MorneDJ

I got everything from Re-volt, and it was boxed without any updated stuff. I will update the unit tonight and see and provide feedback. Thanks all.

System is seeing the pylontech batteries after driving to Current Automation to buy the Victron cable. I will check tonight what the differences are between my cables (I made 2) and the Victron cable. I also got the MK3 connector to see if I can check the settings on the Multiplus. The trip seems to be sorted, I changed the earth leakage CB. I assume that this is the RCD? The multiplus is on, but: - When the multiplus is connected to the grid, it use the power from the grid and not the solar panels which is now in full sun and should be able to deliver at least 1 kW. - When I remove the grid power it seamlessly start using the power from the solar panels, which is not alot. The backup power only do the house lights and the lounge area (TV and PC), around 500w max. Will check the settings tonight. Can I enable the grid feedback to see if my meter run backwards (once my issues are sorted) ?

Thanks. Everything is setup as with the post, but I cannot see it. Waiting for Solarshop to call back to tell me if they have this cable. And the invertor does not work as planned. It does not use any of the solar energy, so the solar panel energy is just used to keep the batteries charges (float?) it seems. What am I missing?

I cannot see the pylontech batteries. I made a new cable with pins 2 - 3, 8 - 5 and 7 - 4. I tested the cable and it dies work, but one never know. The batteries charge and show no alarm currently with the cable I made. I will see if some-one in Pta stock that cable and I will buy one.

And fixed, although I do not know what the " I " and " II " switch is for. Still waiting for https://vrm.victronenergy.com/ to verify my email so that I can register the equipment and update the firmware on the MPPTs.

Had some time and finally connected everything, and it was a failure. The solar panels is generating power, it is powering the MPPT, and it appears that the Venus is running. It reports that the batteries are flat, so I am leaving the system to charge the batteries. But ... the moment I switch on the Multiplus II the earth switch trips on the main board. I see that there is two markings on the "on" switch, something like: " II O I ". When the invertor is on the " I ", the green invertor light burns but my main earth switch trips. Problem is with none of these the invertor is not sending power to the house? When I put it on " II ", no light is on but it does not trip the earth switch. Can anyone tell me what is the " I " and " II " switch options are for. Cannot find anything in the manual. Up to date I have done everything myself so, if possible would like to sort this out before approaching a professional installer.

Can anyone assist in telling me what cable is required between the multiplus II and the venus GX ? Is it a normal network cable (UTP)?

Progress to date in storage room

After 2 months I started with my installation and will post progress here as I proceed. After reading a few books and websites I actually decided to do everything myself although I will need some-one to assist in lifting the solar panels onto the roof. This a quick post (while I wait for meeting to start) highlighting a few lessons learned to date: Get more than 3 quotes and buy the components where you can find the cheapest, even if you can buy from 5 different people. I selected to buy the bulk from one supplier thinking that the supplier will assist with a nice design and advice. Wrong. I will not go into that. There are numerous websites and forums that will assist in advice, and with the money you save you can hire a professional for an hour or 5 to assist in sorting out issues you may have. Note: This is just my opinion, as with a difficult installation I have heard that installers came back a few times to fix some issues. I am speaking from the DIY perspective. If you select to redo your own DB, mark all cables clearly, including the neutral cables. When splitting the DB, make sure that the correct neutral wires are also removed from the "non critical part". Get a larger DB than what you think you may need. Working on an old, 20+ year old tile roof is a %^&*(%$, especially if the roof was painted a few times in the past. Lifting tiles is not as easy as it appears on the youtube videos where the guys work with new tiles. A wooden mallet and a large piece of rubber will do wonders to loossen a tile but be careful. I only had to loosen 2 tiles and managed to do without the mallet once I managed to lift the first two tiles. Tiles will be broken. I only did a small section (one string) to lay the conduit for the wires, yet found 2 broken tiles when I lift other tiles. I glued them together using epoxy glue and marked them to ensure that I will never again walk on top of them. They were repositioned to be directly underneath the solar panels. The brandering below these two tiles were from two small pieces of wood. Use garden gloves when working with tiles. I had to change my bank card the next day and they could not verify my fingerprint ... This seems logical, but I initially wanted to lay the conduit diagonally along the roof from the area where the panels will be installed to the location where it leads to the MPPTs. A firewall and rafters however blocked me at a few locations. After lifting 30 tiles I realized that there was no way that I will be able to fit trunking diagonally and had to refit all the tiles and went horizontally to the edge of the roof all along the brandering. Yes, my back was killing me sunday evening. Do not expect great work by the previous builder/roofer. I found a section where they used pieces of offcut brandering to install the roof tiles, which broke either while they installed it (and just decided to fit the roof tiles anyway), or it moved sometime when someone added a new light fitting to the room. Two sections were completely broken and were not even supporting the tiles properly. I was just lucky that it carried my weight and that I did not crash through the roof. Unless you are an electrician, or have an electrician friend, install the conduit in sections, add the wire through that section; mark, bend and fit the new section of conduit and extend the wire through the new section before doing the following section. It is difficult to pull 2 strands of 6mm wire through conduit with 2 bends, and impossible if there are more than 3 bends. I had to cut the conduit and had to start from scratch.

They are 330W Canadians. After drawing the design I decided to remove the fuses before the mppts and change them with 2-pole circuit breakers.

I would appreciate it if you guys can check my design. They delivered my equipment on Wednesday, but I still have not received my design. But, looking at my planned installation and the equipment that was delivered, I think I do not have the correct stuff. The plan is to use 2x 150/45 MPPTs together with the 12 solar panels. Each MPPT to be fed by 6 panels (3 in series, with 2 strings in parallel). I did not get cables as the quote included 4 mm wire which I thought may be too thin. I ordered 6 mm PV cable to be delivered. 1. The panels to be connected in series with the supplied MC4 connectors (on the PV Panels). 2. I will connect the 2x series panels (3 each) with MC4 Y connectors. They are rated at 60A (ordered, 6 mm). 3. Using 6 mm cable, reported to manage at least 60 A. I will either use 50/45 A fuses or circuit breakers before the MPPTs. Is this really required? 4. Using the same 6 mm cable between the MPPTs and combiner box (to be bought / made) with 50/45 A fuses. 5. 35 mm wires leading from the combiner box to the batteries and invertor. 125 A fuses between combiner box and batteries.

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I do not know if everyone has seen the battery special at solar warehouse. R16k for a 6 kVA Lithuim ion battery ?

I bought it at ARB in Menlyn. I have to add that it is not that sturdy as it appears on the pictures, perhaps because I cut out most of the back. Ar almost R800 it is also not that cheap. I have seen better (or in my opinion) boards at ElectraHertz in Silverton.

Yeah. I did not get a bussbar when I bought the Hager CBs, thinking that I can use my existing bussbar. When removing I saw that the CBI BB does not fit, and went to Builders to get another, which also didn't fit, so I drove to ElectraHertz today to get some 16mm wire and the correct bussbar (R150 ... ).

So I had an entertaining weekend and only manages to shock me 7 times due to my own stupidity, and I thoroughly tested the Earth-breaker-switch. Took a long time labelling all the cables, and still have no idea to where the one cable feeds power (lights), and then extending some of the very short cables to something that I can work with. Changed the walled-in DB to a surface mounted structure. I still need to go and buy an additional 10A CB for the bottom (solar) row, that will only service lights and the lounge (TV, PC) for now.

So I installed a small weather system today, one that has been lying in the cupboard for the past 4 years. Yipp. Not a typo. Fell over it when I took out a pair of pliers. Actually wanted to see what is happening in my db. After some pulling and tugging I managed to clear the spiderweb of cables, and with some help from the family I manage to label most of the wires. All but 2 circuit breakers which are connected to a red wire leading somewhere unknown. Going to leave them off and perhaps someome will raise a concern some time...

Could you please tell me the name of that thick trunking you used. Where can I get some in Pretoria ?

Thanks. I read somewhere here on the forum about some or other piece of equipment having a 1 m limitation. Thought it was the Carlo. What is that equipment? PS: This thread is full of posts not relevant to the Vicron grid tied design and directly related questions. Going through it is quite an undertaking to look for that "something". Perhaps the rest can be moved to a different thread ?

Lol. Thanks. Was joking but I will definitely use that tip.

Planning for the installation, the first hurdle is the DB in my house. It is installed in the pantry, in a rather inaccessible location. This, is mainly my doing, as it used to be a laundry room that I converted into a walk-in pantry. But now it is covered in shelves, normally covered with ants (eating the honey, peanut butter and nick-nacks spilled by the kids). So, the best would be to move it, but it is quite a mission, as most of the plugs into the house goes into the ground, and moving the DB completely would require me to connect a bunch of cables to extend. Anyone recommend a way to connect these cables and to isolate each connection. There will not be space for those big connectors that are filled with that epoxy type mix. Alternatively I can split the DB, installing the EM112 next to the mains switch, and leaving the "non critical loads" where they are and only moving the critical loads. But then the cable linking the EM112 with the inverter will be around 10 m. Would that be possible ?

What is the limitations w.r.t. cable lengths that restrict installation distances. This is as I have to split my DB and may have to install the CC (EM112) around 9m from the inverter. Would this be an issue ?

Also looking from Software that one can use to draw a schematic or similar. Anyone ? It does not have to be software specific for renewable energy, just to draw the electrical circuit showing the grid side, switches, flow of the live and neutral cable, fuses etc.

I will speak to Wessel from Revolt tomorrow about this. The quote they gave me was for the 12 335w panels, or 4 kW.