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Use battery only in evening to save amount of cycles?
Is there any way I can see the cycle count on a standard Sunsynk link (I don't have solar assistant)
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Use battery only in evening to save amount of cycles?
Thanks a lot for all the input. Not overthinking the warranty is a very important point for me. Going forward I think I will join the go with the "use responsibly, but get the most out of the system now" mindset. There are too many future variables I can not account for.
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Use battery only in evening to save amount of cycles?
I hear your point 5000 cycles is more that adequate at 13.7 years, but the counter argument is if you add an extra cycle each day it is cloudy you an reduce that by up to 20-30%. Excuse my ignorance if I am making a stupid argument, I don't know how much of a discharge actually counts as a cycle
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Use battery only in evening to save amount of cycles?
I've been running a 5kW Sunsynk and 2x 5.5kW Hubbles for 3 months as a UPS. I installed 9x 545kW Canadian Solars today. At the moment the system is set up to use the batteries to supplement the solar power any time it is not sunny enough. I got advice from a friend who did a lot of research on his own similar system to only use the battery to supplement in the evenings. His motivation for this is to prevent the battery from logging various discharge cycles during cloudy days, negatively influencing it's guarantee period and lifetime. His argument makes a lot of sense, but my question is: How much of negative influence does the extra cycles during cloudy days have? Is the possible increase in longevity for the batteries worth paying for the top up power for the grid during cloudy periods? My gut feeling is yes, but I woud appreciate some more input.
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Sunsynk 5Kw maximizing output for 9 panels
Brilliant, thank you very much for the responses. Going ahead with the 9x545w.
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Sunsynk 5Kw maximizing output for 9 panels
Apologies, fixed images
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Sunsynk 5Kw maximizing output for 9 panels
Thanks a lot for all the responses. My concern with putting all 9 on one MPPT is this: It seems the voltage limit is lower per MPPT. Not sure why is it different from this: If the 4 panels is an option then I will go that way, should be OK given that the voltage is highest in the morning when panels are cold and you need to start the MPPT. Adding one more panel and doing 5/5 would be perfect, unfortunately the space available does not allow a bigger structure.
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Sunsynk 5Kw maximizing output for 9 panels
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Sunsynk 5Kw maximizing output for 9 panels
OK that's great news, I did not know how important the minimum voltage is, thought the MPPT wouldn't work below it
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Sunsynk 5Kw maximizing output for 9 panels
Yes, building structure so they face directly North.
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Sunsynk 5Kw maximizing output for 9 panels
I have limited space for panels I am building a structure to mount them in the available space. I can do a maximum of 9. I've been reading up and doing calculations and the best I could get to do with the space is 545w Canadian Solar. At -5 degrees it gives me a max voltage of 479v. Then I realized I can't spilt them in 5/4 because I need 6 panel per string to get over the minimum voltage per string at 95 degrees cell temp. I can't find a viable way to use 9 panels, going down to 7 seems like too little power generation for the cost of the construction, am I missing something? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, my solar dream is fading a bit.
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Solarman and Sunsynk WiFi Data Logger - Logger Does Not Exist
I am trying to add my system to Solarman, but when I scan my logger during the setup, it gives a "Logger Does Not Exist" error. It is a Sunsynk 5kW with the new version wifi data logger. I can find no information on the internet, so I assume I am doing something very stupid, being the only one with the issue. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 3472812f-397c-4a67-8d34-57c0f848f65a.jfif
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Sunsynk inverter doesn't connect to Hubble BMS using BMS CAN bus
Just wanted to say thank you, I've been struggling for a day to get Hubble BMS to connect, was about to make a custom cable as last resort. Turns out it was just the Master setting on the DIP switches. You guys are live savers.
Deonlr
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