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P1000

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P1000 last won the day on February 12 2020

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  1. If they are the next best thing, you might as well buy LiFePo4 now, and by the time you have to replace them, the LTO price would have dropped so much that it works out cheaper. With batteries that have a longer life, the risk of them failing due to something else also increases a lot (longer life = more time to develop another issue). Most of the failures of LiFePo4 you hear about is not related to end-of-life, so with that in mind, I would be hesitant to spend 3x the money on something that might last longer.
  2. I think the heatbed is triac controlled - either by chopping the wave like a dimmer, or by simply switching on and off at a fixed interval (or not - like dithering with Bresenham's line algorithm). The better method to control a heater is to use Bresenham's algorithm slaved to the line frequency. That would mean that it can only turn on a complete cycle but also that it could turn on for a single cycle. All of the above methods will cause interference with inverters. If it really bothers you, the best method in my opinion would be to get a DC heat bed that runs off a SMPS at high frequency PWM
  3. If I read that graph correctly, the 31,4A is at 48V, so it should not cause an issue. Your microwave did not consume 7222VA.
  4. I don't think there are official distributors, but I have seen individual imports before.
  5. Well, I think the advice from Coulomb is worth a lot more than my input, so you really should be thanking him
  6. Just to chime in. PWM is always inferior to MPPT, except in perhaps a very specific case, and will only be so for a small part of the year (or day). PWM has no storage component - it really is just what it says PWM. It will connect the solar panel to the battery with a mosfet until the battery voltage exceeds a setpoint and then disconnect until it goes below setpoint minus hysteresis. So it also cannot output more current than the panel current. The big loss in efficiency is the fact that you lose all the power in the voltage mismatch between panel and battery. So if you have a panel that del
  7. All the appliances you mention work on the basis of switching an element/magnetron on or off. Lower settings simply mean that the on period will be a smaller percentage of the time. This means that the inverter should still be capable of carrying the full load.
  8. It is usually a lot cheaper to add more PV panels than erect a tracker.
  9. This should last you a while: (mine has been running flawlessly for 7 years...) https://www.sustainable.co.za/laing-ecocirc-d5-38-700b-circulation-pump.html
  10. Yes it is possible. I do not know of any like this available at the moment, though. There are a number of inverters that work like this: Battery -> boost -> HV DC bus Panels -> boost/buck-boost/etc -> HV DC bus and then from the HV DC bus -> AC 50Hz So now you just need an extra battery <-> HV DC bus for all excess loads. (The battery will be either bidir or also have a buck from HV DC -> battery, there are other simplifications as well.) Overall it adds a lot of complexity for installers and will be a nightmare dealing with complaints
  11. In this scenario, what is the definition of a "rectifier" as you have used it here?
  12. By ADuM I mean something like this: https://za.rs-online.com/web/p/digital-isolator-ics/4967519P/ For sure arresors maybe 1ohm through-hole resistors going to these: https://za.rs-online.com/web/p/tvs-diodes/0508018/ (PESD12VL2BT,215)
  13. I like the FTDI stuff. You can get them from RS, but they are a lot more expensive than others. You will probably find what you want at Micro Robotics (PL2303). On opto-isolation: That could work but it is probably not going to be that simple - you need to arrest the surge and make sure it stops before the isolation barrier (on both sides) and have a fuse of sorts and enough distance to prevent breach. I have seen a number of very well designed isolation interfaces that failed to actually stop the surge from propagating simply because it is really difficult to do well in the real world.
  14. Not in an official manner. The fiber converter has it's 12V running over 2 pairs, data over the other 2 - so "power over cat6" perhaps. My Ratel has no PoE output either.
  15. Quite an elaborate setup - fiber converter, mikrotik router and wifi router. Usage is in the order of 7W at the DC end IIRC. So the boost converter is quite efficient. When the batteries are charged, consumption from the wall is roughly 11W.
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