billy

Hi @Cornel101 I have just looked at the datasheet for the UP5000 and it looks to me like that pin combo is also correct for the 5kW hybrid and the UP5000.

Hi @Wayne 1989 What I found is that the 1,5,8 pinout for the inverter is incorrect. What worked for me is to use the CAN communication with the following: Inverter pin 2 to Pylontech pin6 - (CAN-GND) Inverter pin 4 to Pylontech pin 4 - (CAN-H) Inverter pin 5 to Pylontech pin 5 (CAN-L) Note that NO OTHER pins must be connected.

Thanks @TimCam Yes indeed, I did at first get lines of zeros and guessed that was probably not correct. I am now seeing the correct things on the LI BMS page once I realised that the diagrams in the Training Manual were different to those in the Installer Manual. I put in a Growatt system about 2 years ago, but not having a blended hybrid was not ideal. It is far more suited to fully off-grid in my opinion. So far I am loving the Sunsynk. Thanks for the advice about the MAX discharge. I think the issue is that I had it set to 74A which is what the Pylontech US3000C can supposedly deliver for 5 minutes before it drops to a 0.5C delivery of 37A. I have now dropped the MAX discharge on the inverter to 37A and let us see if that solves it. The world of power independence feels wonderful indeed, but clearly one does have to get everything set up correctly.

Always nice when you solve it yourself. I was using inverter pinouts from the training manual. The manual that came with the unit had the following for the pinouts: 2 - GND 4 - CAN-H 5 - CAN-L So it was simply a case of wiring Inverter to Battery 2 to 6 4 to 4 5 to 5 And voila - all works beautifully now!

Ignore my previous post. I was using inverter pinouts from the training manual. The manual that came with the 8.8kW unit has the following for the pinouts: 2 - GND 4 - CAN-H 5 - CAN-L I have made a cable for connecting the Inverter to my Pylontech US3000C and this is what is needed. Inverter to Battery 2 to 6 4 to 4 5 to 5 Tested and working correctly.

Hi I have recently (16/03/2022) had a Sunsynk 8.8 installed with a single Pylontech US3000C. I went for the single US3000C as I only intend using it for my basic load needs during load shedding. I have 6kWp solar for input during the day. I am concerned that the inverter and battery are not communicating correctly as I have twice had an error F56. After reading through some comments on this forum (thanks folks - amazing resource here), I decided the first step was to get the firmware of the inverter updated. That got pushed through at 03h30 this morning (01/04/2022) and I now see that I get a report of the SOC dropping to 58% sometimes (see pic). The inverter is now on firmware version 6.0.1.3. I am suspect that although the inverter reports that there is BMS communication, that it is not correct. My installer used the BMS cable that came with the Sunsynk, set it to use CAN and was confident that the BMS communication between inverter and battery was good. However, from what I have been reading, I suspect that all may not be well. I attach 2 further pics - the pinouts from the Pylontech US3000C Note on Communication Settings as well as the BMS pinouts from the Sunsynk manual. I believe that for proper CAN communication, only the specific pins should be connected as follows: Inverter 1 to Battery 4 (CAN-H) Inverter 5 to Battery 5 (Can-L) Inverter 8 to Battery 6 (Can-GND) So question 1: I can easily make up a cable (have the tools and skills), but just because I can does not mean I should! I would like to know if any folk on here have had to make (or source) a specific cable for this inverter/battery pair? Question 2: I know that my battery capacity is very low for the inverter, but I believe that 1.8kW (battery continuous discharge rate) and 3.55kW (5 min Maximum Discharge rate) should be fine as normally the LOAD usage is around 0.6kW and only goes up if we boil a kettle, run a microwave, etc which we will not do during load shedding times. The electric stove is on the GRID bi-directional connection, so is not supplied from the battery. Or am I being foolhardy and should add another US3000C to be absolutely sure of having enough power if needed? Just for further info, I am bust installing a gas-cooking setup for use during load shedding (and no doubt at other times too), so really do not see my load consumption getting very high.