rinners

I see plenty high voltage options, Goodwe MS, Fox ESS are now available. Anyone know of something bigger than 6kW that runs on 48V batteries? And transformerless inverters inverters also seem to be quite noisy.

So apparently it doesn't like special characters such as the one's above, lol. Haven't played much, but so far with changing to a different basic password it seems to not exhibit the connectivity issues.

I have the LAN module

Bump

Nice inverter, like that it's passive cooled and doesn't have fans. No noise makes it work in any room in the house. This is not a grid tied inverter though.

R700

Surely at the end of the day if your earth leakages are tripping with and without the grid present then that is an indication of a functional bond?

Other Goodwe inverter. Looks like it has an internal relay that is disabled for the Aus/NZ/SA firmwares.

This for the GW5048D-ES, but it's still as clear as mud. How does the Aus distribution grid differ from ours? Do they just not bond the N-E at the substations like is done here?

Price drop

@TaliaB I ordered one of these and the mains + generator version came. I was told they are all the same but I'm seeing some back feed or something when changing from backup to grid feed. https://www.takealot.com/2-pole-63a-automatic-dual-power-transfer-switch/PLID91672797 There is an Onesto DIN LED indicator from the main feed. When the grid feed isn't present and I have the unit in the backup position and then switch it back to grid (still not present, ie LED isn't on) then the mains grid LED lights up for a split second. Does this mean the interlock isn't working and it's allowing current to pass back to the grid feed? Or is there some residual inductance or something in the cables that causes the LED to light up?

Edit: I now understand the N-E bond is to bond the output of the inverter to neutral when the inverter is not receiving a grid feed. Or if it doesn't have it's own N-E bond. I have heard that at least one electrician say that they don't bother with a contactor/relay and just hard wire it straight.

What about in rush current?

@JustinSchoeman thank you. I don't see mention of on load reconnecting though, so presumably an isolator is still required or are there some that can also do reconnects under load? But then the typical domestic person is usually taught to isolate after trips before re-engaging the breaker 🤔

Bump

Struggling to find a user manual for any of these breakers. Specifically: https://hager.com/intl-en/products/information/mjn725-mcb-1pn-45ka-c-25a-1m I know CBI list their breakers and earth leakages as "Suitable to use for electrical isolation" I assume that means they can be reconnected under load, just not sure if Hager is the same?

Bump

Price : R800 Age: 8 months Condition: Basically new Reason: Not being used. Bought to fix connection issues, but figured out the wifi config issue

We have one of these geysers where the geyser is inside the ceiling raised on a platform and the panel sits outside, lower down on the roof. http://www.4seasonssolar.co.za/Chromagen.html Monitoring the temps with a digital thermostat now shows that it works great in summer, but in winter the other Kwikot mounted to our outside wall retains heat better than the solar geyser. And that's without a geyser blanket or piping insulation. There is no pump on the solar geyser, so it seems in winter the panel is working against us. TLDR: Is there any way to isolate the panel from the geyser during the winter? Edit: The sticker says standing loss per 24 h: 2265 kwh (not sure what ambient conditions they calculated this at)

Anyone tried these? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005180213474.html

So its seems surge protection doesn't to be enough these days. I seen a couple incidents of sustained voltages of near 300 on single phase. What are some decent Samite/DIN options for this in single and 3 phase which will be up to standard.

@TaliaB Which isolators have appropriate C curve? Sounds more like a breaker to me. Do they not mean disconnector as breaker, rather than isolator?

And do they have mechanical interlocking or a dead band while switching? Can they be switched under load?

Are these types of Asian origin automatic transfer switches up to standard for SA? More specifically the din rail versions

Ya best to be educated enough to try and help avoid these types of issues