occuplus

Bypass diodes only protect cell groups inside a single panel. They do not isolate an entire shaded panel from a string.
In your case: Morning: The new panels are shaded they limit string current Midday: All panels clear OK .Afternoon: The old panels shade first same problem, reversed. Because a series string must pass the same current through every panel, the weakest (shaded) panel dictates the operating point. The MPPT can only track one compromise point, not two different irradiance profiles.
Put the 2 strings on diffrent Mppt's. Most systems gain more kWh/day by separating shaded arrays, even if each string runs at a lower voltage. Just ensure adequate start up voltage on the 3 panel string .

Hi, no one seems to be answering me, so I found the problem myself. I used an external power supply (10 V) and discovered that the driver transistors were faulty. I replaced them, and everything is working fine now. Thanks

I found this for the Deye 8kW (Seems to be similar to your inverter). Max passthrough current is 50A. Does not state what the max AC charging current is for your inverter. Is the 190A i see with the solar I am not sure, unfortunately. But looking at the SANS current handling ratings, 6mm2 is good for 49A max. The passthrough current of 50A already exceeds that. It still looks like you need the 10 on the input because the passthrough current of 50A does not include the charging portion of the batteries also. 10mm2 can handle 67A which is about 15kW. So it leaves you with 7/8kW to charge the batteries while simultaneously supplying full load.

1 strip is enough for each series strip but I would rather use 2 strips. Each series strip then connected to a busbar to make up the pos and neg terminals.

No... Unless the total load (power drawn from the panels) are exactly the same. Remember, the PV panels only supply whatever the demand is. Having more panels, all at exactly the optimum angle, etc. will still deliver less power if the demand is smaller for that particular house. Obviously, as @mzezman stated, any difference in panel direction and angle between the two systems will likely result in a difference in PV supply if both loads are the same.

Went ahead with the suppliers suggested method, by not using the ATS port, as the delay is around 90 seconds and they stated that it is not that reliable.
The inverter is performing good so far. Over 120 days now running, and not one single issue.

On older Deye models, you had a visible setting called "Island Mode" which you could enable to get this signal working. On the newer OG model, this setting has been removed, and behavior is controlled via a combination of dip switch settings on the ATS port Gen Signal and Gen Charge options Grid detection status.
Configuration in the Inverter Menu. Make sure the following are set:
Gen Signal = Enable
Gen Charge = Enable (only if you're actually using gen charging)
Grid Charging = Disable (if you’re trying to simulate a full off-grid scenario)
Bypass = Disable (or the inverter may pass grid through, negating island detection)
Output Mode = Inverter Priority (not Line Priority)
EPS Output = Enabled
The reason you're seeing constant 230V at the ATS port even with the grid connected is likely because:
The inverter has not properly detected the grid as "present" OR It's in a mode that allows grid passthrough, meaning it doesn't enter full off-grid “island” mode, and therefore the relay output never disables
Also, this 230V is not meant to be used as power, only as a signal voltage to drive a relay coil. It is not a switched output

I agree with @Sidewinder When you put a large, steady AC load on the system (heaters, air fryers, stove plates, geyser, etc.) you force the inverter to take maximum available PV power, because the inverter now has a demand big enough to absorb it. It will show the true capability of the PV + MPPTs, because now the inverter is no longer deciding “I don’t need more PV”.This eliminates 80% of the confusion people have when comparing Sunsynk vs Victron vs Kodak vs anything else.

Its not as simple as that - unless you are 100% certain that your panels and neighbours' panels are facing the same direction (to the degree) and are the same spec - its difficult to compare apples to apples. The charge rates / load / inverter efficiencies etc all play into it.

Lots of variables here. The first thing to check is the situation of the panels. Are yours facing the same direction, tilted at the same angle etc? Are they same panels? Is there any shade falling on your panels?

Also what are the loads and what is the state of charge (SOC) of the battery?

Earlier this morning, my inverter was pulling 3.5 kW from the panels. But the battery was fully charged by 10:00, and so now the inverter just pulls what it needs to service the loads. At midday, with the heat pump running, it's probably going to be demanding about 2.7 kW from the panels because that's all it will need.

I have a Goodwe inverter. These have four different modes of operation. Usually one uses "general" and then the inverter is constantly balancing PV, grid, battery and loads. If I put it into "off grid" mode then now it doesn't worry about grid and - to finally get to the point - my panels tend to produce a bit more power (or the inverter pulls more from them). So the design and the firmware for the inverter can make a difference to PV performance. But you're talking about 50% relative to your neighbour. I would not expect Sunsynk and Victron to perform identically, but I would also not expect one to give double the performance relative to the other.

You panels are split north and west. This should give you a lower midday peak, but also PV power later into the day.

The main thing here is that your system services the demand from your home with a bit to spare in case there's an early morning outage. That's a better measure than what's coming in from off the roof.

Can I just add something about surge currents. A 120W fridge can have a peak surge current of 1400W. Not apply this to your Aircon and vacuum cleaner or do as @abd7 suggested and provide the value. If not done we are just sitting in the dark. Further even
It might not be a matter of fitting all HF or LF in a box. Each manufacturer can have it's own criteria when the unit goes into overload.
Some none PV inverters even on LF would apply only a 10-20% above full time power to trip.

As far as I can tell, no Felicity documents provide any information on surge capacity, so they do not guarantee anything beyond the rated power (unlike the Voltronic products).
The 'surge capacity' of LF inverters is often misunderstood. The output transformer provides excellent filtering and buffering capabilities - but the energy storage potential is still less than 1/2 of a phase cycle. So 10ms or so. This makes absolutely no difference to motor/compressor start-ups which require a second or more of surge power.
This sort of longer term surge is provided by the drive electronics, and the manufacturer sets the limits on what the drive electronics will supply.
Surprisingly, HF inverters have substantial advantages in this regard. HV bus capacitors are cheaper, lighter and smaller than a LF transformer, and generally store a LOT more energy. Also, the high frequency switching also allows for very rapid increase of power delivery to the DC bus, when required. So modern HF inverters often end up with better short duration surge capabilities than LF inverters.

Just to clarify. This 5-9V supply the + goes to B- and - to P-. This should give a beep and all should work fine. Only briefly touch the 2 leads from this supply.
I have tried using 3 different multimeters for the wake up and neither could do the trick. The above works every time.

2022-JK-BMS.pdf

both B- including balancing B- wire to main negative
B1 onward to cells positive terminals (from the most negative cell onward), and B+ will join the last actually connected B-lead (probably B16 in a 16S battery)
P- is power source/load negative connection and + connection is to battery's positive end for source/load
If you don't have the switch, then a voltage of around 5V between P- and B- should wake up the BMS

@Michaelza Unfortunately that's is the issue I have with this brand of inverter. We replaced the inverter with a brand new one, same issue. Had a couple of solar expert come and try to sort out this issue to no success, they tried adding capacitors to my setup did not work. SynSynk/Deye was contacted with no solution. My only solution at this point was to switch off the grid during the day as well. If you find a solution please do share.

A clamp meter will only be able to measure apparent power. Under grid-tied mode an inverter may only generate with a power factor of 1 (with some tolerance). So the reactive part of your load will be offloaded to the grid. This means there will be current flowing, but your meter should not measure any consumption, as it should only measure real power.

No ..
 
Your internal consumption is actually 571 + 20 - ( 252 + 265 ) = 74W , which is roughly the same as the average on the Sunsynk
You have load on UPS as well as essential. Internal sunsynk power usage is not shown as load from what I know

Just know that your definition and Eskom's definition for off-grid may vary.
I could save you some money. With your existing inverter, what about:
1 opening the inverter and replacing the noisy fans with lower noise ones
2 taking out the fans and installing an extraction system with a fan outside
3 encasing the inverter and filling it with Bitcoin mining coolant

The windows example is not correct. Deye makes the Sunsynk inverter. Deye makes their firmware for them as well. The deye team do the firmware updates for Sunsynk inverters too. Lol. So the functionality of the inverter is exactly the same.
Their websites and apps differ though. The new deye cloud website is different to Sunsynk but just as good as Sunsynks. The apps are different but eventually the same functionality. Again, the new deye cloud app is decent enough.
They are essentially the same thing, just depends on the local support available and the price. Buy whichever of the two, they are the same thing.

Your old batteries are 15cell
The new ones are 16cell, thus the nominal 48V for the 15cell whereas the 16cells are nominal 51V
You could parallel them with other 15cell batteries of the same chemistry. This would mean voltage controlled Inverter settings as another 15cell Battery will probably not communicate with your current Battery BMS.
If you are experimentally inclined, then knock on the door of @WannabeSolarSparky who actually reconfigured his 15cell batteries.

I have no experience with these cells but personally I would want to use the good cells. Those that self discharged to lower than 3.1V I would dump as they would discharge the good cells all the time during balancing.
Just my 2c.

messy but doable... ideally you should still have a mini DB on the output side of the inverter, though... Earth-Neutral bonding contactor/relay and GFI/EL switch and then a socket for whatever you want to power...

spotweld is the best option. the cells will rust further on the exposed scratched surface, the anti oxidation coating was removed.
I used to do the same, grind the spotweld leftovers off to make a smooth surface for future spotwelds, until I saw that the cells rust on the grinded areas and over time the rust spreads over the anode to form bumps under the cell wrapping.
I now salvage cells by grinding(dremel) the original spotwelds off between cells, trim the original spotweld to the desired shape, and spotweld nickel strips over the original spotweld.