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Tarek Yag

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  1. Thank you @monsam and @pintopf for your contribution. You went way off-topic here in this thread, please open a new thread to continue your discussion. I'll contact moderartors asking to help move your off-topic posts to your new thread. Kindly,
  2. I'd highly recommend you to disconnect your BMS immediately and use manual charging settings instead for a while, just to make sure as soon as possible that your inverter and battery cells are all good! At least, this way you can have more time to diagnose and discuss/negotiate with your seller. And this way, I think you might rule out the earlier incidents you had with your inverter. I'm sorry, it's not personal at all. it's just for the sake of the community's security. Though, I'm still planning to test it personally, and will let you know for sure if fans are slower than with version 60.95 Wings, huh? I totally understand since I've seen examples of their marketing! Unfortunately, it's common here for reseller companies to be out of the field!!!
  3. Does it happen only when Grid input is available? Did you check if Frequency output is correct (50/60 Hz) on display and/or using an external ammeter? Do you use an AVR (voltage regulator) before/after your inverter? Thanks for your feedback in your first point!
  4. I will try to check more components around the DC/DC MOSFETs as you suggested. We're planning to do the repair job just like last week, on Friday. I just purchased all planned replacement parts, and we're good to go now! I'm hoping to get better repair outcome this time, and it won't hurt if we need one more repair session! I like the journey so far since it's not my main study field! Most probably not! We already checked the soldering condition of every component on the inverter last session.
  5. There should not be any other files/folders on the root directory of the flash drive other than the update file itself. In your case just make sure that the filename is correct (refer to Coulomb's details). It is known that it might cause a lot of issues when performing a firmware reflash for any kind of equipment. The file readers in these basic equipment are not full fledged file managers, they're so tiny and too simple to handle file management.
  6. Just close your browser, then clear the cache, then visit again. This usually happens due to corrupt downloads of the site's JavaScript files.
  7. Not the buck diode, it is the small separate one indeed (all photos attached already). Yeah, it won't hurt, and I will replace it after your statement New discovery in my newest reply here, which seems I wrote at the same time you were writing yours. Four pieces only from three different batches is way too much for me! I will check this out now, thank you for the hint! Bad news to me, and I won't figure this out until the very end of the repair! Fingers crossed with all the planned replacements this time it could fix the issue somehow someway.
  8. Yeah, it helped, thank you! Actually, after a few photo reviews, I noticed that my 4 INV Bridge IGBTs were replaced with pieces from 3 different batches!!!!!! I don't know how a sane man could do this! So, even the professional who did that repair, didn't do an acceptable job from my perspective. I'm planning now to replace them all again with brand new four pieces of model YGW60N65 and will check today if I can find a higher Amperage specification of this component. I'm tired of this mess! But at least, this way there will remain no components not re-replaced by me and my close friend at our own standards. @Coulomb
  9. @monsam, thank you for all the details you provided, WOW! Super interesting to me!!! Can't wait to know the end explanation for this! This is most probably the case. As the reflash process takes around 10 minutes, if your Windows Power options (Turn off screen timeout, or Sleep timeout) are less than the period of time needed to reflash, your laptop will interrupt the reflash process when it goes idle and beyond these timeouts. Hence, as soon as you turn on the screen again, you'll get that exact error on the reflash tool. It's known and happens to me if I forget to disable the timeouts before I reflash if I'm to leave my laptop unattended. Nothing to worry about here, you're good to go! I very much agree with your theory, and I'm really impressed of how you analyze things! No wonder, Chinese products really need special logic to understand and explain it @esmail-kassir, any relatable context here with your 24 V one-time issue? Good luck! This makes a lot of sense, no hurry for the photo then. Decent logic! It's obvious you've read everything in this thread! Best wishes!
  10. Here's an update that I wanted to post last Friday, right when I've had my PV & Battery (DC/DC) MOSFETS replacement job done. Replaced MOSFETs had different values each, with two of them having significantly different values than the rest. I, and my professional friend, tested the new MOSFETs before installation, and to our expectation, they all had almost the exact same values as manufacturer specifications. Good indicator, huh? Bad news is that we've found two open resistors (drivers) behind a single DC/DC MOSFET, which I guess explains all the differences I have in my inverter's PV readings when grid is not present. Am I correct? We made sure again that all four INV IGBTs were replaced properly on the previous repair which was conducted by another professional, as I stated before. The only -perhaps- negative thing we noticed is that one IGBT seems to be from a different batch, however it has the exact same model number. Additionally, all these IGBTs have almost the exact same values. Is that okay? One last component I don't feel okay about, and I think it was tampered with on the first repair / mess, is component D82 which is located at the bus soft start circuit. When I checked my inverter the very first time I noticed a very bad soldering job and a mess on the board around it. So, I'm planning to replace this at the same time with the MOSFET drivers (resistors) I need to replace next. This time we re-soldered it quickly till we replace it the next and hopefully last repair. Any thoughts? @Coulomb Would you please confirm that I'll be good with replacing all DC/DC drivers (resistors) with their original same values (SMD 47R0 and 4702)? And please answer my questions at the end of each of my previous paragraphs. PV & BAT MOSFETs Repair.zip
  11. Please open a separate thread for your request, or post in another thread related to Axpert King firmware.
  12. @monsam, welcome to the community! Sorry for my late response as I was sick the last couple of days. Would you please provide us with a photo of your inverter's sticker? You can blur or wipe out the last 6 digits of the serial number for privacy purposes, if you would like to. Another thing, did you buy your inverter brand new? Or conducted any repairs? I recommend upgrading your display firmware, too! I'm interested too! Whether you used a Flash Disk and updated using OTG directly, or used a computer and a USB cable, would you please describe what hardware/cables did you use exactly in each update attempt? If you'd go with quieter fans, consider testing 60.95 in the future, as 60.10 doesn't have quiet fans logic, but not before solving your grid bypass mode issue! Just to make things clear, so you're saying that you're measuring the AC output with an external ammeter and it still gives you that there's an output of around 9 Amps? Did you try wiring an electrical extension lead/strip with no loads connected to it? I mean Instead of wiring your actual home loads on the AC output of the inverter.
  13. I'll be more than happy to assist in the rewrite after a while I just had my inverter's PV and Battery MOSFETS replacment job done today. I have very important updates that I'll post in a couple of hours in my respective thread, and ask for more assistance! After I finish the whole repair process, I'll begin with the calibration project by taking the promised readings first, gotta need your rewrite then!
  14. Thanks for joining in! As far as I'm aware of, there's still only one hardware version of the VM IV display. Hence, only one major firmware version for each VM IV type (Twin and Non-Twin). As for your VM IV Twin display, the only major firmware version we're aware of is (39.xx). Though, there's one minor update that we found out recently, which is 39.27, you can find it in the following post: https://powerforum.co.za/topic/29708-collection-of-dsp-axpert-firmware-for-vm-iii-twin-and-vm-iv-twin/?do=findComment&comment=210925 Regarding whether or not it's possible to figure out which MCU version to use based on the DSP version, I'm not aware of any clues that determines which goes with which, especially after my recent findings for the VM III series.
  15. Unfortunately, it seems like our inverters do not make as accurate measurements as our BMSs. But, I still believe it's not something that we really need to worry about, it might be due to cheaper components than other higher value Axperts. I guess, if @Coulomb by the end of analyzing this phenomenon with us, says that what we need to worry about only is calibrating the voltage reading to the BMS with no current flowing, and it's safe otherwise. In this case, I think we'll be fine with these VM models! I'm more excited now to take my readings as soon as possible, hoping to have the needed free time soon! It would be very helpful if you could provide us with more new readings for different operation scenarios from your inverter so that we can compare. @esmail-kassir too? I think this is not a bug, but due to the display design which refreshes data. It's obvious that the display in VM IV models doesn't show real time data. Thanks for joining the discussion!
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