Felix Bosch

I agree as the 50watt need to go into something and the most likely place is heat and they are not really getting that hot. I will try and do some more tests in due time, removing all bulbs too to see current draw without any in circuit too. I am sure there is a logical explanation as to why this circuit is using so much. Also re test a few different makes on the single circuit diagram and see what is typical too

It is a single circuit with the 18 lamps, nothing else. I have tested the complete circuit and also 5 single 3w globes in a simple circuit on the bench too pulling 270/300mA thus the watt calculation for a single unit. Will do some more tests for different manufacturers and also check how much the day/night switch add as it will probably also take some. My other single ligts and even strings of 5/8 also do not even blib above normal inverter house appliance “noise”

I do know normal incadecent will waste lots of energy is heat, was thinking of 15w units that are mostly resistive so at least not the 40+ watts wasted by the LED in driver. The power factor at 0.5 is even giving 30/40Watts and my measurements on 18 lamps shows 900+ Watts so it is not far out. You do not state that you agree / not agree that they use 40/50 watt per unit in energy where they are maketed at 3W and 95 % energy saving which I call is bull from suppliers and just bad advertising in general. Modifying new units is just not viable to take all appart and get them nicely sealed again including additional soldering onto micro coponent boards…i have more than 80 lamps all over thus will need to find a new alternative that gives good enough light and not consume more than 5w real power!

So I tried to do the prudent thing some time back to replace my 20 outside garden light bulbs from 60watt Incadecent to 3W LED golfballs… packaging and specs declare 95% Energy saving and only 3watt used …. What a load of bull…. I now converted to solar and the use graph is very visible showing that 20 LEDS use nearly 1kW ! Thus on average 50watt each! So being able to, I build a small circuit and tested the current which is 280 to 300mA (tested a few bulbs) thus P = VxIxpf gives 230 x 0.28 x 0.8 = more or less 50watt or more… so how can it at all be claimed that they save any energy? They are turned on 8 hours per night so that is a huge lie and waste of money ito energy saving? I know they may last longer, run cooler and all that, but bottom line is they save NO energy and drain my inverter and money? Any one else found the same ?

Thanks for the inputs, the pump I have is 120 lpm max (the specs for large house multiple showers and appliances best 70-110 lpm?) at 40m head, it delivers the 400kpa or 4 bar (restricted by control valve) that is suppose to be the munic supply pressure and i must say for first time in years showers that are not just a drizzle… yeeah 🙂 i will investigate the DC pump options for future and maybe the rain water supply for other water use where pressure not such an important requirement then. It seem the option to power would be most optimal to hook onto main house Solar PV then.

I have not calculated the exact flow rate, but head is up to at least 2 storeys from ground for geysers, 4 bathrooms and extensive area. 0.75kw was the next level down and 1.1 was also recommendation from plumber to get to municipal pressures and not have to worry about flashing toilet while shower is on. The AC pump is fitted and done and working very well even with multiple showers same time, now just need to keep it running at all times.

I have no option to move tanks to roof or higher than ground level unfortunately. The water buffer is 3000 litres JoJo and yip house is extended so would not have a smaller than 1kw pump to supply Bathrooms, geyser, etc.

@Kalahari Meerkat Yes the specs for pump (Johntech cpw 180) shows only 5A current, peak start could by more than double. Pump is close to house and I run normal tshwane supply now to pump when tap is opened. I have UPS for small other stuff, then on loadshedding I can bypass water input using the municipal pressure, but nuisance when one want to take shower at 5am and no eskom, first going out to manualy switch over, ( I can probably add electrical failover valve maybe for this to happen auto) . I am planning a 8Kw solar system close future too so maybe just add the R10/15K ( best i found for 1kw solar system just for this) to this R180k and be done with it. A 12V DC motor is good option if you start fresh but i now have invested in AC motor pump alreasy.

Hi all, I had no option than to add water buffer supply to support during water outages. This is run by a 1.1 kw booster pump with auto control to the house that is 220VAC , i now need the cheapest option to supply power to pump during loadshedding outages. I will add full solar to house in due time , but for now need a separate solution with either inverter + batt or with additional Solar panel supported by Eskom when available, the Pump spec only gives 7A current and does not spec peak startup Current. What options do I have?