GreenMan

Johnno M. 
Where does one buy them from?
 

If these are the 145V max PV models, then the latest firmware seems to be 72.05, available here.
But Kodak seem sloppy with model names, not distinguishing properly between the King and King II models. The latter have 500V max PV voltage. Check the label on the side of the inverter.
Sorry for the late reply.

Here’s a look at one of our latest client installations:
9 x 51.2V, 100Ah, 5.1kWh LBSA Lithium Batteries
3 x Integrated Fireblock Lithium Suppression Systems
What this means for the homeowner:
Reliable, scalable energy storage for everyday use
Automated Fireblock protection for maximum safety
Professional installation – neat, safe, and ready for years of dependable service
Why Fireblock?
Because safety isn’t an add-on — it’s built in.
Automatic activation during thermal runaway
No drilling or modifications required
Protects your home, your investment, and your peace of mind
At Lithium Batteries South Africa (LBSA), we believe every installation should deliver not only power but also peace of mind. That’s why our systems combine cutting-edge LiFePO₄ technology with the industry’s best safety solutions.
Get in touch with us:
Johannesburg - 010 110 1991
Cape Town - 021 108 2151
[email protected]
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YouTube: @LithiumBatteriesSA
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That's the crux, where are the photos of the supposed devices and how are they supposed to communicate? via cell signals? how will the carriers allow this, without getting paid? Klink soos 'n klomp stront.

Let me add to this, I saw this story 2 days ago, but immediately decided it was load of codswallop and thus did not post it here or anywhere else, after all, this is for the uninformed who can not employ critical thinking to realise this has a less than 1% chance of being true, since there are too many obstacles in the way that make this the most unlikely scenario, but it ties in with Ronald Bumpkins economic attack on China...

Attached is the data sheet for high star li ion cells,
they come in a 1.3ah, 1.5ah, 2ah and 2.2ah capacity, according to HIGHstar their specifications are the same just the capacity differs????
If I were in your shoes I will source Sony/Murata vtc6 cells, out of my own experience if I require a high discharge battery They are the absolute best.
another good cell is the LG chem MJ1 cell,
both of these 2 have 3000mah capacity vs the 25R with 2500mah.
dont even consider a samsung 35E they are not high power cells, any samsung cell with a R after the numerical identifier is high discharge cells, eg 15R, 20R, 25R
ISR18650-1300大配组通用技术规格书-486-2019.pdf

Samsung cells are the best, IMO. But they do come at a cost.
Try Samsung 18650 3500mA 3.7V Lion Battery - Micro Robotics, INR18650-35E

Good TECHNICAL explanation 
 
 

Battery is shot,  R200k for new battery? - have 2 Leaf's, am looking for parts - i.e. to cannibalise- cheaper than to import parts! Fast charger, and 100% charge kills these batteries!! Got latest one with 10 bars for R50k, and spent another R30k to fix! Kids LOVE the "Golf Carts"! To date best zippiest car we have had

Put them on the back of your bakkie, drive into town. Park somewhere in an area known for alternative shopping. Go and have lunch.

Yes, it will work. I have a 12V 100A LiFePo4 connected to a 720w Mecer inverter. 
However, the charge switch MUST only be set to 10A and not 20A. If you do that, the inverter will eventually fail. This is well documented in the mybroadband thread. 
Other small catch is that if you drain the battery enough, then the battery BMS will turn off the battery. When the power comes back the inverter won't turn on as there is no battery voltage and hence cannot start charging the battery. Solution is to use a voltage source that is high enough e.g. 13.8V and connect it momentarily to the inverter battery terminals. This will wake up the BMS and allow the inverter to turn on and charging to commence. 
For safety I only use a power supply that is isolated e.g. ye olde transformer based psu. 
Yes the Mecer does charge the battery at below the ideal 14.0V but so far so good and if necessary I will hook up a 14.0V (isolated) PSU 
to the battery to let the BMS balancer do its thing. 14.2 V is probably even better. 

Yes, it will work. I have a 12V 100A LiFePo4 connected to a 720w Mecer inverter. 
However, the charge switch MUST only be set to 10A and not 20A. If you do that, the inverter will eventually fail. This is well documented in the mybroadband thread. 
Other small catch is that if you drain the battery enough, then the battery BMS will turn off the battery. When the power comes back the inverter won't turn on as there is no battery voltage and hence cannot start charging the battery. Solution is to use a voltage source that is high enough e.g. 13.8V and connect it momentarily to the inverter battery terminals. This will wake up the BMS and allow the inverter to turn on and charging to commence. 
For safety I only use a power supply that is isolated e.g. ye olde transformer based psu. 
Yes the Mecer does charge the battery at below the ideal 14.0V but so far so good and if necessary I will hook up a 14.0V (isolated) PSU 
to the battery to let the BMS balancer do its thing. 14.2 V is probably even better. 

Yes, it will work. I have a 12V 100A LiFePo4 connected to a 720w Mecer inverter. 
However, the charge switch MUST only be set to 10A and not 20A. If you do that, the inverter will eventually fail. This is well documented in the mybroadband thread. 
Other small catch is that if you drain the battery enough, then the battery BMS will turn off the battery. When the power comes back the inverter won't turn on as there is no battery voltage and hence cannot start charging the battery. Solution is to use a voltage source that is high enough e.g. 13.8V and connect it momentarily to the inverter battery terminals. This will wake up the BMS and allow the inverter to turn on and charging to commence. 
For safety I only use a power supply that is isolated e.g. ye olde transformer based psu. 
Yes the Mecer does charge the battery at below the ideal 14.0V but so far so good and if necessary I will hook up a 14.0V (isolated) PSU 
to the battery to let the BMS balancer do its thing. 14.2 V is probably even better. 

There are a couple of photos at the MyBB thread: https://mybroadband.co.za/forum/threads/mecer-sol-i-bb-m1l-inverter-trolley.1218665/page-5#post-30603357

Yeah, going by what has been achieved in the lab from the latest published articles on the subject w.r.t. supercaps, those cannot possibly be supercaps. The energy density is much too high - even ignoring the fact that what is achieved in the articles won't be commercially viable for many years...
It appears that these are sold as supercaps on alibaba, and simply white-labeled and resold here. I would stick to LiFePO batteries.
For reference:
https://www.greenteche.com/gtem-48v15kwh-w2-capwall.html

So here it goes. So many ppl are getting into the DIY Lithium battery game. So what makes a lithium battery cell quality or not so quality. For a start it must test above its rated capacity if bought from a trusted source. 
How to test? Using the ZKE tech Battery load tester. I have purchased & shipped cells from quality suppliers & have not been disappointed yet. All have tested above specification on delivery & the cells have delivered close to 8MW of energy through the last year & they still doing very good duty in the field. 
These cells were CALB & EVE manufactured Grade A & tested to be the real deal. The batches were 100ah, 120ah & 235ah. They all tested on average at 105ah, 127ah & 240ah consistently during a full discharge & recharge at 40A. 
I am currently busy with a batch of allegedly 280ah EVE cells that I'm still busy capacity testing. So far 8 tested only 2 have made it above 280ah capacity. The rest are anywhere between 271ah & 276ah. Beware guys try not buy rubbish. Stick to a trusted source otherwise you may just burn your fingers or your wallet. When you capacity test there is absolutely no place to hide. Its a true reflection of what you have paid for. 
 

Yes that is why the majority of inverters are 48V.

To go lithium is a no brainer! I am seeing many lead acid batteries that are failing before 12 months use. This weekend I capacity tested a friend's Deltec "Deep Cycle" 657D as it was failing (after 9 months use). The battery measured 34.5AH at C/10 discharge rate. I am guessing that the battery was discharged regularly below 50% SOC and that caused the battery's early demise.

Unfortunately, the majority of those trolley inverters don't allow you change the inverter's low voltage cutout setting in order to preserve the battery. Also the float charge voltage is a tad low at 13.5V.   
Going 24V with lead acid batteries presents another problem - the batteries can become unbalanced, and one should use a balancer such as the HA02 which you used. 
The Pylontech UP2500 works well - I have one. Just remember that a single UP2500 can output only a max of 56A continuous. At a nominal 24V this equates to 1.3kW.

I ended up using the Uniross LFP12-7HD on my D5 Evo and my pc UPS. 

Securiprod lithium is working 100% on D5 EVO at friend's house. 

Happy to share when we find a supply 😀

This rebuild has been a major success. After about 10 cycles I am happy to report that the Hoppecke has been fully restored to produce & store energy again. 
The function of top or bottom balancing cannot be stressed enough. 
 
 

My main core business is solar installations. I just have a particular interest in Lithium Battery tech. So hence i have the equipment to be able to make good judgements on cell health etc. But yep this battery bank would have been tossed in the bin. I am glad I could save this very valuable bank of batteries. 
It's waiting for the owner to collect & we will carry out an installation using the same batteries. Hence I am starting to realise that buying unknown batteries that are cheaper or even Batteries like this with zero history can be assessed & saved. 
In fact all I need is 16 LFP cells delivered to my workshop & we can create something useful in a matter of a few nights over a beer. I still get so much joy when building these. It's extremely rewarding. 

Hi @GreenManI'm not a big fan of soldering especially when it comes down to wire connections. I prefer mechanical connections like a connector with mechanical locking pin etc. The connections made using the automotive connectors are actually very robust & strong. 
BIt I guess it's just preferences. Maybe my soldering just sux 😂

Very good read which ties in with the topic of feed in generation - Electricity and load shedding - JP Landman

I use this tester and it works very well. Charge-Discharge Monitor, DROK 0-90V 100A DC Ammeter Voltmeter, Battery Capacity Amp-Hour Watt-Hour Power Time Multimeter, LCD Display Digital Voltage Current AH WH Watt Meter Tester with Hall Sensor: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement
This is example of a 100Ah lead acid battery test result. Battery life 8 months. Test started after charging battery to 14.0V. Tested at approx C/20 rate (the rate that most battery manufacturers use) and cut-off voltage = 10.5V. This battery was in a 24V system and my guess is that the 2x 12V batteries went out of balance and with the higher stages of load shedding (greater DOD) the batteries were killed quickly. You can see in the test the battery only measured 19.3AH.

 I googled for the availabilty of the unit in SA and found it here -  DC Ammeter, DROK Digital DC Multimeter 0-90V 100A Voltmeter Ammeter 12 – Reliable Store but note that I did not buy my unit from them.