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Everything posted by KLEVA

  1. Realise this is a late response - We use this configuration at the office (The Ellies Invertor on Trolley). We have connected a 30A PWM Controller (Used to even be able to by Ellies ones, but ours was just sourced as Generic - with LCD display - Think Ecco is the brand), and then have 400W of 100W panels (2 + 2 configuration - 2 in Series, 2 in Parallel) so as not to exceed the Max DC voltage of the PWM Controller. Since we only run a few Laptops, a small Server and the ip phones, +- 30W of LED lights and fibre router. This setup has been tested without mains power and has lasted over 2 days (
  2. Just reread your question - apologies, but most of what I discussed was about putting panels in Series together, not 2 strings in parallel (and for some reason I couldn't edit my post). Coulomb's response above is more accurate for your scenario.
  3. Not standard but more common than you think, and in itself not a CoC fail, the wires just have to be clearly marked.
  4. My first thinking is NO No matter how you match disparate panels you will always end up with lost of losses that are normally not worth it. That said, you can get close, but you have to understand that there will be losses, and it will never add up as before. Ideally you should replace all panels at the same time. Financially we know you can't, so read below: Here is a generic (based on an idiot who financially can't afford to replace all panels AKA me): Know the Voltage from your panels (real, not just the Vm displayed) Know the physical size of your panels (sounds wie
  5. Whoops - Missed the approximate sizing question (although this does go back to Wilfreds response about lifestyle change, and my response about huge and varied). PS: Still recommend you get and installer to accurately assess and/or a local power forum user to double check Your usage is just a bit over mine, so describing my sizing may help (I am broke and my credit card is only in debt due to the solar stuff I have bought!): FAIL - I started with basic deep cycle 100Ah batteries - Calcium/Calcium, but while these are suitable for lake/dam boats and basic caravanning, these are not
  6. Hi @Tbird, firstly welcome to the forum. There are a few choices with Geyser/Water Heating: Switch to Solar Geyser with a GeyserWise and some Evacuated Tubes - First Prize; Pros - Almost free; Almost never have no hot water; Cons - Costly to initially set up (R22k or less in your case); Has a electricity backup and usage when multiple days of no sun. Change to Gas Geyser - Second Prize; Pros, you only spend what you use; On demand heat, faster than geyser; Cons - Setup can still be pricey and gas is not free; Heat Exchanger - I am not 100% familiar with this tech, but
  7. Hi @plonkster, I am not seeing the issue with the highlighted wire connection itself... It is just extending the connection of the thicker wire, since I can't see where that thicker wire connects, I am not immediately seeing any problem. If the thicker wire ties directly into the Mains (Municipal Supply) at this point then there still might not be a point for concern if there is a seperate Earth Leakage in the outside area. It is fairly common to NOT connect earth leakage from one DB board to another, since you have no idea what is going to be connected at that DB, and you don't want a earth l
  8. Something I have seen done in ANY areas that an get damaged via abrasion, crimping, etc: Use a short piece of cable with connectors each side that goes through the area likely to be damaged. This short piece can then be replaced without major cost/time impact on installation when ness. As an example: I use this method for ANY cable that runs from the inside to outside my Camper Van. It breaks, it is quick and simple and cheap to fix.
  9. Surprised that it is the motorquip shutting down with 85W, my experience has more been along the line of the laptop charger just not working due to the modified sine wave. Some things to be aware of though - VA & Watts are horribly interchanged on cheaper equipment, and there is a big difference. A lot of equipment with capacitors inside that are not high end equipment, will allow more than than 2A of 220VAC as "inrush" current, so easily tripping the Motorquip's 2 point something limit; Be aware that Motorquip invertors are usually labelled at the MAX Wattage, but are usually designe
  10. Glad you sorted. For those who may come across this query in future - You can contact @Camel on this forum via PM and he will be able to send you a price, or advise further.
  11. Thanks for Info. My call is to charge the 210 bank with a max of 25A when charging to 58VDC (for removing Sulphates/Equalising), but at 10-12A for normal float and for just a smidge under 54V. Those equalisers are decent HA02's which I use so know they work well. Forgotten the Axpert setting (the number to set in the programming), but treat them as normal Lead Acid settings (the default) and you should be good. I think the default Axpert settings are just over 58VDC for equalising, and about 54.4 for float - but double check with a meter at batteries to counter for any loss on the cables
  12. @Richard Mackay - If that were true, many on this forum would be rich and famous If life worked that way I would be a multi-millionaire instead of having to have restarted my career at the bottom rung at 48. From a senior Project Manager with Telecommunication specialty in the Oil and Gas Industry, working internationally, to unemployed for 4 years... Changes your perspective... You take what you can or can build up on your own.
  13. @Jaco de JonghNo, you right, did go off topic, forgot that the question was about realistic results. Think my brain was more concerned about people breaking their systems...
  14. @Jaco de Jongh - On a 6 panel 250W/panel system, I have seen over 1500W according to an Axpert. I have also seen over 100W on my small PWM controller while out on the dam from a single 100W rated panel (3.85 A @ 27.2VDC = 104.7W, I recorded it on my phone) while charging 2 x 100Ah batteries, one of the reasons I switched back to a 50W panel - they started bubbling (@under 4A they never should have, but understood that they are cheap/nasty batteries). I also understand that temp and distance/cable size will make a difference and reduce it overall before the normal household input - but in my ex
  15. Sorry, because of a question on another post - Did Mecer figure this out, or did your solar installer (you didn't make that clear)? Battery charging should be within specifications of the manufacturer (how many amps, what voltage, etc) I might have missed a post where you discussed your batteries, and I tend to be very conservative with mine, so I can only advise as follows (voltage of the bank is not relevant as we are discussing charging current): Please bear in mind that these are generalities and the manufacturer specification should be followed first. This is only
  16. He he - @Coulomb - I love the fact that assume Mecer have any clue how to repair these things in South Africa - Little bit of naivety from living in a decent 1st world country? Sent 2 separate Axperts in, with separate faults and I just got told to replace the entire unit. In SA they behave a bit like Apple - No clue how to fix, and no inclination to solve the problem. Unless you actually tell them what to replace or what component to order, they are "almost" useless locally (as technical advice/fix). Admittedly, if I tell them what part, then they actually do try their utmost to get it
  17. I appreciate the focus on Solar and off-grid living, but the wording of this article is horribly technically either incorrect or gives the wrong impression: 8000W from 6 Solar Panels - No way that can be true: Show me the solar panel that can produce 1000+W that is available on the market or even the one he apparently "designed". 8000W per day is easy, and there are a lot of people on this forum who can do it, and do a lot more, so either a remarkable solar panel, or not described correctly, in which case, not very impressive. I have a 5 KW generator that I use for backup, does t
  18. Since we going "off-topic": Mine was a non-turbo rotary engine Mazda 616, but with a faulty 2nd gear in an Automatic 3 gear box... Only way to drive the thing was to use the accelerator as an ON/OFF button. Nearly snapped a few passenger necks when trying to drive in traffic
  19. Yes, even just connected to Mains this can damage the internals of a Voltronics (normally MOSFETS first) before the fuse blows. Sometimes it is just the supply from Eskom or Municipality that goes nuts (had a few internal household items blow at same time), or even a spurious induction from a lightning strike nearby. I personally still haven't found something to protect it properly, so advice for future failures would be helpful from others? My current Imeon doesn't seem as sensitive as the Axpert to those spikes and has just tripped itself and all the circuits before the Invertor.
  20. If there are more outlets to the pool, then find out why they are not working, an possibly reconnect them. My best thought though is to divert the pipe from the pool to a a fountain (spout up with a little dancing & peeing Ceres looks cute). Can even do that without a pipe diversion by connecting to the end of the existing pipe going into the pool (just might not look as neat). That will aim the pressure elsewhere and then gravity will take over, so drastically reducing the current/force from being in a single direction, and the water still ends up back in the pool. What are t
  21. @plonkster - Sorry, I don't understand what that means to us. Are they getting any financial benefit or less payment to government? Sorry for my ignorance here, but I don't understand the current Germany situation and why it is now a benefit to add to their load? I fully understand that Germany's feedback to grid has nearly reduced their municipal power to 0, that I know... I just don't quite understand the politics/legalities/reason as to why your news article is good news?
  22. @phil.g00 - Hope you misread my statements and comments, or I might not have been clear in what I was trying to say about the reverse (I was comparing them to manufacturer's who use the lower standard) - I was agreeing with the fact that ARTSolar use the higher value on their product. ARTSolar are brilliant when they have stock available, and I would definitely at least give them first shot locally. My only negative with them is that they only manufacture 2 sizes at a time, and keep no older stock to expand existing installations. So if you did an install 5 years ago, then sorry you have to bu
  23. @pauljatho - Some very large loads, so need to consider what you can do without during load shedding, or can reduce drastically. There is no doubt in my mind that if you can afford the capital outlay of a good Victron installation then you should go that route first, It may hurt the pocket, but you will never regret going that way if properly installed and advised. (PS: I don't sell or can afford Victron myself - It is a goal I aspire to) Next, as almost beaten into you by the guys above, a 40kW load per day is actually quite large for a house, you need to try reduce this with other
  24. KLEVA

    Axpert King 5kW

    And teach the wife not to use her hairdryer or curlers when you not expecting a 2000W+ draw
  25. @Vaal - A small diagram might be better to describe, and it also depends on how the panels are connected together and what they will be connected to (invertor?) before the pump. For some info - Some home installations definitely have some panels installed on one side of the roof, and then other panels installed on the other side of their roof, some for morning, and some for afternoon. So the configuration is most likely possible. Just give us a bit more info about your situation. Many on this forum would be happy to offer info. PS: Welcome!
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