occuplus

i want to build 16s10p battery from 32700 6ah lfp 3c cells with 100a bms. i ll use 2p 0.15mm nickel strip. AI says it s not enough for series connection! a-Should i use 2 layers of 0.15mm? (or 1 layer 0.15mm s enough) or 1 layer 0.20mm ? Any comment appreciated. thnx for help.

i m building a diy lfp bttry from used 32700 6Ah cells. i measured each one s capacity n IR. and sorted 16s6p using excel based "RePakr" Why 8. series is --""dev from average mAh""-- is so high/(low)? 2025-11-23 Repackr 48v28Ah 16s6p moducell.xlsm

im new to this bms n cant find instructions in English. Dont want to see magic smoke again. So step by step a- B- to battery main negative b-B1-b16 to cells' positive. c-B+(leftest balance cable) to battery main positive d-P- n B+ terminal to Load/charger e-Apply charge voltage to wake up BMS is this correct? thnx for help.

i wanna build 8s9p 32700 lfp pack a-should i fold 4s to 4s as attached picture? (i didn't add all paralels.) b-Should i fold 5p on 4p ? c-Does it matter B- B+ on inner sides or outer sides? Thanks for help.

i have some new cells leftover from my e-moped battery n used ones. (32700 lfp) i want to build a pack using IR and Capacity. (will be used in solar powerwall at shed n 8s park for portable powerpack) i fully charged cells n waited 6 months then voltage check. and made a excel sheet then distribute them using excel based repakr. (i made one before 24s5p) i highlighted ones below 3v n [some cells will go to ewaste w no voltage] the ones with 7~ IR will go to 16s; 21~will go to 8s pack. ------G series G001-G126 13yellow H01-50 3yellow 126-13+50-3=160 cells 16s10p pack ------H51-124 1yellow so 73 cells >can be 8s9p pack a-Is there anything else should i consider? b-or i should use all cells except ones without voltage? (i ll use active balancer BMS w 600mA balance current) Thanks for help. 2025-08-10 lfp Cell IR Capacity.xlsx

I m building a battery pack from used cells 32700 lfp. 16s10p. These r extracted from medical devices powertools scooters. etc. That company filed - n + side with a power tool. This cell shows 100 mOhms rusted place or 7mOhm sides depend on the probe place . How can fix it or should i spotweld close to side. Thnx for help

Im afraid to measure 230v circuits. Once blew mm s internal fuse. Is it just multimeter in continuity mode n probes one s on N the other s at PE while inverter is on?

There s no real earth. N n PE connected at inverter. U r correct i need to real earth n RCD. Just a smaĺl fridge s working at this system n 12v car fridge.

Inverter s out there are 3 cables N L and PE. I ve put all those MCB as seen on picture. Is it ok or i should just use L for mcb and others just use wago? Thnx

Charged another 100Ah lfp Now Phoenix can start mini fridge. W 2 100Ah blue carbon LFP s +1 for phoenix. That old fridge need a lot amps to start.

i was using my cheap, noisy and unefficient chinese AIO [a voltronic clone VM 1000watt] for a mini fridge(40w nominal wattage n 1,2Kwh per day consumption) n charge my e-moped (72v battery charger user 240watts) upgraded to Pheonix 12 500 Schuko (surge is 900VA) n when i open inverter even red led doesnt light. It just goes offline. Is there any simple fix (like a supercapacitor)? i dont want to use 12 800 or 1200 cos cabling gets too thick. (i checked all cables, fuses n breakers work with cheap inverter)

i want to mount Multiplus 48 1200Va on my camper. a-C side UP is ok? b-on AC out side what size fuse should i use? i couldnt found those on manual. Anyone can help? thnx

SmartShunt still works. SmartSolar burnt

When i connect battery/PV to upperside 1> Positive 3>Negative is it correct? 2 and 4 s for load?

While trying to upgrade the 12v system in my caravan to a 48v; i used wrong color on the cables and because I was in a hurry I connected the battery to the busbar with reverse polarity and Within 3 seconds, a slight sound and a strong burning smell came. Victron SmartSolar 150 35 Victron SmartShunt 500A and the cheap DC-DC converter burned. The technician of the seller I bought the product from said that it could not be repaired because the PCB was covered with foam, and most likely the MOSFEDs burned; when I entered the product serial number, the importer of the product I reached said similar things. There is no polarity protection on the battery side on SmartSolar (it has on the PV side) I learned that those who buy this product will not make such simple mistakes. I ve learned a good lesson for 300 Euros + VAT. Is it possible that I can find the burned components on the PCB when I remove the foam myself? The picture is not up to date but the components r the same