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Everything posted by Gerrie

  1. This will require batteries for the night use, It would be best to measure the load drawn during the night to get an idea on what equipment needs to run during the night in order to get a better idea of the size batteries you will need for the hatchery. Is the borehole three phase and do you need three phase on the farm?
  2. That sounds much more manageable, I am no expert but DIY on such a system would be much easier.
  3. This is allot of units per month, my rough estimate is that you use about 688 units per day, if you only want to generate half of that your looking at a system that can deliver about 43A per phase. I would start looking at something like a SMA 25000W three phase unit. I have no experience with these units but have seen them in industrial installations. There is nothing wrong with installing the system yourself but you are looking at quite a big system and lots can go wrong if you have no experience. I would recommend if you got a electrical engineer involved with the design and
  4. I think you need to start by contacting your municipality and apply for a permit to store so much lead on one property Thats quite a bit of power, you are going to enjoy load-shedding.
  5. Out of interest my eye caught this graph on battery view just after I were using a baby grinder earlier today, this was also while my normal loads of about 600W was on at the time. Here can be seen how the PV is charging my battery and the inverter is using PV only to supply the loads, not discharging the battery at all. This is a clone Axpert with min 36VDC - max 105VDC PV Voltage.
  6. It will work, one thing to keep in mind is every time it switches on their is a small spark that switching spark is a big contributor to what eventually destroy’s the contact, the bigger that contact the longer it normally last. I would rather install a relay with at least double the load current rating to get a longer life out of the relay.
  7. Do these hybrid inverters need Eskom supply to function like above or do they also function like this when Eskom is turned off. My knowledge on these hybrid inverters are basically zero.
  8. Thank you to you guys for sharing these PV generation figures it gives a nice indication of two different 3.8KW arrays. Pietpower’s 15KWh generation is pretty close to Jykenmynie’s 17kWh generation for the same array size. The only other way to get more generation might be to install a solar tracker to get a better curve during the day, that’s if it was really required and if you have the loads to go with it. My own array size is only 1890W and the best generation was 8.2KWh for a 24hr cycle like mentioned in my first post, this is measured with a digital KWh meter on the inverter ac outp
  9. I know it wont be possible for most people to install at this price but it can be done as I done my own installation that meant no labour cost, no markup on materials and no brand names except the pylon battery that I recently installed removing the old gel batteries. Roof mountings and channels for pv were made by myself with products from central support systems. I bought a clone and did not know it at the time fortunately it performs pretty well. 4KW clone inverter - R8000, 6x330W panels - R12600, 4x120AH gel batteries - R8400, (batteries were replaced) with Pylontech3.5-R19900, bracke
  10. I will agree R1.94 per KWh is close enough as this is based on what could be used from a fully charged battery. There is however a added advantage that is sometimes not considered when using a battery, the battery also functions as a backup during the day for various loads especially when running off-grid with PV this pv complimenting the battery, although a 3.5KWH pylontech can deliver about <2.9KWh during a full cycle which might occur in the evenings. The system could also allow you to draw a additional in my case >6KWh everyday day (permitting weather) while the battery is being full
  11. I also have a 200ltr evacuated tube thermo syphon geyser, It also drops about 4 degrees overnight, I also made sure I lagged every piece, I even lagged the over temperature valve on top of the geyser because I could feel the heat on the valve and saw it as a point where lot of heat could escape. I was thinking to do the same to feed my dual 600 geyser from the solar geyser but I couldn't find the safe working temperature for the dual 600 geyser on the kwikhot specification I’m worried the temperature from the solar geyser is to high for the dual 600 geyser as I’ve seen my solar
  12. The batteries make up for a big portion of the cost when installing solar, that’s if you also need backup after dusk. The cost of putting power into those batteries with PV are relatively cheap if you take into consideration the lifetime of the PV panels that will do most of the work over many years and possibly outlive any inverter and batteries. Batteries can almost be compared to a generator using fuel, to a inverter using batteries. The difficult part is to re-coup as much as possible of that battery cost over the shortest possible time. In my opinion it is a real work of art to put
  13. Thanks Chris, My inverter setting 29 was on 46.5V I’m going to lower it to 45.5V and test it and might have to go even lower.
  14. Interesting topic that caught my attention. I use my Axpert mainly off-grid, charging with solar only, and only run on solar and battery with utility feed switched off. Utility feed is switched on only in cloudy weather to prevent battery from running to low. I also switch my inverter off every night about 23H00 (SOC then about 40%) and on again at 05H00. My inverter won’t switch on in the mornings unless I switch on utility feed first, or unless it receives pv. So as soon as my inverter starts up every morning I immediately switch off the utility feed. If the battery has a high SOC
  15. That’s a pity because it would mean it have to be in a enclosure of some sort if you wanted to mount it on a wall to avoid open wiring, unless you fit some sort of trunking at the terminations.
  16. Hi Hannes looks good, is ACDC making their own brand inverter what size is it and what do you think of it?
  17. I used four Osaka’s in series for about 16 months until one battery became faulty. I overload them and ran them to their outer limits sometimes drawing 80A or more, so I cannot say they are bad because of my abuse. They are currently quite scarce and you will pay more now than what they were beginning of 2019. I paid R2100each at the time they were quite cheap but are now about R2700each. I could not find the 120AH again so am now using Pylontech.
  18. Unless if the car is used for business you could probably recover the cost of charging the car by claiming per KWH or docking costs instead of the normal fuel expenses. Then still have the depreciation like with normal vehicles. That gives business owners alternative options when purchasing new vehicles, making even solar installations slightly more attractive.
  19. Quite impressive on just the standalone system by adding the vehicle charging it seems like improving the ROI-efficiency, that makes good sense. This makes me wonder, Is solar seen as an asset by Mr. Tax and does it depreciate in value like a car?
  20. This pushes the ROI to outer limits and seems to be going to a point of no return. It’s like Catch-22 for grid tie.
  21. This is a very old post and it seems to re-surface every couple of years, so back it is again. The other night when we had load shedding I realized an additional load of about 220W on the inverter display above what I was expecting, started checking through the house on whats causing this. Most lights inside and outside was on so I didn’t expect it to be lights, until I found four bathroom 12V/50W down lighters that were left on. They were drawing more current than all my other LED lights together. I guess I’ll be converting them soon to led 220V/3W but am afraid of loosing that beautiful effe
  22. In my opinion the small mecer kits are normally not installed as an fixed appliance and is just a portable plug in solution that do not need a C.O.C. because they have no permanent wiring to your installation. You could get away with the plug in type system to feed those small items as-long as it’s not permanently connected and just a plug in for charging purpose. but you also mention the possibility of adding solar panels later, in that case it would probably be better to plan something more permanent with a changeover switch and an inverter you can add on to, but than you would need a C.O.C.
  23. Hi Shahxad you could add a contactor on the Eskom supply power to your inverter and control the contactor with a timer or sonoff switch. What is your reason for switching it off?
  24. Hi Jatho, The small 4A cb is only to protect your sonoff control part, that will only draw milli amps and should never trip, it’s purely to protect the coil you energise and the thin control wire. Because if you have a fault on the sonoff control side or coil you can have a fire if there is only the 20A circuit breaker rated for 2.5mm wire from geyser but sonoff control might be 1mm2 wire like I done useing the pink 1mm2 wire you need to protect that thin wire aswell.
  25. You can use the supply for geyser to also control the sonoff, but I would recommend installing a small 4A fuse or 4A circuit breaker in the event of a sonoff failure. I fitted a 10A control protection (see left) slightly big but better than the geyser 20A, ignore my illegal plug tapped on left, it is my attic light/geyser circuit Hope this help.
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