Taps

Hi @Taps
The maximum AC voltage refers to the maximum power that can flow through the essential load side of the inverter. On the 8Kw inverter it is 50A or approximately 11.5kW (50A x 230V = 11.5kW).
Any additional power above the 8kw the inverter is capable of generating will come from the grid. For example, if you have a load of 11kW and sufficient solar or battery power available, 8kW will come from the inverter, and the remaining 3kW will be drawn from the grid. If your battery settings/state only allows for generating 4kW of solar/battery power, it will provide 4kW, and the remaining 7kW will come from the grid. However, the total power cannot exceed 11.5kW, as that would cause the inverter to trip out.
Power used by non-essential loads does not pass through the inverter. Instead, the inverter feeds the excess power back to the grid, up to the point where the CT clamp is installed. This operation is similar to a grid-tie inverter. The maximum power it can feed back to the grid is equal to the size of the inverter, which is 8kW in this case. The limit to the power you can use on the non-essential size is only limited by the size of your Eskom breaker
In the case of a 5kW inverter, the limit on essential loads is 35A, equivalent to approximately 8kW.
These limits are applicable only when the inverter is connected to the grid. If the grid is off or disconnected, the largest load that can be supported is the size of the inverter itself as there is no griod power to blend with.
 
 
 

The life expectancy of galvanized iron rails is 50 years. That is double the panels life expectancy. Yes, they are slightly heavier but I don't think that will be an issue for the roof structure.
Galvanized steel brackets are also substantially cheaper. They don't have contact with other metals than the rails.
I'm not talking about incorrect mounting by not following the recommended guides and compromising the installation. How would the panels end up somewhere during a windstorm, creating a potential liability, by using galvanized iron, instead of aluminum rails. Would you be able to explain that?
Has anyone noticed significant corrosion issue in inland areas, using the cheaper mounting options?
 

Just checked the manual for Sunsynk. Might be going out on a limb here, might be wrong, but if I'm right, you should probably do this sooner rather than later.
 
1. In the menu, on the "System Mode" page, "System2" tab, tick the box "Limit to Load Only"
- That should cause your inverter to supply the ups backed-up load only, and stop the bleeding.
 
2.You should be able to top up your municipal power at that point until your municipal account is no longer in arrears. Money down the drain, sorry.
 
3. My concern here is - again - I strongly suspect that you are exporting power to the grid through a prepaid meter, which you really don't want to do. If you had the "Solar Export" box ticked on the Mode menu, then, un-tick it, don't use it at all until you get a bi-directional meter that can distinguish between power coming in vs power coming out. Because otherwise your exported power will be counted as purchased power. You'll be paying full price for each unit you send to the municipality as if you bought it from them, even if you're giving it away for free.
 
4. If you had the "Zero Export" mode ticked, then it is likely there is a problem with the installation of your CT coil because it should normally be limiting the inverter's power to the house only, but it appears you've been exporting instead. If this is the case, if you were in "Zero Export" mode while this happened, I'd suggest calling your installer back to check the fitment of the CT coil.
 
I hope this helps.
And I hope actually that I'm completely wrong and that it's something else.

also same issue with my dad's setup. I moved the light circuit away from the earth leakage and the problem went away.. PS: my earth's were bound already. so was not earth related.

I had similar problem. you must connect the output of the inverter to the earth leakage.