SomeOrOther

Thanks Torqued to spec but have not done a load test for hotspots yet. Labelling on its way (read nicely cut vinyl).

Finally finished the installation and all is working as expected - no floating voltages, tripping ELs etc. Many thanks to @iiznh for your input.

Thank you once more for your insights. Your second paragraph made me realize that I was powering the contactor coil with live before E/L, and neutral after E/L. It is now set to take power from grid before the non-essential E/L. Will definitely do the earth spike once I do the panels (which is soon). I'll have a look at the Sunsynk manuals as well for cross-reference.

Thank you @iiznh, that makes perfect sense. Will adjust and post an update.

EDIT: Included suggestion from @iiznh EDIT: Powering contactor coil from correct neutral (non-essential before E/L) Hi all I've been doing some reading, sourcing some parts and planning my installation. I will do this in two phases, the first being battery backup, and the next adding panels. The installation is single phase. I'm at a point where I'd like some input from the community on topics mostly related to the AC wiring (or re-wiring of my existing DB). Disclaimer: I am of course aware of the risks and would not expect anyone giving any information to be accountable for any mistakes (either by the information given or any potential misinterpretation thereof on my part). This project, although necessary to maintain sanity, is also one of personal education and growth. I'm comfortable with DIY and enjoy a good dive into detail. All work will of course be checked and a CoC sought. All comments, advice, warnings, instruction, judgement, nitpicking etc are welcome and most appreciated . Some questions (refer to images below for reference): As expected, my current flush mount DB has all house circuits, as well as the main input circuit from the prepaid meter box terminate in the cavity the DB is mounted in. The house circuit cables are all twin and earth, fed into the cavity by 20mm and 25mm PVC pipes. The first specific question I have is around the legality of mounting two surface mounted DBs over the cavity, and feeding the appropriate circuits to the relevant DB. Is this allowed in any way? If so, do the PCV piping have to be lengthened to terminate into the surface mount DB so that the cables are continuously in the pipes, or can they just be guided through a gland? Note that all house circuits are stripped of the outer white insulation right up to where the original pipes end. What should the Amp rating of the contactor be whose job it is to bond the secondary neutral bar (ESP) to earth when Eskom power is interrupted. If it's 63A, can anyone recommend one that is silent (no humming/buzzing), and takes preferably only up to 2 slots in the DB (35mm)? Does the placement of the various components in the board make sense, in particular the lights and SPDs? Is the wiring correct considering it's a hybrid inverter and that I'm only doing battery backup for phase one (no CT coil drawn yet, although I'd likely install it anyway)? Existing installation (AC wiring): Proposed installation (AC wiring) Some notes to consider: I'm generally not too fussed about the cost. I'm happy to spend extra so that things look neat and uniform. Phase 2 will introduce a 3rd surface mount DB, and all 3 DBs will be neatly mounted above each other. My existing DB is hideous and I'm happy to go through the effort and cost to replace it with the same looking surface mount than the two additional ones The one aircon CB is rated 25A, but with 2.5mm2 wiring, so I believe this breaker must go down to 20A for exceeding the current carrying capacity for the installation method used. The current stove breaker is 32A which protects the 4mm2 cable, but our oven was replaced with a unit that has a normal household plug (16A). So, instead of being wired directly onto the stove terminal blocks from the twin and earth, the twin and earth now terminates into a 16A surface mount socket enclosure (hob is gas, so plugged in for starters). I believe the breaker must go down to a 20A because the breaker may not exceed 25% of the socket's rating. Thank you if you have read this far, and any input is greatly appreciated.