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GreenMan's Achievements

  1. Item Wanted: Pylontech US2000 - not in working condition as I need to harvest some cells from it. Typically this could be a Pylontech that has the BMS blown. Packaging Essential: Not necessary Desired Age: Not important Location: Jhb Reason: I have an old Pylontech which was hit by lightning and the BMS was blown. It was which was kindly given to me by PurePower who is a member on this forum. I installed a Daly SmartBMS into the US2000 and the (PylonDalyTech ?) works just fine as a 15S battery. However using the smartphone app I can see that one of the cells is dying. The packs in the Pylontech are a little swollen probably due to overcharging when the BMS got fried by lightning. So maybe that is why the one cell is dying. So if anyone has an old US2000 I could harvest 2x working cells from it (each cell in a Pylontech US2000 are actually 2 pouches in parallel) and then I could build a 16S pack as the Daly SmartBMS can also be configured for a 16S pack.
  2. Hi Saliegh Did the uncased one work with WIndows 10 ?
  3. Bobster, that anode looks brand new ! Take a wire brush to clean it a bit and put it back in. This is what a worn one looks like. Geyser was installed in Nov 2017. I got a replacement one (HeatTech and Kwikot use exactly the same anode) and installed that. I replaced my 3KW element with a 2KW element, as per 87Dream's recommendation. I also replaced the gasket at the same time. When the element flange was off I saw how bad the anode was and had to hunt for a replacement. Eventually found one at Leroy Merlin and was pretty cheap @ R133. 00. I think the anodes wear at different rates depending on the water quality. I did not expect mine to be that bad at just under 4 years.
  4. Apparently (but I have not tested it) LBSA can communicate with Victron.
  5. Hi Greyman A long shot but have you tried settings OG Max inverter to appliance mode ?
  6. According to the datasheet - Datasheet-EasySolar-II-48-3000-35-32-MPPT-250-70-GX-EN.pdf (victronenergy.com) the battery that he has will work as the Easysolar II can take max of 66V. However the charging voltage of the Easysolar is a max of 57.6V which won't be enough to charge that 16S pack. He could reconfigure the battery to a 14S pack so that the 57.6V would be close to the required charge voltage. With 57.6V and 14S then there will be approx 4.1V per cell. This is just fine and will give max life for the pack. Re the BMS that you mentioned, yes it may have R485 comms port but you don't know if has the protocols to talk to Victron. It may be possible to use the LG Chem as a "dumb battery" (lead acid) and in order to get more intelligent battery information to use a Victron BMV and connect it to the Easysolar via VEDirect connection.
  7. Where did you get the stuff from ?
  8. +1 For Achmat's comment. The Pylon cables are marked 105 deg C and 4 AWG. So most sites would say that the max current is 95A. The Pylons use the Amphenol SurLok connectors - 5.7mm which are rated at 120A max. So your 137A charge/discharge current limit would exceed the current carrying capacity of the Pylon's cable size and the the connectors. So your idea to double up the cables would work just fine. A thrifty way to save a few bucks is to use the spare pair of short cables already fitted with SurLoks on either end which you would have as every Pylontech comes with one so you should have one spare. Cut the one end off and crimp a 25 sqmm cable and heatshrink onto the free end and you will have your own DIY Pylontech cable pack
  9. For your 600W generator (well actually an alternator ) you are looking at 12.5A AC max so a 35A 200V bridge would work nicely like this FB3502 - Communica [Part No: FB3502] I would mount each bridge rectifier on a decently sized heat sink. Or you could mount all 3 onto a big one for ease of mounting.
  10. I would run 3 phase to the battery banks. It will allow you to access the AC to test/measure/monitor the rectifiers. I assume that you will be adding some smoothing capacitors after the rectifiers ? Also you would be using a charge controller to prevent overcharging of the batteries ? Use the thickest cables that you can afford to mimimize the energy lost in the cables. Even if it is a small amount, it will eventually be sizeable assuming the system is in place for a number of years... Post some pics when you get a chance.
  11. That BMS looks like the one that LBSA use in their Smartbatteries - judging by the look of the LCD screen with 4x grey buttons on the right of screen.
  12. Yes and no. You do get MC4s with pins that a normal crimper will work. These have round holes for the cable to go into. If they look like the ones in the first pic below, then you will need a special crimper that squeezes the open ends into a "m" shape around the bare wire. See second pic below. You can see that the jaws of the crimper have special profiles for bending over the open strips of the connector. If you just have to crimp a few of the second (more common) variety, just solder them ! http://engineer-solar.com/Uploads/Editor/image/20140415/20140415215056_57930.jpg
  13. Anyone wanting more info on the Axpert Max II (8KW) you can have a look at Voltronic Power Off-Grid Inverter Axpert MAX II Product brochure/datasheet - Axpert_MAX II_(8KW)_DS.pdf (voltronicpower.com) I note that the Max II has CANbus communications to batteries whereas it looks like the Max I does not. The following is from the Max II user manual.
  14. +1 Also posts should be able to have SOLD added to end of advert text.
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