RookieRod

The max PV input is 4400 Watt. That is 8 of your 550W panels . 10 Panels 5500W is exceeding your limit by 25%. So 8x550 W Panels max. · I currently have 6 panels. My roof is like a “T” section. The top of the “T” slopes facing north and south. The upright of the “T” slopes face east and west. No trees or any other sun obstruction on any of the slopes, just morning sun angles. The existing 6 panels are mounted on the north slope of the right bar of the top of the “T”. Can definitely mount one more and maybe 2, (but not sure must measure) next to the existing panels. But facing exactly the same orientation (left side of the top bar of the “T”) as the existing 6, I can easily mount 4 extra panels on a roof on the western side of the “T”. The existing 6 are on the eastern side of the “T”. But I would only install another 2 panels as 8 is the maximum. The inverter only has 1 mppt so you cannot use different orientation roofs spaces. · I would assume that my explanation above sorts this out. I will change the Geyser element to 2kW or even lower if avialble. · I have seen on google that 1.5KW elements are freely available but assume that 1KW could be found if I try hard enough. Then heat the geyser when excess power is avialable. a Timer on the geyser supply can be be added to assist you. I find the cost of these heating systems expensive. As you are a pensioner and only 2 adults this should work well for you. My idea and please comment. · I install another 2 x 550w panels on the other “T” of the roof facing the same as the existing 6. · Change the element in the geyser to 2KW · Ultimately I would like in order of applying energy to heat water: o The 16 evacuated tubes to heat the water aided at all times by surplus power from the solar inverter. o I would only like grid power when the tubes and PV cannot heat the water due to continuous days of cloud cover etc. My Geyserwise controller is set to the following settings every day of the week. · 04H01 to 10H00 at 60°C · 10H01 to 16H00 at 50°C · 16H01 to 21H00 at 60°C · 21H01 to 04H00 at 50°C · Please comment as these were what I was told to do by the useless solar contractor. · I have no objection if the water temp rises to above 60°C but must not exceed whatever is the upper safety level temperature. Finally, what equipment would I need other than the installation and coupling of the two extra panels.

Some feedback Today (Sunday 2023/11/05) was a cloudless sunny day in Pretoria. I am so chuffed. Roasted a chicken and veg is Combo Microwave 50 minutes 180w and 180°C and had the dishwasher running at the same time. Used solar and battery only. All done and an hour later battery at 52V. Thanks guys, its all thanks to you

My solar hot water is 16 tube evacuated tube system and the geyser 150L. I fully realize it should have been at least 21 tubes. In hind sight I should have gone the PV electric element route, but was given terrible advice by the installer on all things solar. I found that winter generally and on cloudy days especially the water does not get hot enough on solar alone and must be boosted with the grid. My existing solar set up is a: · 5Kw 48v inverter (https://shop.thesunpays.co.za/collections/axpert-inverters/products/sacolar-wifi-compatible-5kva-5kw-pure-sine-wave-axpert-type-inverter-80a-low-voltage-mppt-parallel) · 6 x 550w panels. · The battery is a Deichmann YL-S48100 48volt; 100AH; 4.8KWH. While changing my panels (6 panels of 550W each) into 3 strings of 2 panels each, would it make sense to add an extra 2 panels of 550W each (4 strings of 2 panels) and then, as I've seen on YouTube and read on the WWW, put the surplus electricity into the geyser? Would I need more than an extra two panels? I have sufficient roof space North facing for 2 panels and an East and a West facing roof for 2 panels each. I have also read that there are two systems for solar electricity to heat hot water. Not 100% sure I understand it correctly, but this is what I think it to be. · The first is a double element, the one element connected directly to the grid and the 2nd element is connected to the inverter output and only draws electricity when there is surplus, batteries fully charged and excess in what the house is drawing from the panels. I would assume that all have thermostats that would prevent the geyser boiling. · The second is only the one element that is connected to the grid and the solar with some kind on controller to ensure that the solar system in the house doesn't fight with Eskom. However, this element is usually downgraded to about 3KW or so. Bearing in mind I live in Pretoria, in doing this would I be spending too much to save too little? Having said that I am also aware that the price of electricity as well as loading shedding will get worse before, if ever, gets better. My ultimate aim is that my hot water should be heated by the evacuated tubes, boosted by the surplus solar power and finally the grid. Your comments and suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks very much for this. I have downloaded the manual and extremely informative and got me spending a lot of time looking at YouTube and exploring the WWW. I will have to get someone in to change the panels into 3 strings of 2 panels each. I am considering enhancing my solar hot water system of evacuated tubes with solar electricity and increasing the panels at the same time I change the string of panels. Is there a topic on this on this forum, and if so how do I look for it? Thanks again

I dont know if the Inverter is connected to the battery but highly doubt do. two pictures showing the wires connected to the battery and the inverter. Should the battery be connected, and if so can I do it or must I get a professional to do it.

I contacted The Sunpays and they have confirmed that it ones of their inverters and its a "Low Voltage Sacolar inverter" They also have a dongle that I would need for the Wi-fi which I will get. The screen below. Does this mean that the solar panels are generating 395 watt into the battery Screen below Does this mean that the solar panels are sending the electricity to the system at 131 volts. If my assumptions are correct, are they good, bad or cannot comment not enough info?

Thanks Chris. On the list I attached my setting number 20 is Floating charge and set at 51.5v so shopuld be OK. I don't see the "Bulkcharge" as such but I assume it is number 19 "C.V. Charging voltage" which is also at 51.6v. Am I correct? Good news - to me anyway - boiled the kettle at 06H30 and no Grid. Right now 07H44 battery is at 52.1v.

Guys, thankyou so much for all this info. I have changed some settings and boiled the kettle twice this afternoon - plenty of sunshine - and did not use the grid. I also reset menu items 12 to 46v and 13 to 54v. Just that made the world of difference. I have read up a lot and watched YouTube as well. I am fully aware that both Google and YouTube are not the holy grail but I am now aware of what can be done. What is blatantly obvious is that I do need a monitoring system. I have a list of things I want to ask and query but that is for another time. I unfortunately do not have access to the electricity meter, but will ask the groundsman of the complex if I can be given a meter reading each day until I get a monitoring system. I am pretty certain that the equipment was purchased from "The Sunpays" but will investigate. Can anyone recommend/suggest what monitoring system I should go for? At about 17H30 this afternoon the battery was at 52 point something volts, so I am smiling like a cat at the cream. Again a big thankyou to all.

I got to do some reading and have attached the settings as per the attached. I have put an * next to the setting I have or written in what it is. Example No 12 booklet states 46.0v my setting is 49v. Please go thru this and let me know what I should change, if anything Inverter Settings.pdf

I seem to loose my way on the site. Answers as follows: Bobster: Is this momentary, or does the system draw from grid as long as the kettle is heating water? Always on while the kettle is on or any other element appliance It's noteworthy that your system can support the kettle when there's no grid. So clearly the inverter is making a decision to use the grid instead of the battery. Agree Does this happen (using grid instead of battery) when the battery is fully charged? Yes it does. Some systems can be set to allow battery discharge to different levels depending if there is or is not grid. My system will not discharge between 40% remaining if there is grid. Without grid it will discharge to 10% remainining. I would like something similar. I also have a 3kw Honda Silent Generator that is not yet coupled. A friend of mine has chosen to set his to never discharge past 80% remaining whilst there is grid. He chose to do this because he has a lot more after hours load than I do and wants to know he always has enough battery in hand when there's an outage. We will all make these decisions differently according to our needs and the capabilities of our system, Not really thought about this clearly, but will do so and would welcome suggestions. So this is an area I would look at if I were you. This assumes that you have some way of being able to access these settings and being able to see what the SOC is Scorp007 Post us a pic of the display as I cannot get any info on this make via Google. I looked around on the inverter and found a part number P/NSKSL00.0015200. Then googled the part number. Came up with a German socket wrench – Wrong road. Also Growatt (Ginverter). Went to the web site Ginverter.com. Played around a lot, landed up at Warranty and entered the serial number (JUL0CJG0EQ Found that they are zeros not “Ohh”) Entered the serial number and found the product Model is “SunicornM5000H-45 48VDC 230VAC Blue PAR 145VV (Tpt29555) See the attached File Did I mention I was a forensic auditor? My Comments I firmly believe that I have been had by an unscrupulous qualified and registered electrician and solar installer. He has subsequently emigrated to Austria and I am the sucker. I need to get an honest, suitably qualified expert to check the system and do the correct settings. I think I know what I am after, but after this realize I need advice from knowledgeable people who are not out to make a quick buck – hence me joining this forum. Some info for you guys to understand my position and what I need, not necessarily want. I am 78 and retired. My wife is paralyzed from the chest down so is immobile (cancer). All cooking on gas. Solar hot water with grid backup. I do have a 3KW Honda silent generator, but not connected. Entertainment is TV and all Apps that go with it and bridge, played 99% online. All cooking is with gas. I really need electricity 24/7 for lighting and TV. I am certain load shedding will get worse, so will get the generator connected just in case. Now not sure I’m using the correct terminology but would like the battery to supply all electricity and do so till about 40% of its power is still available. Only then if the solar cells can’t cope, the grid to take over. But the solar cells to charge all the time, conditions permitting, and obviously cut off when the batteries fully charged. Two questions. What settings would you suggest? Where do I get an honest, suitably qualified expert to check the system and do the correct settings. If only ……….. I had known of this forum before I embarked on solar. Growatt.pdf

I will gladly, but how do I get them? I am both born in the wrong era and technically challenged.

I have a similar problem but been doing some investigation and noting of events. I live in a retirement complex. What I have installed: I have solar hot water heater. I have a gas stove and oven. Sunicom M5000h-48 48VDC Inverter 4.8KWH 48volt Deichmann Lithium-ion battery YLR48100. 6 * 550 watt solar panels on the roof facing north I live in Pretoria All globes are LED and total wattage is 95watt. I have two fridges - both inverter - and 1 deep freeze, rated A+ TV, Computers and other small non element items. Backup grid electricity for the geyser is not wired thru the inverter. What I have noticed. When ever I turn on my electric kettle - 1600watt - the inverter switches to use grid electricity. This even happens mid day, cloud less sky an temp of 31C About two weeks ago we had a power outage at the retirement village. It started at 10H00 the Friday morning and power was restored at 15H30 on the Saturday afternoon. 29h30min of no power. I only was aware of the power outage on Friday night when I went to check that all doors locked etc. and saw no street lights were on. During the time of the power outage I used the TV extensively, probably 10 hours, boiled the kettle 5 times but used the gas stove to boil water after I realized that there was no grid power; used the micro wave 900watt for probably 15 minutes in total. My fridges were also on, Internet modem etc. During the daylight hours there was full sun and the temperature in the high twenties and low thirties. Both my wife and I had a hot shower on Friday night, which can only have been hot water from the solar hot water system. With the power outage, due to the prevailing circumstances, it has proved to me that the inverter and battery can handle my electricity needs without grid power backup. I can only think that there are settings in the inverter and/or battery that have been set incorrectly. I would like these settings to be that Grid power is only used whjen the battery level reaches a certain level of discharge, whatever is recommended. Having said all of that the installer of the hot water and solar power was a qualified electrician. Any advice would be welcome.