aewallis

I'm not an expert, but if you are getting an error with a breaker circuit it sounds like the inverter doesn't like the common neutral / earth, especially if it kicks out with only the plug breaker (lights often aren't earth protected but plug circuits are). From testing mine was using the neutral relative to each input, ie AC, Solar and Battery and when it was misbehaving I noticed that the neutral difference had drifted between each by a voltage approximately equal to the incorrect battery voltage it was displaying on the inverter. In other words, it was measuring 20V when the battery was really at 27V and the voltage delta between the neutral / earth was around 6-7 volts. In my case the voltage divider resistors needed replacing (this is the part of the circuit which measures these DC voltages. Again I am NOT an expert and an electrician who is experienced in this can check your neutral and earth connections to rule that out at least. If nothing is obvious, maybe test the inverter on another circuit if you can. (same battery and setup, but another form of load via a circuit breaker) In other words a potential faulty breaker, earth leakage breaker or a "floating earth" somewhere on that circuit.

https://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?p=96186#p96186 - there is more detail in this thread, however this may not be applicable to the version you have.

I have been using one of these for about 2 years now, and it recently triggered an overheat error with dead fans. I opened it up and tested the fans to verify that they were indeed dead. As I am remote I only had one other spare 60mm fan from an old UPS which I put in along with a larger 80MM fan which I stuck to the top side to pull air using double sided tape to create a seal. A couple of points to note: 1. the original fans only have 12V and gnd so their speed will not be programmable. The one power point on the motherboard supports a 3rd pin and my replacement fan on this with 3 wires runs much slower. Replacement fans from Communica have 3 pin support. 2. The fans are mounted to push air upwards in the unit, and as per other forum comments these fans are typically designed to pull air. My redneck fix with the external fan has significantly reduced both noise and temparature. This one is on the second port so only kicks in when the unit gets warmer. Current load temperature sitting at 25 deg with fans on.

Do you perhaps have any diagrams or pointers on where to locate the resistors to test? I have a "Synapse" / Axpert 3.0V 3KVa which I left running with no load while away. It triggered the 03 voltage error and since I have an independent voltage display on the battery (Mastervolt 24V Lithium) it also showed that the battery was sitting at 30V (usually around 27V) I got my house sitter to pull the battery fuse and bypass it. Now that I am home and testing it is working under load but the voltage values on the inverter is definitely not aligned to the battery voltage. ( 29V on inverter, 26.7V on battery) and it's fluctuating on the inverter display. Now I have another all day power outage and cannot go without it but so far under load it's running and hasn't triggered the voltage alarm. It's also not charging from the PV since the inverter voltage is still showing high and it thinks that the battery is still at 100%. I changed the fans recently and I do have coastal conditions so it's likely that salt or moisture has been a factor. (warranty expired)

Hi Everyone So I have finally got my DIY setup connected to my DB board. (with qualified electrician assistance of course) I've been gradually adding on as I have budget and this is my current setup: Axpert 3.0 + 3kw with 1Kw MPPT (wired to seperate sub-DB with all the necessary change over switches etc) Mastervolt 24v 24/160 Lithium battery (old but still does the job) 2x 100W twinsel panels in series which gets up to around 41V Prior to connecting to the DB board I was just running wifi and laptop with a few lamps. My setup is currently only for backup during load shedding. The supply is now feeding the main DB board: 2x light circuits (all LED) and 2x plugs on 1 breaker. The other plugs in the main house are ALL wired to 1x breaker which means I am avoiding that one as I don't want any hair dryers etc pulling off the inverter. I have a flat on a sub-DB which has most of the kitchen appliances, stove etc and geyser so that is not an option without major expense or a distinct system I'm guessing. I have now got 2x TV's and 1x Xbox one X attached. The Xbox / TV is the biggest power hog of all at around 300W If I just run lights, fibre/ Wifi / NAS and laptops with the 40 inch plasma my power usage peaks at around 200W. With the 2nd TV (55 inch LED and Xbox) it jumps to 500W ish. I'm planning to get another 300 / 400W panel to add to the solar in parallel to get the solar up to a matching power level. Remember this system is just to provide backup during load shedding. As far as I have researched as long as the Voltage across the panels is around the same, losses will be minimal. It was suggested to me to put in voltage regulators or caps between the panels to avoid any issues on the inverter. The current panels are also on a flat roof between the house and flat, tilted to N/W direction, and in late afternoon do get shade from the roof, more pronounced in winter. Based on the voltage readings I'm ok with the performance and I don't think any other location will improve exposure. I could move the panels to the roof on the right side in the picture which is the garage roof and will probably get slightly longer sun exposure. (I'd say maybe 30 min extra) All that being said, should I be ok to just add another panel (36V Voltage Pmax) without having to swop existing panels? I can leave the power hungry xbox and tv off, but I also prefer the option of them being more isolated from load shedding and power spikes etc. For now I've set the inverter to mains priority as the solar power is now less than the load, and the inverter is consequently only drawing nominal power from the panels.

This is my kwikot 50l after 1 year with hard water element! I had to replace one geyser and the element on this one during level 5 lockdown at massive expense (plumbers had us by the b@#ss). Our water is from a borehole to estate and treated at source, but even so eats everything. This is also why I have hesitated to install a pump solar geyser as it will stuff up the pump in 6 months. It all depends on your water conditions and location.