On a concrete roof , 16mm threaded rod with chemical anchors.  cut the torch on in a 120mm diameter circle around the rod and remove. Build up a small concrete dome around the rod let it dry or a domed steel pole cap and reapply waterproofing . You won't have leaks .

As for the solar geysers work on at least 75l (but preferably 100l) of hot water per person. If there are 2 locations then 2 pairs of 150l geysers and tubes or 2 300l geysers with evacuated tubes.

Then also consider gas  stove and oven  it helps lighten the solar load.

Is there a pool or borehole on the property and do you have any 3phase equipment?

If you're chopping and changing an existing house decide where you would like the equipment and fit lots of conduit for the solar odds and ends and the supply to the Bd from the inverters. It requires some thought of what cable you need to go where and what equipment you are going to use.

3 hours ago, seant said:

As for the solar geysers work on at least 75l (but preferably 100l) of hot water per person. If there are 2 locations then 2 pairs of 150l geysers and tubes or 2 300l geysers with evacuated tubes.

 

Something to consider, in terms, of placing the solar geyser I am having to move the one at my installation.

Why?, well, like most people it was the first thing fitted in this journey into solar.

And it works very well.

My problem is that it took pride of place, North- facing and on a frame that makes it quite tall on top of the roof.

The spine of this roof faces North and its positioned right on the leading ridge.

So it casts a shadow that throughout the day shades a prime area that could house a further 2-3 kW of PV.

(Most people don't need that much extra PV, but I do and much more).

Everybody served by this particular geyser showers in the morning, so it would be actually be more efficient level with the east slope of the roof, and I'd get more un-shaded PV up  there as well.

So that's where it's going soon.

Anyway, the moral of the story try to put any solar thermal geysers at the back so the don't shade any possible future PV.

 

Edited April 24, 20197 yr by phil.g00

On 2019/04/24 at 5:17 PM, seant said:

On a concrete roof , 16mm threaded rod with chemical anchors.  cut the torch on in a 120mm diameter circle around the rod and remove. Build up a small concrete dome around the rod let it dry or a domed steel pole cap and reapply waterproofing . You won't have leaks .

As for the solar geysers work on at least 75l (but preferably 100l) of hot water per person. If there are 2 locations then 2 pairs of 150l geysers and tubes or 2 300l geysers with evacuated tubes.

Then also consider gas  stove and oven  it helps lighten the solar load.

Is there a pool or borehole on the property and do you have any 3phase equipment?

If you're chopping and changing an existing house decide where you would like the equipment and fit lots of conduit for the solar odds and ends and the supply to the Bd from the inverters. It requires some thought of what cable you need to go where and what equipment you are going to use.

Thanks! I have a pool pump, gas top, electric oven. No aircons or heaters as yet. But might have to heat some rooms in the house but will see after our first winter.

Edited April 26, 20197 yr by PapaRed