MuneebK

Not tight for space at all. I was just wondering if there was any tech differences between the two. Or power delivery differences. Plan was always to have at least 2 batteries. Starting with 10 now and later adding capacity for 10 more

This is I love forums. I just asked what battery is better and we’ve got a technical discussion on geyser usage by power and time 😂 Never change guys.

@Mattyboy @HennieL Thanks! Out of curiosity could I ask why you guys prefer the larger RW range just for my knowledge? Also in terms of capacity in terms of duration of use @HennieL I was planning on adding more capacity in the future. No plan to be fully off grid. Ideally 24 hours of backup power but it’s not necessary right now. But definitely some usage at night for an hour or two. AC is 1500 BTU and the geyser is 200L ~3Kv if I remember correctly.

Figuring out what to install. Can't figure out what to do between these two options. Hoping to power lights, wifi, geyser, an AC, and one appliance (eg. microwave, airfryer, etc.) at a time

Yeah that was the thought. Weirdly in this case out of the two I listed the Victron is 5k cheaper.

So shouldn’t be any hassle to upgrade since the thick cables are already in, right? Thanks!

Hi, Looking to add a simple UPS system to my house for now with Li batteries for load shedding charging from the grid. Currently have a system with a old Solarwize 24v inverter (10 years). It still works fine but it chows through lead acid batteries and I wanted a setup that I could expand in the future and would be reliable. These two stood out, if there’s a better option, give a shout. Our max load currently is about 1200W with computers and lights and TV (usually more around 7-800) but I’d like to start adding to it as well. Like a fridge and and AC or two. The sunsynk is around 20k and the Victron around 15k. Which was odd because I’d read everywhere that Victrons were more expensive. Maybe the Victron needs extra pieces? I read that in some places but didn’t see that in the manual for just a grid connection. Also wanted to ask what switching from a 24V system to a 48V system would entail. Almost everything seems to be at that voltage in the market. Although there are some decent lower wattage 24V systems. i was considering for a bit just using a drop in Lithium battery in my current system but it felt like it’d be a waste if a battery and that money would better go to saving for a better system. Thanks! Sorry for the ramble.

Trying to fix my setup but this stuff is a rabbit hole of information and I just need a sanity check since I don't know what I'm doing but I'm trying to do my due diligence. I'm replacing our lead acid batteries since they no longer function for more than 30 minutes after 3 years of use but particularly after the recent Eskom mess it'd last 5-6 hours fine in the beginning but it was crippled by the end of it with the constant discharge-charge cycles (I believe). They are connected to a 24v Solarwise Pure Sine Wave Inverter like this one 2500VA/2200W 24V Pure Sine Wave Inverter - Solarwize (solarwizeafrica.co.za). For longevity it seems that now changing to a lithium ion set up would be cheaper in the long run. I've been trying to research the best options in a very limited budget (<20K) and from what I've gathered it seems that my best option would be to use a Mercer, Freedom Won, or Hubble auxiliary battery since they have their own BMS systems and it's the most plug and play. We used 2x12v @ 200ah in the past and it would easily last 7-8 hours during load shedding, I'm sure it could last longer but I never did a full test. So I'm considering just using 2x12v @ 100ah with a lithium ion setup. For Freedom Won they only sell 12v auxiliary batteries and for Hubble the only 24v option I could find is about 6k more expensive so I thought it's better to go for 12v. There shouldn't be a huge difference between 24v alone vs 12v in series from what I've research but correct me if I'm wrong. Couldn't personally find anything by Mercer that was in stock. On every Hubble page it says I need to connect the batteries with external cell balancers. I looked up some and the HA-02 were available from Ecopec. But I just wanted to confirm if they are necessary? I found this video that said the internal BMS system should allow the batteries to work fine since the batteries should be fully charged most of the time (Maintaining a 24V+ Battery Bank with a Victron 12V Battery Balancer - YouTube) Is this a reasonable set up? And most importantly, is it safe?