BarendD

@Bobster. and @Scorp007 one last question. What hotwater tank/ geysers are you using? Logic tells me that to a and solar/HP combo you would need a geyser with 7 holes. Cold/hot inlet, HP in/out, solar in/out and an overflow. Not sure if I'm missing something here but see the ones on the market has 3 or 5.

Thank for this. I've now decided this is the way I'm going. Might cost more today but sure it will pay itself in the long run. The misinformation is huge and that's why I've been so sceptical. Thank you once again and @Scorp007 thank you too. Going 5.4kw ITS HP with solar and 300 - 350L geyser capacity after speaking to ITS this afternoon.

I'm realising I know nothing. The more I read the less I understand. Does the cold water go into the heat pump or does the heated liquid run into the collector tank. How can you run 2 geysers on 1 pump? Cost would be insane but to get a 400/500L tank connected on both solar and HP would be the best option. Solar would be collector tubes with a small solar pump. You say you happy with yours. If I may ask what brand did you go for? Cookies looks amazing 🤣

Thanks. They failry close together so could work. So will look into it. Any idea of what your actual consumption is on the HP per day/month? If it pulls 1.2kw but runs most of the day and a element only runs a couple of hours it would even out. Where you located? I have read they work better in warmer conditions

I've been looking at the heat pump option. I have 2 geysers so that means 2 pumps increasing costs. Been trying to figure out of I should go single 400L with a heat pump or 150 and 200 and just add a gas booster geyser. That way I wouldn't need a element either. How big is your heat pump and geyser?

It's a hand build custom stove. I was stupid when I ordered it to go all electric on the oven side. Sould have gone 2 electric and 1 gas. By the time I realised my mistake it was in a container on its way from France.

Ever managed to get anywhere with this?

Gas stove top already included. Ovens pull 7250w. Anyone that wants to cooks half a decent meal still uses an oven. Air fryer can't bake bread or do anything big enough for entertainment days. My wife uses her air fryer oven. 2 x solar geysers each with only a 2kw electric element to heat to a normal temp where you can shower but WC has terrible winters where solar geysers isn't worth much. Can't add dedicated solar pannels because my entire roof is almost covered in pannels and estates has insane regulations for what you allowed.

Overstrand requires them. Can you advise on where I can get the coct drawings? You also have a WhatsApp message from me

My oven alone on full till pulls 33A. I have advised my builder and we pulling special cabling from the DB just for that. I'm not sure I'm ever going to use the oven on full tilt but rather safe than sorry. Specs attached

Been looking at them now. Didn't know they exist. You just saved me so much money. Wifi/RF switches I was going to use is R1k+ a switch. They sell 4 channel switches for R800. Im going complete smart home and until now I needed about 5 apps to run everything. They sell everything I need and everything runs off 1 app! THANK YOU!!!

No R250. Working and living outside SA has its advantages. On my system in SA I'm just going all out. 16KW inverter, 21 550w pannels and 30kw storage

Referring to the supply you get from the municipality. Residential building only gets 60A supply

Yeah I'm learning quickly and trying to find alternatives. Where I am now I run 2 ACs all day and my bill has never been more than R250, prices in SA is shocking. Looking at all my options to reduce my loads. Very upset with myself that I didn't get a gas oven. Thinking about going dual solar and gar on geysers to cut down on electricity.

Are they just topping up the temp to a pre set temp? Are they high pressure geysers? This would be a great option if I can go solar with a top up of gas during winter.

Can you please PM me where you go the quote from and who did you end up going with?

I know this sounds stupid but how does any normal house not draw more than 60A at times? I've worked out that in my new home if I run my oven, both geysers and my two ACs together that already 65A. I know this won't happen often but that's just 5 items. That's not everything else that just runs all the time. If I install a 16KW inverter will it allow to draw max between batteries and Eskom?

Off topic but I'm doing my application for SSEG and want to find out who did this diagram for you? If you did it yourself would you consider doing one for a fee? I have no idea how to do any of it.

I've been speaking to a installer and he has advised me that under COCT SSEG regulations you can have a maximum 12kw inverter if you have a standard 63A connection. What is the reason for this? I understand that 16kw will draw more than 63A at full go but can't inverters be programmed to have a max supply from the mains and draw the rest from the batteries or solar and balance them? I've read on the list forum that people has installed 2 smaller inverters to get past this, is this actually possible? TIA

Hi Willem I see these are low pressure units. What pressure at shower head level are you looking at if installed on ground level for a double story house? Im considering this instead of a solar geyser and instead using the roof space for additional solar pannels. Opinion on this option?

Can anyone please explain to me what the difference is? I've looked at all kinds of stuff but still not sure. I see a lot of places in SA selling heat pumps for hot water but elsewhere in the world they use heatpumps for cooling and heating houses. I did notice they say its a lot more efficient that an AC. I'm curious to know how the pipes/ ducting works as an AC just has refrigerant run in pipes but as far as I understand theis has air "pipes" Can we buy these in SA? Do they work around CT? Is it worth the higher cost? Ducting on an existing or new built house? Where do you buy these things?

I've been looking some more at roof layout. I've finally settled on 8 pannels per side and 5 on the car park. Could you please assist me with start up voltage vs mppt voltage. If I run 5 x 550w pannels @ 48v that will give me 240v, this is below the mppt voltage but above the startup voltage. Will it still work or not? Below is the pannels in considering TIA https://powerforum-store.co.za/collections/solar-panels/products/seraphim-siv-monocrystalline-series-550wp-silver-frame

Thank you everyone for your responses. I've learned quite a lot on here already. I did forget about a carport that I can add pannels on. Learning on here about different pannels has different volts and dimensions it had come to me that I can infact fit 6 x 425w or 5 x 550w pannels on my carport. They will fill up the entire space but they will fit. Once again not sure which will be the better option. Guessing high voltage to get above startup volts. This will the take my 3rd mppt. Can anyone explain to me what the following means and where to use it Voc Vmp Isc Imp Finally would calculationg all of this really help or the day you get an installer will they just look at me like I'm a idiot and then they do what they feel is best?

Thank you. These are the finer details I don't know. Also didn't realise that not all pannels are the same voltage. I thought they would all be +-48v.

Unfortunately due to building regulations roofs have to be between 30 and 40°, my angle is 32. Roof is facing 80/250. With a 3/3 split how early will it reach min voltage? I don't want to loose production due to low voltage especially in winter.