Abra

Aaaaaand one moment. Problem with Charging from PV and AC still there But I think it will be more easier Now it chaged to: input AC to output AC working well input AC to batteries not working input solar to output AC working well input solar to batteries not working batteries to output AC working well So, need to check again this?

Thanks to everyone for pointing me in the right direction, it remains to check all the boards in these areas and repair the damage. The topic started as error 52 but then grew into something more. All in all. The post concerns 5kW Axpert, MKS II, etc. and Warning 15!, problems with the screen, control buttons (On one control board, the screen began to fail, the button connector is also nearby), the problem of current flow from the PV to charge or output. In the design of my inverter, I think not only mine, the upper left air duct, or rather its lower part, is directed to the upper part of the control board. Where are a lot of important components and connectors located: When working outdoors or in a dusty room, and this is especially unpleasant in combination with increased humidity, a very thick layer of dust accumulates over time on the top of the control board. I have accumulated a layer of about one millimeter, unfortunately I did not take a photo. Also, due to high humidity, especially in the morning, this dust eventually corrodes the protective layer of the board and the tracks that go very close to each other are exposed. Subsequently, if I understand correctly, this can lead to short circuits and burnouts or the decay of some parts of the tracks. In my case, after cleaning the board from swollen paint, the board looked like this: The main problem was this track, on 2 boards it was damaged in the place marked with a blue circle, on another it was damaged in several places, including in the place marked with a blue circle: I also think it is necessary to check all the tracks for integrity before the end of the repair. As for preventing such destruction, I will block off part of the duct so that dust does not accumulate in this place, but flies higher. p.s. My problem and repair for one of the boards looked something like this. It's not that hard, even for a clumsy newbie like me:

The result of my crooked hand soldering. At first I tried to join with tin, but then I realized that I had crooked hands and joined with two twisted strands of wire. I'll clean up the soldering dirt later when I check the rest of the tracks and then paint over with a protective layer when it comes to me. In the near future I will finish everything, check if everything works well and try to give a detailed description of the breakdown, how to check and where to fix it. Perhaps someone will come in handy.

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSS! THIS IS IT! On two boards for sure! The track was damaged in approximately the same place! The second inverter is now working! Tomorrow I will check the tracks on all the boards and connect them with a wire! I checked with a tester. Firstly, charging does not stop when checking, and secondly, it now shows 18.9v.

So, I made a mistake, and checked the wrong contact on the Control Board. I found the right contact and found the break in the track! Now I'll try to fix it. I pried the paint off with a feeler gauge and under it like this.

Before resistance, the tracks lead here: All tracks and resistance on the control board are fine...

Measurements show ~100 ohms from pin 6 on the control board, to the 2nd pin of R183, i.e. track + resistance on the control board show a total of ~ 100 ohms.

On the SCC board, this pin leads to the transistor driver board. First like this: And then on the transistor driver board right here: (This is an SCC board from a freshly opened inverter, I haven't had time to clean it from dust yet )

On the control board, this pin goes to this resistor:

UPD: 1 column: Control board original from Working one 2 column: Control board original from semi working one 3 column: Control board from 3rd broken invertor 4 column: Control board from 4th broken invertor So what's the point of all this. I went up to the inverters now, to see what works, what doesn't. And I see this. Both inverters are charging, although the control board from the non-working inverter is installed on the half-working inverter. Payment from column 4. I'm starting to measure the pins. And what is happening. When measuring pin 6, charging immediately stops, the pin shows 23.8v. After 2-3 minutes, charging continues again as if nothing had happened. I'm trying to measure this pin again. Charging stops again, then resumes again, and so on ad infinitum. On the worker, when measuring, charging does not stop. Here is an interesting behavior associated with pin 6 I noticed. Not only does it show different voltages with a working inverter, but also when trying to measure, if charging suddenly starts, charging stops immediately. I understand the somewhere problem is here.

UPD: 1 column: Working one (Shows around 2.5kW on input PV when measure) 2 columb: Broken one (Shows 0 watt on input PV when measure) 3 columb: Broken one (Shows 40-50 watt on input PV when measure) 4 columb: Broken one (Shows 0 watt on input PV when measure) 1 - ground. 2 - 12.5 => 12.4 => 12.4 => 12.6 3 - 13.0 => 13.2 => 13.2 => 13.3 4 - 17.0 => 16.9 => 16.9 => 17.0 5 - 12.4 => 12.0 => 12.0 => 12.0 6 - 18.5 => 23.9 => 23.9 => 23.8 !!! this pin have a big difference between working one and all brokens. 7 - 23.9 => 23.9 => 23.9 => 23.9 8 - 12.0 => 12.0 => 12.0 => 12.0

I ordered this one, I hope I did everything right https://www.lazada.co.th/products/relife-rl-uvh900-rl-uvh900b-rl-uvh900bl-curing-solder-mask-ink-10cc-i1979182474-s6335332797.html

And you can throw off an example of coverage, I'll try to find something similar here. I have not come across this yet Therefore, I don’t know what exactly is needed for coverage Do you think PV may not be charging due to the fact that there is simply no coverage?

Yes, the coating was bubbling. I removed most of the paint with just a toothbrush without acetone. Then I additionally rubbed with acetone stronger to wipe off the dirt and remnants of peeling paint.

Wire voltage comparison between Control Board and SCC Board (8pin) (Left - Working, Right - Broken) 1 - ground. 2 - 12.5 => 12.4 3 - 13.0 => 13.2 4 - 17.0 => 16.9 5 - 12.4 => 12.0 6 - 18.5 => 23.9 7 - 23.9 => 23.9 8 - 12.0 => 12.0

Second board:

Hi all. Unfortunately I was very busy and had to take a break. Another inverter broke today... With the same problem as we discussed. Opened it for the first time. And I started juggling SCC and Contol boards. And I noticed such a thing, for some reason I had not paid attention to it before. The left air duct of the inverter, or rather of all inverters, with its lower part, falls on part of the control board. And there accumulates the maximum layer of dust and dirt. Also, apparently due to high humidity, let me remind you, I live in Thailand, along with this dust, moisture gets there and begins to literally corrode the control board. The coating of the board (paint) begins to swell, as it were. After a total cleaning with acetone, this piece of the board looks like this. One of the boards was also cleaned with WD-40, but I had literally 1 drop left, so I cleaned it poorly. All in all. The point is. The last inverter after cleaning the board started working (all functionality) but not for long. In principle, all the functionality works for it, but sometimes charging or power from PV stops (the inverter shows 0W, 0A, 240-250V). Several times I just popped the control board out after the charging stopped going, clean it with acetone and a toothbrush again, put it back and everything started working for a while. This problem now exists on all 4 inverter control boards that I have. 2 boards do not charge in any way. 1 board either charges or not. 1 board is still charging, but it can be seen that the incoming current began to sometimes jump and be unstable. I think soon the board will also fail. Can you tell me how and what should I check and how can I fix it? First board:

According to my logic, the whole system works like this: 1 - I am powering the PV. 2 - In all the necessary circuits for the life of the inverter, voltage appears only from PV, without the transistors turned on, which must raise the voltage to the system required for full operation, let's say 360v. 3 - It also goes through the blue cube on the SCC board, which measures the power consumption. At this point, it measures the amount of current consumed by the inverter components. I'm not sure about its accuracy at low current consumption, so my opinion is that those 15-80 watts that it shows are not entirely correct, but at the same time they tell us that the blue cube is working. 4 - Next, the system checks for some time whether everything is in order, receiving information from different sensors and most likely, having rechecked all the necessary information several times, it turns on without errors (only with a warning, BP!, because it could not detect sufficient voltage on the BAT+, BAT- contacts) 5 - Next, after I press the power switch (as it happens on a normal inverter), the system starts doing some more checks for 5 seconds. After the system makes sure that everything is in order - the control board sends some voltage to some pins of the SCC board to start the driver for the transistor, which in turn will start the transistors, which in turn will start to help convert the 240v voltage to the required 360v. 6 - Immediately after the start of the transistors, when the control board receives data from the sensor that there are 360v on the bus, the control board starts the remaining components, which in turn direct the voltage from the bus to the output. Why am I all this. As I understand it, there is a problem here "the control board sends some voltage to some contacts of the SCC board", which is why the transistors do not turn on. Accordingly, I want to understand where exactly the voltage should go to the driver board in order to check whether it is there in principle. And if it is not there, trace the contacts on the control board from where it gets to the SCC board, if there is no necessary voltage there, trace its path on the control board, etc.

I will probably try to measure and compare between a working and a broken inverter the readings of all sensors that go to CN9 in the state when power is supplied from the solar panels, but the button on the inverter is not turned on and in the state when the button is already on. As I understand it, the sensors go in pairs to the CN9 pin? 1,2 - 3,4 - 5,6 etc. Except CN9.7, CN9.8 and CN9.15, CN9.16

Yep, I tried to replace it too Now installed this one:

Yes, a good inverter just starts working with only PV, it has enough power, because his transistors start up and 360+V starts to flow to the bus.

Nothing is connected to the outputs of the inverter. Only 2 wires are connected to the inverter: - and + from PV. I carried out a similar test on a working inverter. It turns on and starts the circuit.

This

It does not run from PV. If a working inverter, when connected only to PV, after 5 seconds after switching on, clicks the relay and starts supplying power to the output, just at this moment the bus switches from 240 + v to 360 + v, then the broken one does not start the transistors, does not start the relay and does not supply voltage to the output. I wrote a few posts earlier about 3 stages of launch where a broken one can only go through 2 of them.