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Otto ES

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Everything posted by Otto ES

  1. Do not have one yet but if it happens to me it might just be cheaper to disconnect the solar panels..
  2. Does "Where conduit is used" imply that it is only applicable when you use conduit? Can you use pvc trunking? In reality most installations that I have seen uses trunking around the inverters and DB's. Is this illegal?
  3. I will give it a shot but I am not an expert by any means ... Size just depends on what you want to achieve. If this is in the range that you are prepared to spend, it is the right size! Since it is a bit under sized for your normal consumption you will basically use it to its full potential every day and you are going to get max return on your investment. Installing a solar heater or a heat exchange for your geyser is more efficient so it might be something to consider. Cannot say about the inverter, I will go with The BLue (Victron) because, over the long term, the difference is not going to make much difference My estimate R150 000
  4. Agree with P1000. The heat is generated where you have the most resistance, so if it is only close to the fuse/breaker, it is probably at the connection. (Assuming you are using DC breakers/fuses as Jacques said)
  5. I have the same situation where the chimney shadow will obstruct one string after about 3. If I understand correctly from your measurements I will lose the power from that one string when it is partially in the shadow but the other ones will still operate normally without any additional equipment, e.g. diode protection? P.S. I am comfortable with losing the one string, I was more worried if I need to split them to different inverters or add diodes in series.
  6. I might try this idea Gerrie! I see you use cable ties, any idea if they will last 20-30 years outside?
  7. In case someone else is trying to do the same: there are different models and options which can vary quite a lot in price. The Dektite Aluminium Multicable Solar Flashing (Metal Roof ) is quite affordable if it fits your purpose (less than R150).
  8. Yes Gerrie, you are right, that is not going to work. I will look at the galvanised conduit. Must just figure out how to connect it to the tray or channel in the roof. Thanks plonkster. I did not find these in my search. While expensive as you say they will surely work!
  9. A stupid question, but is there a good way of taking your wires from solar panels through the roof? As I understand regulations it can not be just through a hole because that can damage the wires (Google showed some overseas products but nothing in SA that Icould find) Will something like this be OK?
  10. Thanks plokster! You can see I am a Noob.. I over complicated the problem.
  11. I would like to measure the DC current from by solar panels. I will have 3 string in different orientations and would like to measure them individually. Measuring the battery current would be a bonus (It is a new installation, it should be for permanent monitoring, I am willing to write my own software on an Arduino or pi if needed) Any recommendations and where I can find sensor? Any opinions on Hall sensors or resistance sensors?
  12. Hi I am also a Noob but note that when you compare the capacity of lead-acid with Li-ion that you can not discharge them to the same level. The lead -acid you should only discharge to about 50% while you can discharge the Li-ion to 10% (90% use-able)
  13. Hi All I am a Noob with this and only found this forum recently (should have searched better) . The post is a bit long for which I apologize. I am in the planning phase of my solar installation with a parallel non grid tied system at this point. Hardware: 12 panels of about 300W each 3 kW inverter/MMPT (Victron EasySolar II) - already ordered Batteries PylonUS3000 - already ordered (might add second one in future) I am still considering how to do the wiring and this is where I can use so advise from the community. General background on off grid installation: I am planning to move some of my loads to only run during the day from solar Swimming pool pump only run if the sun is shining - makes sense Run one air con during the day if enough power is available Power the internet permanently - to keep the rest of the house happy (I already have a solar hot water system) One or two separate plugs for general use Connect some lights permanently to the off-grid system to make use to the available capacity and for backup (to conform to the wiring code, wire to be separate from grid supply) Over time I might move more loads over to the battery to get maximum returns on my investment (I am comfortable with Raspberry pi and programming so the logic for the scheduling I hope to automate) I did read the "My Solar 12V home" post Some people suggest to rather have a DC system (will still have an inverter for 220V loads during the day but will be switched off ) e.g.. https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/edisons-revenge-will-direct-current-make-a-comeback-in-us/ This make sense because it is more efficient to directly run low voltage loads from DC, e.g. LED lights, internet router, chargers, laptops, etc. The inverter also draws power permanently even if it has light load or no load. (Background: depending on the inverter it can draw significant power from your battery. typically 20W -> 20*16 = 320Wh - Easysolar II is more efficient and draws 11W -> 11*16hours = 176Wh which is about 176Wh/(3.5Wh*0.90) = 5.6% of the battery's capacity with 90% discharge which is still significant. Over a year this is 64kWh) I know there are practical problems with a DC system, but as a backup I think you can side step most of these I do understand that I need separate trunking for the DC and a desperate DB What I do not know: So if I want to go DC, are there standard plugs or can I use any plugs I like like barrel connectors? If I want to automatically switch my AC or DC loads individually, can I add these in the DB board and what relays/switches and controllers do I use to do this legally? Can I use a Sonoff for example? (I want to run the logic on the Raspberry Pi the control signals can be either logic control signals, WiFi or RS485) Thanks
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