NoahAndArk

You would have to look at the Voc for your panels and look at the temperature co-efficient formula and based on your expected minimum temperature, calculate out what the Voc of your panels could come up to, to determine whether you will be exceeding the MPPT's max Voltage... the Circuit breaker would trip if you exceeded the current, 40A, for some time, this would not and could not prevent a higher voltage from reaching your MPPT.

I see photos of current measurements with the two probes stuck somewhere.
Do you realise that the current is measured magnetically by a current carrying wire inside the clamp? And the probes are only for measuring voltage?
It's possible that all the current that you are "measuring" is merely zero offset. Hall effect clamps are notoriously drifty, and have a terrible offset, that you have to clear with probably  the Z/F button, just before you slip one (never both) of the wires inside the clamp. After a few minutes of operation, you should check the zero, to get a feel for how much the value drifts. Slip the wire outside the clamp, but don't move the meter much if possible, as stray magnetic fields affect the measured value. Take the voltage probes off if they come off (usually they do), and swing the meter around to get a feel for how the meter behaves.
If you are well aware of all this, my apologies; it's always hard to judge how experienced any particular forum user is. Just that in all those photos, I didn't see any that showed clearly what was inside the clamp.
Edit: Your settings seem OK, though I didn't see setting 26 (bulk/absorb/CV battery voltage).
Edit 2: One of the phots says "previously used circuit breakers" or the like. What replaces them now? Ah, is that in photo p5, the same breakers outside the box for ease of voltage measurement?
Edit 3: Be aware that photo p4, which shows BATT and PV and 4A, probably relates to the battery side of the charge controller. So that could be about 0.9 A at 120 V being "DC transformed" down to some 4 A (anywhere between 4.00 and  4.99 A) into the battery at 25 V. As a rule of thumb, expect the current at the PV input to be some 5x (at 120 V) less than what goes into the battery. Note that there could be more panel current going into electronics, fans, losses, and also loads. Some models (not all) have a "data page" with actual panel current (as measured); those pages probably won't have the BATT segment on. Some models indicate total PV power as if it was all going into the battery, and some indicate net charging current into the battery. It's quite confusing.

If as you say you measure 13A at the MPPT then it means all this power is going towards the load with zero to the battery.
Use the multi meter and provide the battery voltage and also what make/model of batteries are you using?

You should be able to see it by pressing the up or down buttons on the display until you see something like
U1
12
34
which in this example means main firmware version 12.34 .