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dreadlk

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  1. I wish I was only using 700W of power. I am using about 2.4KWh almost all day. Before I got the PV it was at about 1.4KWh in the daytime but since we have all this excess PV I just let the ACs run if the Sun is out. It saves on battery power at night as the place is already cool.
  2. I highly suggest saving your money for batteries in USD so as to keep ahead of local inflation and devaluation. That is what I did over a period of years until I had enough to buy the whole system. I use LifePO4 batteries and they can go from 100% to 20% SOC at night but there is still a gap I put in my usage time when I am on the grid between 5:30pm and 11pm. Due to the possibility of late night power outages I would rather keep the energy in reserve until it's time to go to bed. I can also get my batteries near full capacity by 11am in the summer, I have only had the system running since August so I missed out on the peak months of April through July. I suspect that I can get them charged even faster then. I have been thinking about cheap ways to utilize more power like building some of my own battery packs but I am not all that confident in the cheaper cells that they sell out of China.
  3. I get what the OP is looking for and I have never found anything that is geared towards PV systems. Ideally you want something that has a list if Inverters, Batteries, Panels and Electrical boxes that you can place on a sheet and then connect the wiring. At this point I have found it's easier to just use Photoshop and use device drawings that are on the Net and then set up Multiple layers in Photoshop. DC wiring and AC wiring Layers will make removing one set of wiring to examine another set much easier.
  4. That’s very coincidental. My 10KW system also charges the batteries by 12 noon and after that we desperately try to use the excess power washing and drying clothes plus running a split AC in the bedroom all day. I still see that about 33% of the power still goes to waste.
  5. I am in the process of putting in a 24 panel system on a brand new Spanish tile clay roof and the hooks have already been installed. I did extensive research on tile mounting and found out a few things. Do not grind down the tile on the bottom, it would make no difference unless you can lower the hook down further which is probably not likely. In any case it is recommended that you only grind of a channel in the top tile and just enough that the tile rest a bit lower. You will must have a gap at the bottom as the bottom tile cannot move and it will be cracked if the wind pushes the panels downward and hits into a tile that is resting on the batten. The top tile can move so long as the nail or screw holding it at the rear is not tightened too much. So the hook touching the top tile is not a big issue. Bottom line is that there is always going to be some Gaps on the tiles that have the hooks under them. You can minimize that with some grinding of the top tile but do not try to grind out too much or the tile will crack when the hook moves with the wind. BTW the tiles on the roof do not stop all of the water when it rains. There is always water getting blown under every tile and many roofs have several cracked tiles. What makes a tile roof water resistant is the membrane or Felt that is under the tiles. Even a roof with perfect tiles will leak if the membrane underneath it has a tear in it. So don't worry to much about water getting blown under the tile. If your membrane is good it will just run off the side of the roof.
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