6. Hi @Tbird, firstly welcome to the forum. There are a few choices with Geyser/Water Heating: Switch to Solar Geyser with a GeyserWise and some Evacuated Tubes - First Prize; Pros - Almost free; Almost never have no hot water; Cons - Costly to initially set up (R22k or less in your case); Has a electricity backup and usage when multiple days of no sun. Change to Gas Geyser - Second Prize; Pros, you only spend what you use; On demand heat, faster than geyser; Cons - Setup can still be pricey and gas is not free; Heat Exchanger - I am not 100% familiar with this tech, but
  7. Hi @plonkster, I am not seeing the issue with the highlighted wire connection itself... It is just extending the connection of the thicker wire, since I can't see where that thicker wire connects, I am not immediately seeing any problem. If the thicker wire ties directly into the Mains (Municipal Supply) at this point then there still might not be a point for concern if there is a seperate Earth Leakage in the outside area. It is fairly common to NOT connect earth leakage from one DB board to another, since you have no idea what is going to be connected at that DB, and you don't want a earth l
  8. Something I have seen done in ANY areas that an get damaged via abrasion, crimping, etc: Use a short piece of cable with connectors each side that goes through the area likely to be damaged. This short piece can then be replaced without major cost/time impact on installation when ness. As an example: I use this method for ANY cable that runs from the inside to outside my Camper Van. It breaks, it is quick and simple and cheap to fix.
  9. Surprised that it is the motorquip shutting down with 85W, my experience has more been along the line of the laptop charger just not working due to the modified sine wave. Some things to be aware of though - VA & Watts are horribly interchanged on cheaper equipment, and there is a big difference. A lot of equipment with capacitors inside that are not high end equipment, will allow more than than 2A of 220VAC as "inrush" current, so easily tripping the Motorquip's 2 point something limit; Be aware that Motorquip invertors are usually labelled at the MAX Wattage, but are usually designe
  10. Glad you sorted. For those who may come across this query in future - You can contact @Camel on this forum via PM and he will be able to send you a price, or advise further.
  11. Thanks for Info. My call is to charge the 210 bank with a max of 25A when charging to 58VDC (for removing Sulphates/Equalising), but at 10-12A for normal float and for just a smidge under 54V. Those equalisers are decent HA02's which I use so know they work well. Forgotten the Axpert setting (the number to set in the programming), but treat them as normal Lead Acid settings (the default) and you should be good. I think the default Axpert settings are just over 58VDC for equalising, and about 54.4 for float - but double check with a meter at batteries to counter for any loss on the cables
  12. @Richard Mackay - If that were true, many on this forum would be rich and famous If life worked that way I would be a multi-millionaire instead of having to have restarted my career at the bottom rung at 48. From a senior Project Manager with Telecommunication specialty in the Oil and Gas Industry, working internationally, to unemployed for 4 years... Changes your perspective... You take what you can or can build up on your own.
  13. @Jaco de JonghNo, you right, did go off topic, forgot that the question was about realistic results. Think my brain was more concerned about people breaking their systems...
  14. @Jaco de Jongh - On a 6 panel 250W/panel system, I have seen over 1500W according to an Axpert. I have also seen over 100W on my small PWM controller while out on the dam from a single 100W rated panel (3.85 A @ 27.2VDC = 104.7W, I recorded it on my phone) while charging 2 x 100Ah batteries, one of the reasons I switched back to a 50W panel - they started bubbling (@under 4A they never should have, but understood that they are cheap/nasty batteries). I also understand that temp and distance/cable size will make a difference and reduce it overall before the normal household input - but in my ex
  15. Sorry, because of a question on another post - Did Mecer figure this out, or did your solar installer (you didn't make that clear)? Battery charging should be within specifications of the manufacturer (how many amps, what voltage, etc) I might have missed a post where you discussed your batteries, and I tend to be very conservative with mine, so I can only advise as follows (voltage of the bank is not relevant as we are discussing charging current): Please bear in mind that these are generalities and the manufacturer specification should be followed first. This is only
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