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Since you said notifications are enabled both in the app and in the phone settings, here are some deeper checks: Battery / background optimisation settings On Samsung phones, Android aggressively limits background activity to preserve battery. If Sunsynk is being “paused” when the app is closed, push notifications might not get delivered. Go to Settings → Apps → Sunsynk → Battery → “Allow background activity” / “Unrestricted” (or similar) Ensure the app is not set to “Optimise” (which limits it) or to hibernate when unused. App permissions + notifications Confirm under Settings → Notifications that the Sunsynk app is allowed to send Show as priority or Pop-up notifications. In the app itself, check its own notification settings (you have done this) and any “test notification” function if available. Also consider turning off any “Do not disturb” or “Focus” mode scheduling that might block notifications when the phone is locked. Internet / data connection If the phone switches networks (WiFi ↔ mobile) or if the connection is weak, push messages might get delayed or dropped. Try explicitly testing while on WiFi vs mobile data. App version & firmware compatibility Ensure the Sunsynk app is updated to the latest version from the Google Play Store. Also check if your inverter / data logger firmware has any dependencies (some users have reported that older firmware doesn’t support certain notifications). On the manufacturer’s support page: there is an article How to turn on push notifications which may verify correct setup. To r=test force close the App and cause a known event(Grid disconnect ) and see if you get the push notification while the phone is locked.

A saving of over R9000 in connection costs for a typical 16KVA system is most certainly welcomed. This will assist in making the adoption of solar more affordable and accessible.

Hi Scoobs Here are a few options for you to consider: External “kickstart” charge A dedicated 48 V lithium charger (or a bench power supply adjustable to 52–53 V DC) with current limited to 2–5 A max is usually the safest way. Connect directly to the battery’s + and – terminals. The goal is to lift the pack voltage above the BMS threshold (usually ~44–46 V). Once the BMS wakes, it will allow the Victron to take over charging. DIP switch “Force Start” mode (on some Pylontech models) Check the DIP switch configuration in the Pylontech manual. Some models have a way to force the battery to accept charge when deeply discharged, but it usually still requires an external voltage source. Chaining with another healthy battery (if available) Sometimes connecting the flat unit in parallel with a healthy UP5000 (only if you or the neighbor has one) will allow it to “piggyback” charge and wake the BMS. ⚠️ Needs care and identical SOC packs, otherwise huge inrush current could flow. Only do this if you’re experienced. Victron + Pylontech CAN comms The Victron MultiPlus can wake the UP5000 only if the BMS is listening, but if the pack is “hard asleep” it won’t talk at all. That’s why the VRM shows low voltage alarms but can’t start charging. So the Victron alone probably won’t bring it back without external help.