fhocorp

Hi @rowesley, you are right, but in my case i already have a raspberry and it is powered directly on the batteries via an DC-DC regulator (as you said i could use an mini PC but this is too much wiring). Yes of course i can't do anything if a fire happends at my home due to a BMS failure but i can be warned of that and calling the fire brigade. I my case, the final installation will be installed i a secure metal case (for security purposes) and a fire detector will be installed in the case. I case of fire, i can alert my neighbours about the fire (sound alarm). Yes, monitoring is mot mandatory, but i can be very useful 😁

@Coulomb Yes that i have suspected. Actually, i have tested the 3 parameters for lithium : - LI 2 : Lithium BMS for US2000C Pylontech (Not working in my case) - LI 4 : Standard BMS Protocol (Not working, LI icon flashing without communication) - LI 6 : Lithium profile without BMS communication (Working without problems but no SoC or temperatures measured). In the next month i will switch to US2000C Pylontech batteries for safety and monitoring purposes. The Pylontech batteries will be connected to the inverter via RS485 and the Solar Assistant will receive the battery status via the inverter. My 18650 Powerbank will remains in my testing part of my installation, with a link to another Solar Assistant via an USB-RS485 dongle. The second Vevor inverter will be used for my testing installation. @rowesley I will check this 😁 BMS communication is mandatory for me for monytoring purposes because i have to control the system outside of my home (and i am regulary away for work)

One question, on my inverter i have RS485 connector. Wiring is below : and my battery is 18650 based whith a Bluetooth/RS485 BMS : The RS485 connection is 2 Wire based and the inverter have 4 wire connector. After some researchs, 2 wires a half duplex connection and 4 wire are full duplex connection. I have tried multiples connections but nothing work (the "LI" icon keeping flashing as unsucessful connection) Any ideas ?

Hi @Funstar You have to modify the connectors and wiring to work. red is +12V, black is GROUND. Blue is PWM and the yellow is RPM signal.

Okay. I will try to get more information on this point. For the firmware, no chances of getting this from the supplier from analysis😔 Thanks for the information about the PV output 👍 At this time, my solar panels send too much power to the battery so it is overcharged and the inverter detect this and get in error state. I have to modify the charging rules to a lower value. Also, the cooling of the device works better when the device is fixed on the wall (my first tests were on a table lol)

@rowesley Thanks, creativity is my speciality 😁 Yes, redondancy is mandatory for me because i will have sensitive devices behind the inverters (server bay, webcams....etc). Most of the time, the outpout devices never exceed 2500W. My first approach was for having extra power when needed. My new approach is for having redondancy when an failure occurs. Your idea of connecting an on-grid inverter in the hybrid inverter output is already in my project 😙 (i have a Solarmax 3000W grid-tie inverter ready for this 🙂). Also, this will allow me to have more power via the panels (I have the power from the panel input of each inverter that will reach the battery). Theoretically, I could draw power from 2 rails of panels at the same time (1 per inverter). Each inverter can handle up to 1500W of panels (160V Max). Keeping a safety margin, I could make 1450W per inverter, which would give me 2900W of total solar power. Not bad 😉 I have completely checked the electronic board of the VEVOR hybrid inverter and except the internal USB port, i have not found any dédicated port for the syncronization board/connector ☹️ Here is a picture of the motherboard : The only connector i have found that could be the syncronization connector is near the processor : The connector in not soldered and no any text near him for information 🤨 Yes sir, but i have changed my battery design for having more capacity and adding an RS485 connection between the battery and the inverter (the inverter stops well before discharging the battery, but the fans remain activated and end up discharging the battery, which goes into safety mode. Obliged to reactivate the battery by restarting the inverter. Better management of the battery SOC is recommended, and requires communication between them). For more intensive use, i should migrate to a 48V battery but it will need to update the inverter to the 5500W model and this is not planned at this time. I will keep my project in 24V. For information,my battery is lithium ion based. Each battery module is made up of several 18650 battery rails, each fuse-protected and replaceable without soldering. Each rail (also protected by a fuse) is connected in parallel with the others, and linked to a BMS. The BMS has an RS-485 output for the inverter and a temperature sensor. Power per module is rated at 50A maximum. The battery will consist of 2 x 4Kwh modules. I'll have a total of 8Kwh and 100A maximum draw. The battery will be installed in a thermo-ventilated industrial cabinet.

@rowesley Ok, thanks for your answer. in the inverter documentation the inverter will go on bypass mode when outpout power is over the limits so i will have only 3500W of power. If an inverter fail, it bypass output to the grid. So in my configuration i will have redondancy output if one inverter fail but no more power.

@rowesley @Coulomb I have a question for you : For having more power on the AC output and using the same battery, can i connect the first inverter ac output on the grid input of the second inverter and the load output of the second inverter to my load devices ? Normally, the power of my load will be using the second inverter power and if too much power is used, the second inverter will go on bypass mode and i will use the first inverter power. If too much power is used, the two inverter will go to bypass mode and i will use the grid power. That's right ? Best Regards

Nice idea👍. In my case, after some research, i have programmed the inverters batterycharger to "Solar Only" so the batteries never get charged by the utility grid. However, when then inverter is connected to the grid, it's stay in "Standby mode" so the inverter is not completely OFF (even with the power button in OFF position) so MPPT charger could start when solar panels have sunlight. In conclusion, i have just connected the utility input of each inverter to a tuya connected electric socket and programmed the socket to power on on every morning and the invers a in "standby" state every morning, ready for charging the batteries 😁

Okay, thanks @Coulomb for your advices 👍 I will keep my installation of my two inverters in independant mode. The very boring thing is that the auto-start of the the MPPT part of the inverter that is not working. Every day, i have to manualy power on the inverter (via it's power button) for charging the batteries. For the PV charger to work, the 230V output of the inverter must be switched on, otherwise the device remains completely switched off. The frustrating thing is that if you switch it on manually in the morning and then switch it off again, the PV charger stays on until the end of the day. I'm thinking of installing a mini MPTT in the solar input branch, which will activate a relay and switch on the inverters every morning. But still, it's crazy to have to do this for a device of this price... For the fans, i have the Noctua NF-A8 inside, and no problems at this time (temperatures are correct and the device consume about 5watts max on iddle with a perfect silent operation).

Ok sir 😁 I have good knowledge in electricity but not in the triphased syncronisation part 🤐. Thanks for your help. I will keep my installation in place for two load segments and upgrade it for 3 syncronized inverters in the future. Actualy, I have received my new noctua fans for my Vevor inverters, keep you informed about the results 😁

@Coulomb Sorry, i don't understand. So i can have two independant battery (no direct connection between them) and connect only the neutral together on the AC output ? Yes i want to have a clean 3-phase connection (the two inverters, and maybe a third in future, create a 3-phase power output) for powering triphased tools like a air compressor and other tools in my lab. The most of the time will use only the first phase for powering monophased equipement (lights, computers...etc) but some days all the phases could be used. Also i don't work in my lab in the evening so most of the energy will come from solar panels during the day. Won't this cause problems, especially with phase balancing and common neutral? Updated schema :

@Coulomb Wow 😲Thanks for the information 😁 @rowesley Thanks for all the knowledge 🙏 Actually, my first Vevor is connected to a 180W solar Panel for testing. The second inverter is not connected to solar panel (not received yet). I am planning to connect 500W of solar panel on each inverter. I am wondering to connect the inverters together for having 2 phase electric output (and maybe tri-phased system for my Laboratory) but they don't have any parralel connector available. I have know that it is possible to connect the neutral output of the inverters together for multiple phase output but only if the inverters share the same input battery, that's right ? If yes, there is a way to use 2 different battery with the negative pole in common ? Here is a schema of i want :

Ok sir 😃 So this is not a real MPPT on the device ? A fake one ?

Wow, thanks for all your advice 🙏 I have replaced the faulty capacitor with the same values and followed your advice for the thermal paste (added thermal paste on all the MPPT and DC mosfets.). At this time, my inverter is working correctly, i will check Q6, Q8 and U10 when i will open the device for replacing the fans. 😃 Thanks sir 👍🙏

Today, one of my VEVOR inverters suddently reported error on the DC side (Solar Input). I have shutdown the inverter, disconnected all the cables, and waited about an hour for discharging the capacitors before opening it. I have found the capacitor on the MPPT input (680uF 200V 105*c) completely bloated. I have replaced him with a new one but i have foud that the soldering is very hard to remove enven with my dessoldering station. Bad tin used for sweating the components... @rowesley , did you encounter any difficulties when unsoldering the MPPT power bridge?

@rowesley you can send me PM if you have to contact me If required, i can also send you via PM my personal email for discuss things more calmly. OK, your problems with VEVOR support are the sames as mine. I my case, i have sent a bunch of messages about the problems that i have measured on the product (FANs noise, auto-start of the MPPT charger not working without then inverter on, 20W consumption with no load and the lack of informations about the RS232 port) and they resend a new inverter to me. So, i am not expecting support from china supplier but if i can have some informations it can me very useful. I have personnaly modified my inverters, based on my researchs and your advices for my personnal installation. I have even tried to connect the 2 inverters in parralel (on the 230V output), it works but without direct communication between the two inverters (via a dedicated port) the 230V phases are not syncronized. I am actively searching a firmware file for customize some advanced parameters (ex FANs speed should work based on temperature of the heatsink and not the load for quieter working). For the thermal grease, i will do this ASAP on my inverters (they will be installed inside a server room and i don't want to see them burning linke Easun inverters😵 For the FANS, i will never remove it ( i am not crazy 😁) but i will remplace them with high quality FANs (Noctua) for quiter working and more cooling performances. For the difference between VEVOR inverter (based on Sumry brand) and Easun, i am completely agree with your opinion. I very often have repair requests on Easons with the main fault being the inverter power bridge or the MPPT which burns out.

The Vevor EML3500-24L is a Sumry inverter made by the chinese manufacturer Shenzhen Sunray Power Co., Ltd On the alibaba website they sell it with OEM Customization options. This is here were VEVOR inverters are made. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Sumry-brand-2023-new-design-1800W_1600673209137.html I have contacted the supplier for more informations about the inverter (firmware, shematics....) for helping us. No warranty if they answer me about this. Best Regards

Hi @rowesley this is mandatory for working ? I have tested 500W Resistive power but no high temperature measured in this part ? You have to dessolder the heatsink and the mosftets for adding thermal grease ? I suppose that i can just unscrew the mosfets from the heatsink and add thermal sticker between the mosfet and the heatsink.🤔 For the 20W power without load, i suppose this is due to the FANs that consume too much energy. These are 4 Pins in 12V 0.7 A in 80mm, i suppose i can replace them by Noctua Fans for quieter working and save more energy (0,07A max !) Currently, i have no idea about the way to have the integrated Solar charger that automaticaly starting when the inverter is off 😔 Best Regards

It is working for me sir, just follow the wiring that rowesley explained

Hi everyone, i have good news today Based on RS232 pinout, i finally managed to work the communication on the RS232 port 😆 The inverter is an Sumry hybrid inverter (unknown model). Solar Assistant detect correctly all the datas (battery, watts, PV voltage...etc). Actually all is working but 2 anomalies remain to be treated : - The solar inverter doesn't charger the batteries without the 230V inverter powered on (most of the devices automaticaly boot up and charge the batteries when solar panel supply volteges but this not working here.... very embarrasing for getting the batteries fully charged even if the inverter is unused.🤨 - The internal Fans of the inverter are always working at medium speed, even when the device is idle. It consumes 20W on the battery. Not found any parameters on the device to modify it. Maybe i will have to replace the fans or install a custom board for controlling the fans...😐 I you have some ideas 😄 The fun fact is that Solar Assistant show me in inverter details a serial number that is completely different from the one on the casing. Rebranded clone...😐 Thanks for all your help 🙏 Here is the screenshots 😁 :

Hi My voltmeter shows up a solid 5V output so is this an USB Host port. Yes it should be used for WiFi module or another plug in device. In the settings it show a MODBUS parameter so it is not a classic Axper clone. I my case, i have no information about the wiring of the RS232 RJ45 connector (who is RX, TX or GND on the cable). The RS232 connector delivers voltage output because a WiFi Pro inverter WiFi module i have tested on it light up but doesn't reconize the inverter. I want to setup a serial connection the my raspberry Pi running Solar Assistant software. Best Regards

Hi I have the VEVOR 3000W 24V Inverter (the one that have Vevor Logo on it). I have opened the device for searching about this shitty serial port. I have discovered an USB connection inside. I have measured 5V on it so it may be an USB Host connection. Since it is connected to the board that have the RS485 port outside, the inverter probably have an USB to RS485 module for lithium battery connection. Since this is an USB Host port (5V output) it is not a slave port so i could have a direct connection to the inverter. Here is some pictures Any help is appreciated Best Regards fhocorp