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Thank you for the great forum, Safe Driving over the weekend. Sincerely Jason

superdiy

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superdiy last won the day on March 16 2017

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About superdiy

  • Birthday 07/11/1974

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  1. Now Nersa wants to charge you if you are generating your own power - generators, solar etc. etc. - connected to the grid or not. What a lot of BS. https://businesstech.co.za/news/energy/205382/you-may-soon-need-to-register-and-pay-nersa-for-your-personal-generators-and-solar-panels/
  2. The problem is that for the same wattage lamp on 12V compared to 220V, you'll need thicker wire because the current draw is higher, so your initial statement of "your wiring is way cheaper" is incorrect and misleading and might confuse people not that familiar with the subject. This statement is also incorrect. Thicker wires of the same material (e.g. copper) will have less resistance and therefore will reduce the voltage drop across the length of wire.
  3. ...ignoring power factor and losses and efficiency... 3 watts on 12V => 3/12 => 250mA 3 watts on 220V => 3/220 => 13mA Even if you replaced a 50W incandescent bulb with a 3W LED lamp: 50 watts on 220V => 50/220 => 227mA - the 50W 220V lamp actually still required thinner wiring as the 3W 12V lamp... Normally you would use 1mm2 or 1.5mm2 wire for lights; it will easily feed say 8 x 50W (400W) downlights => 400W on 220V => 1.8A on one light circuit. If you replace those 50W downlights with equivalent LED downlights, you'll have to use at least 5W lamps to get a similar amount of light => 8 x 5W (40W) on 12V will draw 3.33A, almost double the current of the 220V lamps and you might start to think about using thicker wiring. Just an example...
  4. My initial thought as well. Looks almost if the inverter got some (salt) water into it and onto the pc board...
  5. Technically the current drawn by the lower voltage lights of the same wattage will be higher than the mains lights - to minimize losses in the cabling, the cable for the low voltage installation should be thicker and therefor more expensive.
  6. Remember to update your signature.
  7. What did you use o measure the consumption with? Does your meter / measuring device take power factor into account or are you actually measuring VA and not W?
  8. I think we have discussed this before. 12V for a 5KVA inverter is not even close to ideal... You are talking about a current draw of roughly 450A at full load - that is insane for a small 5KVA system.
  9. Nou ja, met die website crash en die 2 dae oue backup wat restore is, het daar so paar posts verlore geraak... Een van hulle is waar @fritserasmus gevra het of dit hierdie een is: https://www.webantics.com/asus-vivomini-un65h-i3-6100u-ultra-compact-windows-pc vir R7500, wel dit is nie hierdie een nie, maar een van sy voorgangers wat my destyds net onder die R1500 gekos het: https://www.webantics.com/asus-vivomini-un42-m023m-ultra-compact-barebone-pc-kit, maar hulle is blykbaar nie meer beskikbaar nie en ek sou nie R7500 betaal het net om die inverter te monitor nie. As jy hom vir 'n ander doel ook gaan gebruik kan dit dalk die koste regverdig.
  10. That is quite an interesting read. I think I might need to monitor my bank's voltage a bit and maybe tweak my When float charging current is less than settings to compensate. After completion of the absorption period, a battery charger in general switches to the float charge mode. In case of a 3-stage charger the float voltage should be sufficiently high to compensate for self discharge of the battery, but should at the same time be as low as possible in order to limit corrosion of the positive plates and gassing. In practice the balance isn’t perfect: flooded batteries will gas substantially more than when left open circuited and will need regular topping up. We have therefore introduced a fourth stage: the Storage mode. The Storage mode kicks in whenever the battery has not been subjected to discharge during 24 hours. In the Storage mode float voltage is reduced to 2,2 V/cell (13,2 V for a 12 V battery), which is close to the open circuit voltage of a fully charged battery. Corrosion and gassing are reduced to absolute minimum, but self-discharge is not compensated. To compensate for self discharge, and to stir up the electrolyte, the voltage is raised back to absorption level once every week. Note: although sealed (VLRA AGM or gel) batteries can be float charged at 13,5 V to 13,8 V during long periods of time (no topping up needed!), some studies have shown that the Storage mode will increase service life of sealed batteries (see for ex. ‘Batterie Technik’ by Heinz Wenzl, Expert Verlag, 1999). Adding a forth charge stage, the Storage mode, also provides the option to increase the voltage during the third, ‘float’ stage to 2,33 V/cell (14 V for a 12 V battery). This is the charge voltage generally used for starter batteries in vehicles, and is ideal to ‘supercharge’ an already charged battery.
  11. You should never mix batteries from different manufacturers or of different models or of different Ah ratings or of different ages or of different chemistries. Even more, to add parallel battery strings (more batteries) is also challenging in many ways and if that is the only option, it should be done correctly - refer to my guide for more information regarding parallel battery strings: If you are thinking of increasing the capacity of your battery bank, rather buy new batteries of higher Ah ratings and ensure that you end up with only 1 string of batteries.
  12. Maybe @plonkster can advise on the desired float time... As per my explanation, I've monitored the current into the batteries during float and configured it to switch off the charger if the current dropped below 0,4A and stayed below that for more than 60 minutes. You can adjust the max charging current to 25A, 22.5A is exactly 10% of the Ah rating, but you can easily go up to 13% - 14% of the Ah rating, which would be approximately 30A. My float voltage is set to 52.8V (according to the older T105RE datasheet), because my batteries were manufactured before the newer datasheet became available, but I don't think the float voltage will make much of a difference - you can keep yours on 54V. The other settings look fine.
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