Deanos

Thank you, yes, even 22V as I see it roughly gives about 4-5 hours per volt drop with our current load which is around 16 - 20 hours from full battery, so dropping it another 2 volts would be awesome!
I have changed the one setting to run 24/7 from the grid and only use solar first to charge!
This way I should still save electricity, especially after an outage!
To now have to go spend 10's of thousands again is just not happening.

Thanks again for the advice, I'll have a go at pushing the various buttons and see what happens. 🙏🙏

OK, this just sounds extremely confusing. 🤣🤣🤣 I don't have the expertise or money right now to firstly get a genny, and then also have to mess around with the inverter settings. This is basically an explosion in my house waiting to happen if I do that!
Looking around at other inverters, they are much the same pricing as a smaller genny and don't use as much petrol either! 🤣
So i think the best answer right now is to just leave the system as it is, maybe get another 2 x 100AH batteries and hook them up so we then have a 400Ah capacity. then look at a better inverter.

Thanks @Deanos A picture paints a thousand words...
Your slope angle is not too flat, so that's out of the picture 🙂
It is true that one cannot have one "string" of panels working as expected if there is even just a portion of one panel being shaded, so your installer gave you good advice on that...
He did NOT give you good advice on matching the panels to your inverter. His crucial mistake was not matching the maximum voltage output of your modern, high-power panels (being 52.7V per panel) with the maximum VOC of the PWM of the solar charge module of the inverter (which is 80V). When one exceeds the rated VOC of the inverter module the inverter will become permanently damaged... so, you are limited to only one solar panel in series (one panel feeding through a second panel, the same as (say) two torch batteries feeding one through the second to give the required voltage. One can double the current (Amps) being provided by the solar panels by connecting two or more of them in parallel without increasing the VOC, but panels are more efficient when supplying power at higher voltage. What he did not allow for, was the fact that your panels are not optimally facing the sun (both in terms of slope, and especially in terms of directions relative to the sun's path (called azimuth). Because of this, your two parallel connected panels are not even producing sufficient voltage to reach the ideal "operating zone" of 30V - 32V as stated on the inverter label (your first image posted in the first post). If he had recommended lower rated older technology panels (as @Denns stated he did in his last post above) then ironically you would have been better off, as you could then have connected two panels in series and used most of what they would have produced...

My experience with PWM controllers kind of shows otherwise to be honest.
His panels seem to have a Vmp of 42V. The PwM will only make use of 30V from that panel so it really will only pull a maximum of 400W from that panel.
The installer didn’t match the panels to the type of charge controller he has so at best he will get 2/3 from that panel. Had he gotten panels that had a Vmp of around 32/33 then most of that panel would have been used.
So he can comfortably add another 1 or 2 panels and then he will start seeing numbers close to that PWM limit. Later on he can change the arrangement of the panels when he switches to MPPT.
I had a PWM once and made the same mistake of buying large panels without matching the voltage to them. I had 4 on mine and did eventually hit the 1600W my controller could do which made things much better for generation. I was still wasting a lot of solar potential as the panels had a Vmp of 42.
PWM isn’t necessary bad, it’s just that installers don’t match the panels to the inverter. I sold my PWM to a friend and specced the panels for it. He gets to about 90% of the panel rating all because the Panels have a Vmp of 32 if I recall. So decently efficient.

It seems like some missed your post indicating a maximum charge of 1200W by the PWM controller.. Even 2 more panels if there was space would not help much.
Current panels already 1170W.

You can check any setting by a long press of the enter button on the unit. Use the up and down buttons to get to the desired setting. Setting 29 is to get the DC cut out voltage level. Use up and down buttons to change the setting and the enter will save the setting displayed.
@GreenFields the APP settings show 26.6V from panels so luckily the 2 panels are connected in parallel but that makes the system not very efficient as you alerted to.

Layman's 2c, use at own risk, or get advice. Some points to consider all the same.
You've got an inverter with a 1200W PWM charge controller. In Winter that's just not quite enough to keep the battery charged. On average, touch and go, under the best of conditions in Winter, it's just-just sort of okay, but most of the time not, and if you're intending to run daytime loads from it as well, then you just don't have enough power generation capability. On top of that your setup is likely not optimal to begin with.
I'm assuming that your 2 x panels are connected in parallel, or it would have exceeded the inverter's max VOC and caused a failure. If this is not already in parallel, you really should change it over to parallel. But your panel's Vmp isn't ideally matched to the inverter. Better would have been to use a panel like the Canadian Solar HiKU6 CS6W405MS panel (x3), because the Vmp spec is better aligned with the battery charging Voltage. Unfortunately you've got a 25% loss of efficiency with the current panel right out the gate.
You could lower the discharge cut-off Voltage to 20V (spec as per the battery), ie. discharge it deeper than the inverter is doing now. And then I think you should change from SBU mode to utility mode, ie. just keep the battery and panels on-hand as a loadshedding solution, without trying to power the whole house from it permanently.
You'd have to do a more drastic upgrade, like changing to a 24V MPPT-controlled inverter, and adding maybe another two panels, before you can start thinking of running daytime base load and then still charging the battery by day for draining at night.