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superdiy

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Everything posted by superdiy

  1. Have you had any luck resolving the problem? I have 2 of the OG5.48 inverters, one about a year old and quiet, but my new one which I have for about 1 month now and which I've only started up yesterday has this high pitched noise as soon as grid power is connected. When it is running from battery it is quiet.
  2. Now Nersa wants to charge you if you are generating your own power - generators, solar etc. etc. - connected to the grid or not. What a lot of BS. https://businesstech.co.za/news/energy/205382/you-may-soon-need-to-register-and-pay-nersa-for-your-personal-generators-and-solar-panels/
  3. The problem is that for the same wattage lamp on 12V compared to 220V, you'll need thicker wire because the current draw is higher, so your initial statement of "your wiring is way cheaper" is incorrect and misleading and might confuse people not that familiar with the subject. This statement is also incorrect. Thicker wires of the same material (e.g. copper) will have less resistance and therefore will reduce the voltage drop across the length of wire.
  4. ...ignoring power factor and losses and efficiency... 3 watts on 12V => 3/12 => 250mA 3 watts on 220V => 3/220 => 13mA Even if you replaced a 50W incandescent bulb with a 3W LED lamp: 50 watts on 220V => 50/220 => 227mA - the 50W 220V lamp actually still required thinner wiring as the 3W 12V lamp... Normally you would use 1mm2 or 1.5mm2 wire for lights; it will easily feed say 8 x 50W (400W) downlights => 400W on 220V => 1.8A on one light circuit. If you replace those 50W downlights with equivalent LED downlights, you'll have to use at least 5W lamps to get a similar amount of light => 8 x 5W (40W) on 12V will draw 3.33A, almost double the current of the 220V lamps and you might start to think about using thicker wiring. Just an example...
  5. My initial thought as well. Looks almost if the inverter got some (salt) water into it and onto the pc board...
  6. Technically the current drawn by the lower voltage lights of the same wattage will be higher than the mains lights - to minimize losses in the cabling, the cable for the low voltage installation should be thicker and therefor more expensive.
  7. What did you use o measure the consumption with? Does your meter / measuring device take power factor into account or are you actually measuring VA and not W?
  8. I think we have discussed this before. 12V for a 5KVA inverter is not even close to ideal... You are talking about a current draw of roughly 450A at full load - that is insane for a small 5KVA system.
  9. Nou ja, met die website crash en die 2 dae oue backup wat restore is, het daar so paar posts verlore geraak... Een van hulle is waar @fritserasmus gevra het of dit hierdie een is: https://www.webantics.com/asus-vivomini-un65h-i3-6100u-ultra-compact-windows-pc vir R7500, wel dit is nie hierdie een nie, maar een van sy voorgangers wat my destyds net onder die R1500 gekos het: https://www.webantics.com/asus-vivomini-un42-m023m-ultra-compact-barebone-pc-kit, maar hulle is blykbaar nie meer beskikbaar nie en ek sou nie R7500 betaal het net om die inverter te monitor nie. As jy hom vir 'n ander doel ook gaan gebruik kan dit dalk die koste regverdig.
  10. That is quite an interesting read. I think I might need to monitor my bank's voltage a bit and maybe tweak my When float charging current is less than settings to compensate. After completion of the absorption period, a battery charger in general switches to the float charge mode. In case of a 3-stage charger the float voltage should be sufficiently high to compensate for self discharge of the battery, but should at the same time be as low as possible in order to limit corrosion of the positive plates and gassing. In practice the balance isn’t perfect: flooded batteries will gas substantially more than when left open circuited and will need regular topping up. We have therefore introduced a fourth stage: the Storage mode. The Storage mode kicks in whenever the battery has not been subjected to discharge during 24 hours. In the Storage mode float voltage is reduced to 2,2 V/cell (13,2 V for a 12 V battery), which is close to the open circuit voltage of a fully charged battery. Corrosion and gassing are reduced to absolute minimum, but self-discharge is not compensated. To compensate for self discharge, and to stir up the electrolyte, the voltage is raised back to absorption level once every week. Note: although sealed (VLRA AGM or gel) batteries can be float charged at 13,5 V to 13,8 V during long periods of time (no topping up needed!), some studies have shown that the Storage mode will increase service life of sealed batteries (see for ex. ‘Batterie Technik’ by Heinz Wenzl, Expert Verlag, 1999). Adding a forth charge stage, the Storage mode, also provides the option to increase the voltage during the third, ‘float’ stage to 2,33 V/cell (14 V for a 12 V battery). This is the charge voltage generally used for starter batteries in vehicles, and is ideal to ‘supercharge’ an already charged battery.
  11. You should never mix batteries from different manufacturers or of different models or of different Ah ratings or of different ages or of different chemistries. Even more, to add parallel battery strings (more batteries) is also challenging in many ways and if that is the only option, it should be done correctly - refer to my guide for more information regarding parallel battery strings: If you are thinking of increasing the capacity of your battery bank, rather buy new batteries of higher Ah ratings and ensure that you end up with only 1 string of batteries.
  12. Maybe @plonkster can advise on the desired float time... As per my explanation, I've monitored the current into the batteries during float and configured it to switch off the charger if the current dropped below 0,4A and stayed below that for more than 60 minutes. You can adjust the max charging current to 25A, 22.5A is exactly 10% of the Ah rating, but you can easily go up to 13% - 14% of the Ah rating, which would be approximately 30A. My float voltage is set to 52.8V (according to the older T105RE datasheet), because my batteries were manufactured before the newer datasheet became available, but I don't think the float voltage will make much of a difference - you can keep yours on 54V. The other settings look fine.
  13. I think there is some misunderstanding about the input and output connections on the infini inverters, just to clarify any misunderstanding... The infini inverters only have 2 AC connections each: It has 1 mains / grid connection which is used as the mains / grid input to the inverter, BUT when the infini is configured to feed back to the grid, it is done on this same connection. This single mains / grid connection is therefor used as input to the inverter as well as the output to the grid in feedback mode. It has 1 load connection to which the load is connected. It does not have separate grid / mains input and grid feed connections - this all happens on the same connection, so if you plug it into a wall outlet, it will also be able to feed back into the grid by means of that same wall outlet connection, if configured to do so.
  14. I think the problem might be with the When float charging current is less than... setting, just above the system time setting. In your case, what would essentially happen, is that when the float current becomes less than 10A, for longer than 1 minute, the charger will switch off and stay off until the battery voltage dropped to 50V, only then will the charger start charging the batteries again. In your case the max charge current is set to 22.5A and thus the charging process will start off at a maximum current of 22.5A (depending on the SOC of the battery bank) for the bulk charge cycle until the battery voltage reaches 58V (bulk charging voltage as per your setting). The charger will then go into absorption mode until the charging current reaches 5A (as per the manual). The charger will then go into float mode and keep the battery bank at 54V (float voltage as per your setting). Since the battery bank's voltage is around 58V at that point in time and the float voltage is set to 54V the float current will effectively be 0A and will be 0A for some time until the battery voltage dropped to a value below 54V. Currently your setting When float charging current is less than... is configured to switch off the charger when the float current is below 10A for 1 minute - it would most definitely be below 10A for probably much longer than 1 minute, so effectively the charger will be switched off only 1 minute after it went into float charging mode and only again switched on when the battery voltage dropped to below 50V. If no current is drawn from the battery bank, the battery bank voltage will gradually drop over an extended period until 50V is reached. (My battery bank takes about 4-5 weeks to drop from 52.8V to 50.8V) That is probably why your battery bank voltage seems to stay at 52.3V - it drops very very slowly. Initially I monitored the charging process on my infini and noticed that the charging current measured by the inverter is out with about 0,3A - the inverter will continuously display a charging current of 0,4A while the BMV and multimeter will not measure any current flowing into the battery bank and therefor I've changed the setting When float charging current is less than... on my set-up to switch off the charger if the float charging current was less than 0,4A for more than 60 minutes and to switch the charger on again, when the battery voltage drops to 50.8V.
  15. The infini can actually be configured to feed back to the grid in battery mode - in other words (at night) when no PV is available it can still feed back into the grid...
  16. As jy Windows en 'n PC verkies (wat jy vir ander doeleindes ook kan gebruik) kan jy altyd kyk na iets soos die VivoMini - hulle gebruik ongeveer 7W as hulle idle. Om inverters te monitor kwalifiseer basies as idle - daar is net nou en dan bietjie CPU activity. Ek gebruik 'n UN42, dis 'n fantastiese stukkie ingenieursvernuf in 'n besonderse klein pakkie...
  17. @Czauto, do the voltmeters have presets which can be used to calibrate them? I've bought 4 meters about 2 years ago, but unfortunately they did not have the option to be calibrated - lately most of them do. Back then I've connected all of them to a variable bench power supply all at the same time and varied the voltage and there was almost 1.5V difference between the meter with the lowest reading and the meter with the highest reading - needless to say, they are still lying somewhere in a box waiting to either be modified or scrapped. Maybe a bit too late now, but always a good idea to connect them all at the same time to a variable power supply and add a calibrated multimeter or oscilloscope in the mix and calibrate the meters before you install and connect them to the batteries. Even if you don't have a calibrated multimeter or oscilloscope, it is still better to get all of them to give the same reading when connected to the same source, that way you know that when they are connected to the batteries, you can actually trust their readings, even though it might not be spot-on they will all read the same amount too low or too high.
  18. I notice that you refer to VictronConnect and ICC, but have you checked the actual BMV702's display? The reading on the BMV's display would be the correct reading - if you compare that reading to the readings on VictronConnect and ICC you will know which one of the 2 software products displays the incorrect reading. Your midpoint reading should be as close as possible to 0%. 0.2% is OK, 2% is not good.
  19. If you decide to connect one HA-02 only, fuse all connections between batteries. Never tie batteries together as in the diagram below - refer to the document I've uploaded regarding one string or parallel strings.
  20. I was pretty sure that's what Chris also meant, but since you also got excited about it, I thought I'm missing something. Technically the HA-02 only compensates for 1 side then.
  21. I'm lost. What do you mean with the HA02 only compensating for two sides?
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