jjmoodley

Yes, that's exactly what happens. I for example don't have my geyser connected to the normal load but in Zero Export to CT the solar or battery will be used to power the geyser. I can confirm this works as described above. It allows me to stay on zero export to Load on days/times solar generation is not great so I don't run down the battery. Also once the battery is full I can use the solar to power the geyser or heat pump which is not connected as normal load.

100%, the Deye Firmware and Deye Cloud features need an update. There is so much they can do better very easily.

Got SA setup and configured the automation. If this works it will pay for itself in a few months. Hoping it goes back to default mode after 3pm.

Thanks @mzezman, exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks for the screenshot, this is for the work mode timer. If you click on Inverter settings can you edit the work mode? Want I want to do is switch between "Zero Export to Load" and "Zero Export to CT" using SA.

Thanks for the quick response and confirmation, will definitely purchase.

I have an 8kw Deye setup and thinking about getting Solar Assistant to schedule changes of the work mode (zero export to load/CT). I have not seen any evidence that you can actually do this on Solar Assistant. Can someone please confirm if this is possible? I don't have the installer permission on the inverter so the Deye Cloud or Solarman Business is not an option. What I want to achieve is use the PV during the day to power the geyser which is non essential but don't want it to only power essential loads when PV is not available. This works when manually switching work modes but want to be able to control remotely or schedule this.

Hi Guys, also looking for a drop in replacement for LA batteries but have a 12V so just looking for a single battery with no need for the balancer. How does the Hubble compare with the Blue Nova, 108AH Blue Nova vs Hubble S120. I see the power forum store also has a CFE-1280S. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks for the advice, I'm now convinced MR16 is not the way to go. Strip lights are good, actually have a few but finding a nice spot for them in all rooms if you don't have the ceiling for them is not that easy. Most of my lights at the moment are low wattage LED or CFL bulbs so may be best to just get a small inverter to power them. Risk here is I'll be messing with the existing wiring which I guess I will have to do at some point. Back to the drawing board for me...

Hi, I'm new to the forum as I'm just starting out on a journey to be better prepaid for load shedding. My first step is to create better lighting and I'm thinking of using MR16 (GU5.3) downlights connected directly to a 12v battery which I'll keep charged. I can also go with GU10 lights but this would require me to run a small inverter. Advantages of MR16 for me is that it's less cost (no inverter required) and much cheaper cables to run through the house which will not be connected to the existing wiring in anyway therefore not requiring COC. One disadvantage I can see is that MR16 bulbs are not as available as GU10 so this may not be the best long term decision. Would like to know if I'm missing anything and get some advice on which way to go from anyone who may have already gone down this road and already learnt some lessons. Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated.