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GreenMan

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Everything posted by GreenMan

  1. Hi Saliegh Did the uncased one work with WIndows 10 ?
  2. Bobster, that anode looks brand new ! Take a wire brush to clean it a bit and put it back in. This is what a worn one looks like. Geyser was installed in Nov 2017. I got a replacement one (HeatTech and Kwikot use exactly the same anode) and installed that. I replaced my 3KW element with a 2KW element, as per 87Dream's recommendation. I also replaced the gasket at the same time. When the element flange was off I saw how bad the anode was and had to hunt for a replacement. Eventually found one at Leroy Merlin and was pretty cheap @ R133. 00. I think the anodes wear at different rates depending on the water quality. I did not expect mine to be that bad at just under 4 years.
  3. Apparently (but I have not tested it) LBSA can communicate with Victron.
  4. Hi Greyman A long shot but have you tried settings OG Max inverter to appliance mode ?
  5. According to the datasheet - Datasheet-EasySolar-II-48-3000-35-32-MPPT-250-70-GX-EN.pdf (victronenergy.com) the battery that he has will work as the Easysolar II can take max of 66V. However the charging voltage of the Easysolar is a max of 57.6V which won't be enough to charge that 16S pack. He could reconfigure the battery to a 14S pack so that the 57.6V would be close to the required charge voltage. With 57.6V and 14S then there will be approx 4.1V per cell. This is just fine and will give max life for the pack. Re the BMS that you mentioned, yes it may have R485 comms port but you don't know if has the protocols to talk to Victron. It may be possible to use the LG Chem as a "dumb battery" (lead acid) and in order to get more intelligent battery information to use a Victron BMV and connect it to the Easysolar via VEDirect connection.
  6. Where did you get the stuff from ?
  7. +1 For Achmat's comment. The Pylon cables are marked 105 deg C and 4 AWG. So most sites would say that the max current is 95A. The Pylons use the Amphenol SurLok connectors - 5.7mm which are rated at 120A max. So your 137A charge/discharge current limit would exceed the current carrying capacity of the Pylon's cable size and the the connectors. So your idea to double up the cables would work just fine. A thrifty way to save a few bucks is to use the spare pair of short cables already fitted with SurLoks on either end which you would have as every Pylontech comes with one so you should have one spare. Cut the one end off and crimp a 25 sqmm cable and heatshrink onto the free end and you will have your own DIY Pylontech cable pack
  8. For your 600W generator (well actually an alternator ) you are looking at 12.5A AC max so a 35A 200V bridge would work nicely like this FB3502 - Communica [Part No: FB3502] I would mount each bridge rectifier on a decently sized heat sink. Or you could mount all 3 onto a big one for ease of mounting.
  9. I would run 3 phase to the battery banks. It will allow you to access the AC to test/measure/monitor the rectifiers. I assume that you will be adding some smoothing capacitors after the rectifiers ? Also you would be using a charge controller to prevent overcharging of the batteries ? Use the thickest cables that you can afford to mimimize the energy lost in the cables. Even if it is a small amount, it will eventually be sizeable assuming the system is in place for a number of years... Post some pics when you get a chance.
  10. That BMS looks like the one that LBSA use in their Smartbatteries - judging by the look of the LCD screen with 4x grey buttons on the right of screen.
  11. Yes and no. You do get MC4s with pins that a normal crimper will work. These have round holes for the cable to go into. If they look like the ones in the first pic below, then you will need a special crimper that squeezes the open ends into a "m" shape around the bare wire. See second pic below. You can see that the jaws of the crimper have special profiles for bending over the open strips of the connector. If you just have to crimp a few of the second (more common) variety, just solder them ! http://engineer-solar.com/Uploads/Editor/image/20140415/20140415215056_57930.jpg
  12. Anyone wanting more info on the Axpert Max II (8KW) you can have a look at Voltronic Power Off-Grid Inverter Axpert MAX II Product brochure/datasheet - Axpert_MAX II_(8KW)_DS.pdf (voltronicpower.com) I note that the Max II has CANbus communications to batteries whereas it looks like the Max I does not. The following is from the Max II user manual.
  13. +1 Also posts should be able to have SOLD added to end of advert text.
  14. 4x 120Ah is not that small seeing most come with a few 7AH batteries...
  15. These are nice units - I do have some already. However they will only switch power on and off from 1x source. Schnavel wants to switch the oven/pump between solar/inverter/battery and Utility and hence why you need the safe switching capability that the ATS will provide.
  16. Have a look at this for a awesome solution for a DIY ATS switch which work fine as your oven and pump load diverter between PV/Inverter and grid. Obviously you would not need the over/under voltage protection relay. You could use the Sonoff that you suggested earlier to provide the signal to switch the load between power as supplied by the PV INVERTER shown in the circuit. TheBackShed.com - Forum At first glance the schematics may appear a tad daunting but it does work ! I suggest that you first take a look at the circuit for switched Live inputs in order to familiarize yourself with the logic. Then once you are clear with the logic then you can get to grips with the one with switched Neutrals. The timers are there to allow delays between switching from grid to solar and vice versa. I would say that if you are dealing with a purely resistive load you could possibly do away with the timers however you said you have pumps so I would use the timers...
  17. I had a quick look and I think that the unit you suggested is a control relay and cannot handle the high current that a oven would require.
  18. You would probably need 2x NC and 2x NO contacts as you most likely would need to switch the Neutral as well...
  19. @Jason. I have built (had PCBs made) for 2x variations of desulphators. The aim being to destroy the sulphite tendrils from shorting the cells. The design is to have a short high energy pulse to achieve the desulphation. I scoped the outputs and the ringing on the pulse is perfectly visible showing that the units do work. Sadly though I was never able to revive any dead batteries with the units (lead acid batteries). Due to the operation of the pulses my opinion is that are even of less use for gel type LA batteries. I also tried using the method found on the 'net to drain the sulphuric acid out the battery, fill it with epsom salts, drain and fill with battery acid etc etc etc. I found this to be a dangerous exercice - working with a heavy battery trying to drain out all the sulphuric acid which was frequently dirty (contaminants or bad quality lead perhaps ?) So after the experience of hours of building and testing the different circuits I am of the opinion that these de-sulphators are of little value and for me are in the "snake-oil" category. I did try to investigate how the batteries failed. Quite a few of the dead ones I tested had one cell gone bad which renders the whole battery useless and that cell showed significant deformation to the point where I think the plates in the dead cell are shorting each other. No amount of de-sulphation will work.
  20. Will check it out tomorrow - system running on battery now so no power from grid !
  21. @RhysMcW. Thanks for the useful info Perhaps the CT symbol and house symbol are from the new firmware as @Achmat suggests ? What is latest firmware version. Using SmartSolar it says;- Protocol Version:V0.2.0.1 Control Software Version 1:V3.8.7.8 Communication CPU Software Version:VE.4.1.6 We will check the 6 blocks to see if we can read the CT values. The inverter is remote so can access it via Solarman Smart. Are there values in the Device Data which show the CT readings ?
  22. Thanks Achmat. Can you perhaps confirm that the CT is connected to the correct pins for the 8KW Sunsynk ? We will change setting "limit to load" to be unticked. To confirm - when it says "limit to load" I assume that they mean limited to essentials ? So by unticking we get power also to non-essentials ?
  23. Why not parallel 3x 100AH cells - readily available. Will need few more bus-bars though...
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