Gerrie

One thing you could do is to install a second change-over switch, one for essentials and one for non-essentials. That would give you the choice to use those non-essentials, but it would probably mean splitting your DB into an additional non-essential section depending on how your board was done. Mine works like that, two change-over switches and a normal Eskom only section,I seldom have to use it but it is very handy during load shedding.

Wondering what effect on environment in the coming years due to batteries that will be smashed and burnt at just about every scrap collectors den to make a few pennies. Acid running down storm water drains and into soil, I’m sure lot of batteries are starting to pile up in garages and all over as they reach end of life. It’s not the easiest thing to get rid of if you want to do it responsibly. I done a small experiment and took apart a small alarm battery to see if I could make some fishing sinkers, what a dangerous mess. I quickly abandoned that idea. That had me thinking about how environmentally friendly the scrap dealers must be surely they won’t put profit before the environment as we probably have strict laws with inspectors auditing these battery recyclers very often to make sure they don’t have acid spills that might contaminate stormwater or soil. I guess we could also contact a company like hazmat or enviro waste to dispose of them safely and they could even issue a safe disposal certificate, hopefully at a small cost not to expensive so that they encourage us to leave them next to the wheely bin.

That sounds like the CT’s are installed the wrong way, In the manual there is mention of negative Watt readings if coils are wrong way. My 5KW ct ratio did not need to be set, it worked first time without setting.

Very interesting stuff, just out of interest was there any favorite between the four?

I also had the transformers making a noise and have changed all of them to the GU10 230V Led’s. Definitely those old 12volt lights draw quite a bit of current and is not energy efficient, The LED’s are the better option as you can even get them as low as 3W. Earthing is always the better option, some will say if they are out of arms reach they need not be earthed, but when you need a COC you might find the earthing is non-compliant, the bright light fitting looks correct and should pass a COC if installed correct. My old dimmers does not dim although the lights do switch on but I did not get the dimmable GU10’s because they are very expensive and I have just too many to replace, so for now they are good enough. I think eventually I will just replace the dimmers with normal switches.

I also inspected my inverter from top to bottom when I received it. At the bottom something looks like a fan but their are no visible moving parts. But one thing to keep in mind these units are IP 65 rated. Designed to work on ship decks and take a water spray without a problem. So if it sits on a garage wall under a roof it might look a bit strange.

I don’t agree with this statement even the CPA have terms for when you can get a replacement, if there were any fault on the part of the consumer these terms will determine the course of the claim.

I also agree, so far that is the only shortcoming I could find with the Sunsync and I don’t like to keep changing settings everyday from ‘limit to load only’ I have one Pylontech battery only and have found sometimes it ran down to fast not leaving me with enough backup for night time, I have also done as Tariq mentioned by changing the SOC setting so that the battery can keep its charge a bit longer but I would like a easier tick box option. Hopefully Sunsynk will be the first to jump on this opportunity and be the solution.

I don’t know what I would of done if I was in a similar situation. I think normally if their was a problem with the inverter from the commissioning that the installer picked up they should definitely replace the unit, but the fact that it did work for a certain period of time and only than became faulty is the grey area where the terms and conditions become the choice of the supplier. Just my understanding of things. I do think that it’s great that they fixed the unit in a reasonable time and gives me a bit of re-assurance with my own Sunsynk should something go wrong with the unit. Maybe you should twist their arm for a free Sunsynk logger or extended warrantee to make up for lost production

I got this message on the Solarman app, Is anyone else also getting this message?

I was thinking if adding a separate voltage regulator between the inverter and generator would make a difference for those of us who have the cheaper type generators that can’t do a good job regulating voltage? Few years back with some serious load shedding I had to get a office running with a small 5KVA adendorf generator. The problem was lights and computer screens were flickering and showed signs of bad voltage, we decided to get a additional regulated power supply from AC/DC. This seemed to resolve the problem and we did not have to buy another generator. Has anyone actually tried something like this with inverters that is a bit finicky with voltage?

I would also like to change limit to load remotely or is their perhaps any newer software version that allow the Limit to load only to be set on a timer setting on the touch screen? Also Is the new Sunsynk dongles available yet?

I have not worked with the thee phase Sunsynk, but if I had the option to do three phase I would start by fitting a three phase changeover and splitting each phase at the DB board to Non-essential and Essential loads and wire only the absolute important things for each phase like lights, alarm system, cctv, gate/garage motors, plugs for fridge, TV and computers to essential. The one battery should give some backup at night during load shedding as long as you stay within the battery limits. During day time the excess PV can still feed those non-essentials and let you save a bit on power. As your system gro you just swing more loads to essential side.

I use the same version and it works, you might have another problem connecting to the battery. Do you get the green Battery Module icon once you push connect?

https://powerforum.co.za/topic/2408-pylontech-us2000b-how-to-read-data-from-them/ This link might lead you towards that direction. There were quite a bit of interesting info on how to get into the pylontech program.