GreenMan

Item: Synapse 600W pure sine wave inverter - 12V Age: Brand new - never used Price: R1650 Payment Method Accepted: Cash or EFT Warranty: None but item is brand new Packaging: Original packing. Comes with cables and software to connect the unit to PC/laptop Condition: Brand new, never used Location: Jhb, near Eastgate Shopping Centre Reason: Got a Victron from a forum member Shipping: At your risk and expense. The unit is quite heavy... Collection: Preferred. Link pulled off internet: Synapse UPS 600W 12V DC Inverter | SP-Energy

Not sure what a crossover cable but the wiring is not done 1 to 1. i.e there is a pair that is split and not connected to its corresponding colour. Cat5 or Cat6 refers to the cable itself. The following diagram should make more sense... the wiring convention is known as T568B. There is also T568A which works just as well. Note that the green and green/white pair is split. i.e. not Green pair - Orange pair - Blue pair - Brown pair This is how one runs network cable in a LAN topology. FYI you must have the split pair or it will not work on long distances. Found that out the hard way with some 30m cable runs for IP cameras ! A straight through cable (NO pairs split) resulted in loss of signal from the cameras. Re-crimping the RJ45 connectors as per T568B and the cameras worked flawlessly. BTW a short 1 to 1 (Green pair - Orange pair - Blue pair - Brown pair) cable may work without problem as was our case with the IP cameras. The short black cable supplied with a Pylontech battery is wired to the T568B standard. Have a look and let us know if yours is also wired the same.

Is there anything I need to watch out for (e.g. firmware versions or anything else) when adding another Pylontech US3000C to an existing stack of 4 US3000C ? The inverter is a Sunsynk so hopefully will avoid the problems with some Axpert type inverters and new model Pylontechs. A new cabinet will be added and the batteries spread across 2x 4-bay cabinets as best as can be i.e. 3x in one cabinet and 4x in the other. Each cabinet will have its own DC cables going to the fuse. 5th battery will have comms cable and DIP switches set accordingly.

Thanks Wanderer. I am looking for 375VA and upwards. Preferably 500VA.

Item Wanted: Victron VE.Direct to USB Cable Packaging Essential: Yes if not being collected Desired Age: Not important Location: Jhb/Pta Willing to accept a shipped item: Yes Ballpark/Budget Amount: TBD

Item Wanted: Victron Phoenix Inverter 12V: 350-500VA Packaging Essential: Not necessary Desired Age: Not important as long as it is working Location: Jhb/Pta Willing to accept a shipped item: Collection in Jhb/Pta preferred.

Most cameras - analogue or IP use 12V DC so it may be easier to use a battery to power the cameras instead of using an inverter. Should be more efficient during AC fail occurrence as there is no double conversion i.e. battery to mains AC back to 12V DC. If cameras are PoE then no choice but to go the inverter route.

Willing to pay for them 😀

Item Wanted: Cells from a Pylotech US2000 Packaging Essential: Yes as the pouches are rather delicate Desired Age: The newer the better Location: Jhb Willing to accept a shipped item: Y Reason for wanting them: I have salvaged a number of cells from US2000s that had defective BMSs (lightning damage). Some of the cells are damaged but the rest are OK. I am building 16S packs and adding my own BMS for a DIY battery build. I need a to get a few more cells to get to 16x cells.

That depends on the battery supplier. e.g. The FreedomWon eTower does not allow series connection. From Freedom-Won-Spec-sheet_LiTE_eTower_.pdf (freedomwon.co.za) The EG4 (as used by Will Prowse) 48V LiFePo4 batteries also do not allow series connection.

1. Yes 1C rated solar batteries (ie LiFePo4) would work. Assuming the motor is 15kW peak then max current draw will be approx 156A. 2. For 96V yes a BMS to manage/monitor/protect the pack. For 96v you would be looking at 32S pack configuration (with sufficient cell capacity to give you the full load current). Something like the following would work. One option is that the BMS would be used for afore-mentioned monitoring and pack/cell protection, - and also for charging protection. However, power to the motor would be direct from the battery pack via a contactor. This so that the large current does not have to go through the BMS. The contactor's coil is is energized via BMS 96V output with suitable DC to DC converter to match the contactor's coil. Drawback of this option is that if the BMS drops the output then the contactor will drop out as well and there will be zero current to the speed controller/motor. Second option is to use the output of the BMS (negative logic) to activate suitable warning device such as siren and/or waring lights to indicate an out of line condition that has been detected by the BMS. This way there is no sudden loss of power to the motor. Some motor controllers may put the motor into limp mode if it gets an alert signal.

Installed battery is 2.4AH (see the printing on the battery). The proposed battery is 7AH i.e. approx 3x the capacity of the installed one. 2x 7AH batteries in series gives you 24V with 7AH capacity.

You will need to put the 2x 7AH batteries in series - not parallel. Battery in the pic is 24V Also remember with the same charger it will take longer to charge the 2x 7AH batteries to 100%. Should not be a huge problem unless we get to Stage 20 Loadshedding...

That is why most industry EVs have a high pack voltage e.g. the old Nissan Leaf has nominal pack voltage of 360V. Higher voltage means less current draw from cells; thinner wires to the controller and the motor etc. What is the rating of the motor you are planning to use ? The very popular ME1003 (up to 72V) is used in many a conversion where a DC motor was the option chosen. The motor is rated at 20kW peak so that means (with 72V pack) the current draw is approx 277A ! The controller correspondingly needs to be rather beefy. I almost converted a beetle to electric using the above motor and a Kelly motor controller - 180A continuous and 1min current 400A. See KDH14401E - KDH - Opto-Isolated PM DC Controller - KellyControllers.eu My conclusions on a BMS were that to get one to handle that level of current was impractical and my plan was to use a BMS purely as a battery/cell monitor and thus as a warning system. This so that when there was an instance of low pack or cell voltage then the BMS output would drop and sound a buzzer/beeper. Over current is typically handled by the motor controller and failing that..... the fuses.

Sold !

Sale to Davy pending...

Item: Battery cabinet for 8x 100AH Lead Acid batteries. Not on wheels as it is rather heavy when loaded with 8x lead acid batteries. Dimensions (L x W x H) = 78 x 47 x 61 cm. Inside has upper and lower shelves for the batteries. Could also be used to house lithium batteries and an inverter. Or 4x lead acids and an inverter or..... Age: Couple of years Price: R500 - this is a good price. A 2x 100AH LA battery cabinet at Takealot is R1290 ! See Certo C2 Battery Cabinet - Steel | Buy Online in South Africa | takealot.com Payment Method Accepted: Cash or EFT (payment to reflect in my account) Warranty: Not applicable Packaging: Will be dismantled once viewed Condition: Excellent Location: Jhb Reason: Unused. Now have lithiium batteries. Shipping: Not worth it Collection: Yes

I see the Sonoff TH16 has been continued locally and I think it has been replaced by this unit - SONOFF TH Origin Smart Temperature Humidity Monitoring Switch (TH10/16 Upgrade Version) (itead.cc)

2nd in line please...

Does the Paloma 26 require mains electricity or does it operate on batteries ?

Yes please ! WIll send you a PM.

If Werner does not take it, I will.

A passive one would be fine too.

Anyone have one for sale ? 2x 8S cell balancers would suffice instead of a 16S Based in Jhb.

Are you getting 220V going to that box ? Try unplugging the LED control unit and see if the middle LED lights up. Maybe the LED control panel is blown (or something else) and is a short circuit which would pull down the 5V which drives the LED (I think) or pulling down the DC going to the 5v regulator. Or maybe the fuse has popped ? This is what mine looks like without being plugged into anything. Ignore the top left red LED, that is on the replacement PSU board.