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FixAMess last won the day on December 12 2021

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  1. Goodwe has a few high capacity inverters as well, might be worth your while contacting them.
  2. Yes, apparently this is by design and one cannot set the SOC to be 100% either, it only allows a max constant state of charge of 90% as well (on grid). So it will charge the battery to 100% using solar, but as soon as sun sets it discharges battery to 90%.. Both these limits are, in my opinion, designed to enhance the longevity of your battery...A LiPo4 battery should never be kept at 100% all the time. My batteries reach 100% then they "trickle" charge/discharge (20-30Watts) for a while, balancing, then at 100% go into standby. Once the sun sets they then deplete to 90% and stay there till the sun comes up again (unless I set it to drop to X% overnight). A very good battery management strategy.
  3. I don't think your electrician needs to be experienced with the Goodwe specifically. What is the problem you are experiencing? What mode are you using, post your config screen shots so we can assist, maybe provide some useful info? PV panels should be in series, pass through a fuse/disconnect before hitting the inverter. Are you getting alerts re the panels?
  4. To answer the original question as simply as possible; In summer you will get a max of 6 X installed panel and in winter 4 X installed panel...Average, summed over the entire day from dawn to dusk. You may get > 100% of installed panel power in bursts though.. Today I got 110% of rated installed panel power. It also depends on the orientation and angle of your panels, but the above is a good estimate of what can realistically be achieved.. My best months are in Sept/Oct and worst June/July but my panels are at an angle of 22 deg, North facing which is not ideal in Winter but perfect in summer. In summer in JHB we get rain and heat, both lower production... Also remember your panels will only "produce" what your load is so its difficult to predict how much you will use of the power that is possible. Also consider in low light conditions you want as many panels as possible/allowed but this means you will be "wasting" money in good conditions because your inverter may limit power production due to max (A) reached, clipping.. My plan was to install the max my inverter could cope with.....
  5. It shows the nominal PV input voltage is 370 (100V-500V) - it is at this voltage (370) that the MPPT is happiest...The 100-500 V is the operating voltage range.
  6. I believe there was talk of this being increased to 13A...
  7. Why do you have to balance the MPPT's, they are operate separately, each finding their own optimal voltage/current? When they are working, the voltages and current will be different for both of them, depending on the sun etc. but also what the draw on the load is, they 2 MPPT's will match the load drawn and their voltages/current may be different, this is by design. If you are talking about individual panels in each STRING, then you are correct, but not across the 2 strings, they STRING MPPT's will act independently of each other.
  8. You may need to update the new 3000C battery BMS to enable it to work with the older 3000X..There are many threads with the relevant details.
  9. Also, generation Vs Consumption....%kW inverter and 6075W installed panels.
  10. You have just discovered the solar power problem; optimization of solar production. Some people have fancy PI systems to heat geysers etc when the sun shines and then turn off when the PV production is low... Depending on where you are situated, a rule of thumb; In Winter you'll probably get 4 * 4.8= 20kWh/day In Summer (in JHB, I get my peak yield in Sept, Oct) max of 6*4.8 = 29 kWh/day if there no cloud, rain, high temperatures etc. Of course that is over the entire day, so to perfectly optimize your load will have to mirror PV production, which is virtually impossible. I cook on gas and have a solar tube assisted geyser which helps. Use whatever power you have to charge your batteries and then deplete your batteries from 10pm to 7am. make use of 10am-2pm solar production to heat geyser etc...You have to align your load with solar production which is very difficult to do..
  11. I see that there are a number of inverters that allow for battery input voltages from 80V up to 495 Volts, so batteries can now be added in series instead of parallel. The charge/discharge current is limited to 50A which makes for small diameter DC battery cabling. What other benefits would using a HV inverter provide? Is this the way inverters a re going to move?
  12. What is your daily average of power produced by the panels? Most people get about 4 X Installed PV in Winter and 6 (max) x PV installed in summer (provided there's no rain, of course). If you're getting that total spread over the day then its about right.
  13. I have though about this as well. What bothers me is that if one waits too long (years), the future panels will be more efficient and of higher capacity. Adding these new panels to my current, "old", panels/strings will provide no more power because as I understand it, in series, the panel that is producing the lowest current is the max current that the string can provide. Is this correct? One would then have to sell the "old" panels and buy all new to gain some benefit, an expensive exercise considering panels have a claimed 20yr lifespan. Mmmmmm..I might have to get a few more now!
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