DDD

Two final graphs then geyser goes back on permanently. The following graph is for two days. On the X scale 2120 - 2900 day -1 from 2900 - 4700 Day0. The left the collector temp went high 71C and had a small impact on the holding tank temp The following graph I tweaked the circulation temp after to lower the collector temp. This increased the water temp in the holding tank faster without dropping the C of the geyser. 3H30 both tanks C is above 42C both tanks on the roof and not properly insulated. From 4010 the sun was setting.

Any 1.8Kw will start a 1Kw depending ON THE USAGE OF THE HOUSE. That is why grid tied and hybrid is nice. If power is a little low then the grid helps it going. In the case of totally off grid and solar only the total Kwhr is important. Then it becomes a chain effect Kwhrforpump = KwhrFromPanels(AC component) - KwhrUSEDBYHOUSE. Then one should have sufficient PV and Kwhr Inverter. The column below is an example where left is import from the grid right is export. 0.226 0.199 0.039 0.614 0.013 0.471 0.077 0.439 0.22 0.051 0.276 0.19 0 1.136 0 0.856 0 1.248 0 1.177 0 0.914 0 1.143 0.007 0.557 0.003 0.745

What is lacking is the courage to wind the the first coil. Always mind over matter ...

Did a few software additions: Below is the menu: Moving RR -> 656 Rot Done -> 0 Coil Width -> 20 StepMode -> 1 Wind's -> 100 LRStep -> 20 Mode O Motor OFF Dir L r reset counters to zero Motor off s Set winding count e Emergency stop d enter wire diameter G Start winding c Show counters t Steps per thickness of wire w Width/Height in winds m Test Motor d is the thickness of the copper wire and it will calculate the amount of windings and thw width is specified by menu selection w. This is the update line where the small micro feeds back to the PC. Rot Done -> 0 Coil Width -> 20 StepMode -> 1 Wind's -> 100 LRStep -> 20 Mode O Motor OFF Dir L Step mode is the degrees per step the selection is from: "1 One Step"; "2 1/2 Step"; "4 1/4 Step"; "8 1/8 Step"; "6 1/16 Step"; This is moving the cradle left to right or right to left.... At the end it is about feeding the wire properly toe ensure the coils is winded properly and prevent the windings from climbing on top of the next... Rot == Rotations or windings done.

The plate for the magnets and the spacing of it. I had it drawn in auto cad so when I get it cut its ready for them

Something trivial. The lid is from 10mm perspex the black "ring" is a section of 10mm x 5mm deep that I had cut out filled with black silicon and that is the seal. O rings and other stuff worked for pressure but not as good as the good old silicon for a bath tub.

The vacuum device in action. Primitive but it creates good suction and very cheap. Sorry for the shaking's. I could not get a vacuum pump locally for 3 x the cost of the total unit. The unit is now fully vacuum tight. What a mission and ready. The fully vacuum tight created a better reading and ..

At the end of the vacuum line I created this "stop valve". And a week later the needle did not move. Week is long but I forgot about the test. Wanted to take a small video and then realized I forgot about the test A week is way to long a few hours is fine for the resin to harden. No leaks are important for air bubbles and to keep the carbon fiber etc. in place.

The last bit of work was done on the the vacuum pump and vacuum reservoir. If remember the one imploded on me. The little unit I made is from the same plastic tube used for my pool filters. This is the suction I could get from a small 12V pump.

The issues I had was the all to do with the winding process. I want each coil the same tension, width and windings. The coil length and width is obtained from the size of the magnet. Here I am going for a Ferrite type. Although not as strong as the others these is not so problematic at the coast when it gets to rust. Therefore a different size will create almost the same magnetism as the other magnets. I had the drawings done for the magnet plates and when the coils are done that will provide the final sizing and then the stator plates will get lazer cut ready for the action. Tomorrow the winding process will start. The aim is that each coil on the shorter side will be properly tighten using thin nylon "rope" thing more accurate will be "like rafia". This will tighten the copper wires properly and keep them in place for the vacuum chamber process.

After the testing I I changed the spool layout to release the coils easier and finally achieved the turning etc I required for the winding process. Now I will start the winding of the coils. The speed is a little slow to my liking but if it works properly I will put a faster motor with a small chain and sprockets to let it run faster. Software I can't show that is done so the breaking system will be via software. Now this is done the struggles with the coils dimensions and final "sizing" is over. The next step once all the coils are done I will calculate the size of the plate for the magnets and get that going...

Yes here we go. I had to modify my coil winder. When winding the wood was grabbing the spool unwind the bobbin and then unwind the complete spool and then all got stuck. The new mods I put in for the spool was a set of bearings and a new shaft. The spools are very heavy and the motor struggled to pull the copper through the threads: This is the shaft and bearings for the copper spool The bearings created a friction less spool so I used a bolt through the wood and created a break so I can adjust the tension on the copper for the coil/ I have an cloth hanging on it and the other side is against the spool

It is always good practice to do that. The dryer higher areas has good lightning and indirect induced voltage that these suppressors can prevent. Also good for electronic equipment. What some people doe is they install a set of breakers in the "box" on the pavement where the cables enter the property. Then in the DB they install the transorbs. On high longish "noise" the outside breaker will trip and protect your equipment. If you are single phase the best transorb is what is used in the base of the prepaid meters. That been a very good design. You can not have to many as they are design to protect. Each prepaid meter in SA has a standard one mounted in the base. If my memory serves me right the failures after installing these devices drop with 9X%. Very good to have it in.

That the "nice" of the holding tank. When C goes > 70 circulate between them and build up a reservoir of heat. The reality is no need for a CPU controller a temperature switch will do the same and the switch valve is a waste. The cost therefore can be reduced with +/- R 1100 Now this is over I will install a Real Time Clock si I can time stamp power usages and leave the geyser on as 24/7 The RTC will allow me to see daily, monthly usage in Kwhr. GeaserSystem1.pdf

I could not understand what happened with my isolation and why my solar geyser burst. The graph below explained the issue. The collector manifold temp at this stage was 72C. It simply melt the isolation and the fiber glass could not stand the heat There is no ways that you can beat a solar "vacuum tube" collector system combined with a grid tie PV system. Hot water is free and the beauty is one add a panel or two and then it cavers the days when temp is lows cost.

When you read this remember I have my own Reverse Osmosis system. Thus I use siphon sea water. I am grid tied so either I do not have to pay the munic or pay them less. ( I will not dare to say I get money back 😇) After many years my solar system burst open it was a fiber glass system. Nr 3 that went so I installed a new normal geyser. I prefer Sushi else I like my steak rare. 😇 This is my latest graph: At the 1200 mark on the X axis was +/- 18H30 last night . The different color curves are: The top magenta line is the C temp of the geyser. Dark blue is the temp C in the collector manifold of the vacuum tubes Green is ambient temp C or temp in the shade at the collectors light red/pinkish status of the circulation pump Dark pink is when the element is on turquoise is the temp C of the hot or holding tank. Each mark (square block) on the X axis is 10 minutes. Thus 30 minutes before the 1300 mark some one went to have a bath. At this stage the sun was setting that one can see on the collector head temp. A few minutes later the geyser temp dropped below the holding tank and then the circulation pump got started.. The interesting fact is that a mixture of hot and cold water is now fed into the geyser. +/- 10 minutes later the holding tank C was less than the geyser so circulation was stopped. Then because the geyser went below 50C the element was switched on and +/- 16 minutes or 800W later the element was switch off as max C was reached. This is the main difference between this system and others: The holding tank increased the temp fed into the geyser therefore less cold water has a lesser impact The geyser temp was increase from 48C to 52C in less than 3 minutes due to the holding tank After 16 minutes OR 800W the geyser reached 57C due to the sun and element. At this time we generated a total of 1.8Kw solar power so it cost R 0.00 The remaining sun the took the geyser temp to 59.8C and the holding tank temp was 52.7C I think the switching valve is a waste. I have it so it will stay until I get another job for it Then interesting it was raining and cold and through the night the geyser temp dropped to 51.7C meaning any timing function was useless as the geyser element will only go on at 50C. The hot tank dropped to 48.5C. The ambient temp hovered at +/- 17C through the evening. This is dominantly controlled by the water mass in front of us. At the 1900 mark the sun raised its head and winked it's eyes even it was/is totally cloudy and raining but the UV factor kicked in and immediate produced hot water. That's why the photo's. The amount of heat generated by these vacuum tubes for free is amazing. Not sure how many would have believed me but photo's don't lie. The rest of the graph is amazing to see the rate of climb when the geyser is off the rapid increase of the temp of the collector manifold and then the geyser. For me it is obvious that no heat pump or gas heater can produce this amount of hot water at the cost of this combination. The combination is: Holding tank Normal geyser Circulation pump Vacuum collectors Grid tied solar. There is just no way any system be it what ever can do the same. To be fair to all I would have never done this if there was not a debate on cost/performance/maintenance. I will go as far to say that this is the only system that has the fastest ROI compared to any other system INCLUDING maintenance. These graphs clearly shows what a "hoaks" these fancy timers are an one can do the same with a timer bought at your electrical store for 1/4 of the cost. Sorry to say but they got you fooled. If you use the amount of bath water we use then I can assure you that a gas geyser cost is 2 bottles of 19Kg per month. That is crazy and almost the same cost of electricity. Still a little bit cheaper I chuck mine at the back somewhere and now it greeting this old world due to rust. I will not mention names but I will and can not recommend any person to go the gas route unless you are oom Koos. Safe the planet by burning your gas rather than coal or nuclear. The geewis systems is easily replaced with a timer of +/- R300 and the argument of setting temp is not that accurate. That is another crazy comment as if any person is that concerned then get VW, FIAT, Mercedes Ferrari and ... not to use any thermostats any more as you cannot trust a thermostat in your geyser so imagine how ridiculous is it to use in a car. Does not gel. The last one is a heat pump. Cost wise on paper it is cheaper than gas and the conventional element. Compare it to this type of system there is simply put no comparison. The heat exchanger can NOT DO what this combination of products do. Then to put it on batteries is like looking for a sober person in a British pub after Man United performance. I do understand some people got to go that way because of a lack of infrastructure but not to to save cost nope that is a very expensive way to save cost as you will always support China Fell free to criticize and do not be scared to blow me. But give me facts that you can beet the system. Tant Nellie sister Stinnie's brother can not defend himself therefore facts to proof that you can beat the installation cost, the maintenance cost and running cost. If you can beat it I will stick you for a sushi. The following screen shot shows that the holding tank is already getting hotter due to the sun and the sun only: Everything is free and the grid tie make sure that I DO NOT HAVE TO PAY

The temperature in one of my new spar collectors: The photos where +/- 45 sec apart. This sets the back drop to my graph below:

The outside temp is 17C on the photo: The temperature in one of my old collectors 86C:

I am starting with a picture of what the day looks like today. No sun hardly any wind and the photo one can just see the sea +/- 200meters and normally one would have seen Table Mountain, Roben Island and the mountains all the way to Hout bay.

I have played a little more with the toys and this graph is I recon an extremely good set of facts to compare gas/heat pumps solar PV and solar vacuum tubes cost and running costs .... I have created a thread to explain more on the differences and for my comments see my sets of information and descriptions. In short from most expensive to money back I have my list below. Remember I understand we all have different issues, $, people in the house goals and cars, wife's blond or brunette in choice. I also understand oom Koos has a small farm that he has converted for echo tourism that has no electricity water is H2) natural he wants no electricity because of the carbon effect, global worming and hate nuclear power. He wants to save the world therefore he destroys it by burning gas. All hopefully taken as comical as some does not like everything I said. Therefore should you be interested check my chat feel free to comment and also to call me an idiot on things my wife does it daily and my teenagers knows even more than Einstein and not Weinstein or Andrew. Trust me I get my fair share of it. THe following graph is what I collected from "MY GEYSER SMART SYSTEM" 😉. If it is a wize system that is the same as beauty is in the eye of the beholder. This is the graph:

Understood. But I bet I have a few bob more than you due to my "geewize" system 😂😉

This is where we diver. He clearly state "people" should make use of this and "help" Eskom with it. Eskom then recommended that that level be lifted. Have you ever thought about what Eskom has to do when one person apply for grid tie or what ever. For them its a lot of paper work. Imagine each small holding, farmer ... rural houses apply for grid tie and they must ..... I was involved in a small project and I assure you they do not have "staff" to do it. .... This is not to bad mouth them. The reality is Eskom is a very very good company the thief's that worked there created the mess. It started by one smart person who stopped new power stations because a severe lack of understanding spinning reserve......

Yes, Its not something I made myself I had it made. The casing I bought 200mm thick pipe and then did the rest. I have some spare equipment here and will make another one so all can see. This filter when dirty you chuck it in a washing machine and wash it. Be3cause I am not mechanical I I made it with off the shelve stuff you can buy at any hardware store except for the pipe

Nope, Temp sensor center of tank in the tube of the thermostat. What it is, is I circulate the hotter water from the hot tank with the cold water of the geyser. Thus the 200l 48 lifts the 150l 35 to 45 in no time. What is interesting is the when circulating the hot water 150l to the 200l thus from say 58.5 to increase the hot tank the 150l due to mass difference decrease in temp a lot faster.

I apologies for this. When I said Std1 somme it was tongue in cheek. Same as I sometime will say "I will type slowly so you do not have to read fast". Was not meant to be insulting but more a jokingly sarcastic comment.. I do apologies To those I offended I apologies.