Tarek Yag

Here is another HEX File Only Package of (DSP / Main CPU / U1) firmware for VM III TWIN and VM IV TWIN.
An updated list of available packages in this thread can be found in the very first post at:
https://powerforum.co.za/topic/29708-collection-of-dsp-axpert-firmware-for-vm-iii-twin-and-vm-iv-twin/
CREDITS: Original uploader of the attached firmware file:
@AMalakani DSP version 70.00 dated 2023/06/28
Note: Quiet fans control logic got introduced in this version + I copied this firmware's full package from the uploader's post at the AEVA Forums
Link to original package post
USE AT YOUR OWN RISK, NO GUARANTEES WHATSOEVER!
DSP Reflash Tool is always available in the very first post of this thread at:
https://powerforum.co.za/topic/29708-collection-of-dsp-axpert-firmware-for-vm-iii-twin-and-vm-iv-twin/
Detailed instructions of how to update/reflash firmware of Removable and Round Display inverter models, posted by @Coulomb at:
https://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?p=87767#p87767
If you think your inverter is bricked, there are a number of helpful tips posted by @Coulomb at:
https://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?p=59897#p59897
Enjoy!
VM TWIN (III & IV) DSP 70.00 hex.zip

Hello everyone,
Based on the frequent need for firmware of VM III TWIN and VM IV TWIN, and as I also own a VM IV TWIN 4kW; I aim for this thread to gather all available main firmware, which is always referred to by the names (DSP / Main CPU / U1), for the aforementioned two models specifically. This thread will always be open to newer and future firmware contributed by all members. Please note that firmware for these two models always seem to be interchangeable, so far at least.
In this thread, you will find more posts by me containing attached HEX File Only Packages of (DSP / Main CPU / U1) firmware. Each package contains an extracted HEX file only from each firmware version's original full package which is provided and attached by other members in this forum. Again, these files are specifically for VM III TWIN and VM IV TWIN models ONLY; Using these firmware files with any other inverter model will BRICK your inverter! Please always remember that every firmware is intended for a specific inverter model.
Please note that each firmware version has its own advantages, disadvantages, and possibly bugs! For your own testing, it's just trial and error, then you keep the version that you believe is the best for your inverter in the end.
CREDITS: The original uploader of each firmware version package will be mentioned in all posts containing HEX File Only Packages.
USE AT YOUR OWN RISK, NO GUARANTEES WHATSOEVER!
DSP Reflash Tool will always be available in the very first post of this thread. It is uploaded here as a separate attachment for ease of download.
Detailed instructions on how to update/upload firmware of Removable and Round Display inverter models, posted by @Coulomb:
https://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?p=87767#p87767
If you think your inverter is bricked, there are a number of helpful tips posted by @Coulomb at:
https://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?p=59897#p59897
 
[UPDATED POST] Available firmware versions ordered from newest to oldest:
 
[UPDATED LIST] HEX File Only Packages in this thread:
1. DSP Versions: 60.04 , 60.05 , 60.06 , 60.89
2. DSP Version: 68.04
3. DSP Version: 70.00
4. DSP Versions: 60.95 , 84.00
5. DSP Version: 60.87
6. DSP Versions: 60.10 , 71.03
VM TWIN (III & IV) DSP Reflash Tool.zip

Hello. This morning I've been tinkering with the inverter. I've already had a chance to take a photo of it. I'm updating the screen firmware and testing its operation.
Below is a photo of the inverter and its label:
 
 
As I mentioned in a previous message, I have already updated the inverter to version 60.10, but the screen was still on version 25.12. Today I took the opportunity to update to version 25.15.
The update went well the first time and everything worked correctly. Tomorrow we will see if it has served to correct the problem of starting in 24V mode.

Regarding the other 2000W problem, which did not improve with the update to 60.10, I have tried to see the behavior by changing the "AC Input Range" parameter from APL "Appliance" to UPS. When changing to UPS, the consumption dropped radically to about 325VA.
So, with APL and the round metal button not pressed, the consumption from the grid is around 40W, with the round metal button pressed, the consumption rose to 2000VA.
Now, with UPS, with the round metal button not pressed, the inverter consumption from the grid is around 40W, with the round metal button pressed, the consumption increases to 325VA. And if I turn on the batteries in SBU mode, the consumption from the grid drops to 0W. This is the desired and expected behavior for me.
The software updates of the inverter have not affected this behavior, and I believe that the inverter works correctly at this point, and I am just discovering how the parameters affect the behavior of the inverter.
 
When I have more data on whether the screen update has positively affected the 26V start, I will continue to report.
 
 
 
 
 

I testet it at my 4kW VMIII and the result is: 55W with depressed button and 65W with pressed button.
My mode was "SBU"
I switch an measure the grid with an "shelly 1 PM"
 
Why do you not use a automatic power transfer switch to solve your problem? I think, that this mode (without battery) is not optimal for the inverter.
I use this switch: (see photo)
 
 

Thanks @Jamil Tulimat. You've given me the idea of testing the UPS mode. It hadn't occurred to me. I'll check how it behaves.
However, do any of you know or have measured whether your inverters behave in a similar way in 4Kw or 6Kw? As @Coulomb said, it seems reasonable that it uses reactive energy, but I'd like to compare with the rest of you, if any of you have the data, whether so much reactive energy is normal in these models, or is it a particular case of my inverter.

The thought about the lack of voltage drop and the numbers was very cool. However, I can already tell you that it must not be because of the low voltage drop, and it must be more because of what @pintopf say.
In any case, I'll tell you. I added more resistance to the solar panel circuit. I put 60 more meters of 6mm cable. A total of around 75 meters of cable in the DC circuit of the solar panels. It did not increase the voltage drop enough, but I hoped it would do something. Additionally, the day dawned very nice and clear.
And the inverter started indicating 26V.   I can't find or understand why sometimes, although rarely, it does start the first time at dawn in 48V mode, but most times it doesn't.
 
I've had EEPROM errors in the past. Now I'm going more along those lines of thinking. That is, something went wrong due to intermittent, low power starts, and now it won't start properly except for some specific conditions. However, now it doesn't show any EEPROM errors when starting in 24V mode.
I'm hoping that overwriting the display firmware will fix the problem, just for the sake of overwriting it. If it fixes it, I'll avoid starts with just the solar panels unattended in the morning.
 

I'd highly recommend you to disconnect your BMS immediately and use manual charging settings instead for a while, just to make sure as soon as possible that your inverter and battery cells are all good! At least, this way you can have more time to diagnose and discuss/negotiate with your seller.
And this way, I think you might rule out the earlier incidents you had with your inverter.
I'm sorry, it's not personal at all. it's just for the sake of the community's security. Though, I'm still planning to test it personally, and will let you know for sure if fans are slower than with version 60.95
Wings, huh? I totally understand since I've seen examples of their marketing! Unfortunately, it's common here for reseller companies to be out of the field!!!

If your inverter starts at the first attempt in the morning? 
Without grid and power-button "off", my inverter often destroy the EEPROM Data at the interupted boot attempts, as i showed yesterday
 
 
Not the same, but with the older display-firmware my battery lost sometimes (1 - 2 times per day?) the conection to the inverter, the battery symbol at the display stop blinking, and the warning shows.
After i installed the new firmware, this never happens again. (or it happens, if i'm not in front of the inverter?)

please note that Decibel could be misleading as it is not intuitive, for example  40 is quite and could be considered as your 0  and 60 could be unboreable for you 

LOL 
 
I've did it already , 60.95 still noisy as its low fan level is somehow still high . but I forgot to test it with the decibel meter 
but regarding 60.76 
1 meter away from the inverter 
when no temperature  40 to 45 decibel 
when high temperature or charging or providing more than 3000 W output :65 decibel 
 
on the couch in the same room where  the inverter is located
when no temperature 30 decibel ( it could be the ambient noise )
when high temperature or charging or providing more than 3000 W output :50 decibel 

I'd highly recommend you to disconnect your BMS immediately and use manual charging settings instead for a while, just to make sure as soon as possible that your inverter and battery cells are all good! At least, this way you can have more time to diagnose and discuss/negotiate with your seller.
And this way, I think you might rule out the earlier incidents you had with your inverter.
I'm sorry, it's not personal at all. it's just for the sake of the community's security. Though, I'm still planning to test it personally, and will let you know for sure if fans are slower than with version 60.95
Wings, huh? I totally understand since I've seen examples of their marketing! Unfortunately, it's common here for reseller companies to be out of the field!!!

mine is 25.12 so I don't have any more thing to do
have you faced the exact same issue as mine ? 

I had similiar problems in communication between my inverter and the pylontech-batteries.
The display firmware update to version 25.12 fixed it.

It’s a bit complicated to explain, as I’m dealing with multiple issues. My main problem is that my inverter shows a BP error during the day, beeps, and then returns to normal. Sometimes, it even shuts down at night. Based on my analysis, I suspect the issue is with the BMS communication to the inverter. When this communication interrupts, the inverter receives incorrect data about the battery status, possibly assuming it’s disconnected or at low voltage. I’ve tried resolving this with a software update, but the issue persists.
 
Regarding the 24V issue, so depends on the previous issue MAYBE the inverter might shut down when I’m asleep and then restart with sunlight. On one occasion, I only noticed it showed 24V in the app while providing output normally, but it wouldn’t charge. Later, I updated to the latest software, which temporarily resolved the issue (maybe because upgrading is essentially a restart), but neither Triple A maintenance team nor the seller could provide a permanent solution.
 
As for the fan noise, I still believe that my version (60.76) has the smartest fan logic, making it the quietest. However, the resellers (from the another local brand, which isn’t my inverter’s brand) refused to share the complete hex file with metadata, so guys you don’t seem like to add the file to the thread here 🥲, these resellers lack technical understanding; for example, they referred to the VFD inverter’s “soft start” feature as “soft star” in official marketing videos LOL —so it’s challenging to collaborate.
@pintopf @monsam

No ofc it only happens when on inverter mode(sun and no sun), so no grid , no regulators. just pure chinese juice
all ratings seem fine the only thing i think about is that there is a problem in the output waveform , the only access to an osciloscope is in my college and they r not planning to lend me one 🥲 

1- The only thing similar to this that i noticed is when i put the inverter mode on UPS it repeatedly draws about 1Amps AC on and off and on the battery end at the same time it cycles between drawing 1.5A at 25v which is the normal no-load draw to 0.4A and then again to 1.5 and so on.... 
I changed it back to APL and it stopped doing those weird draw patterns.
 
2- A question for fellow 4kw VM-III owners : Do you guys notice  flickering on neon or incandescent lamps 
because some times the flickering becomes noticeable to an annoying level !
and by the way i tried with no-load , high-load and it's the same.
 

Just close your browser, then clear the cache, then visit again. This usually happens due to corrupt downloads of the site's JavaScript files.

Have you checked all the transistors, diodes, resistors, and zeners in that area? Especially for that MOSFET where the two resistors failed open circuit. Unless it was a soldering problem perhaps.

Hi @ monsam,

i  had a similiar problem with my VMIII Twin / 4kW last year,  in my case lost the inverter his serial number.

The problem was, that in the morning, with 230V off  and Inverter off (round button not pressed), when the sun begin to shine, the solarpanels create not enough energy for complete startup the inverter, so many attempts were made, until he starts.

Every attempt causes an interrupt in the start-up procedure, and sometimes the EEPROM becames corrupt. You will see it in Watchpower, Energy-Mate or Dessmonitor under "Alarm"      

 

It looks like both the gate series resistor (47Ω) and the gate pull-down resistor (47 kΩ) were blown. To blow the pull-down resistor, there must have been very high gate to source voltage, which I would expect to cause more problems earlier in the gate driver circuit. But I would not expect it to affect PV measurements.
Yes, as long as the part numbers are the same, it's fine to pair them up even if from different batches.
That's probably the buck diode, if it came from the long heat-sink, not a small separate one. [ Edit: Duh! The photo clearly has a separate heatsink on it. Sigh. ] It's probably fine to just clean up the soldering, but replacing it won't hurt.
I've actually never designed circuitry with MOSFETs or IGBTs; when repairing I've always been happy to leave the series gate resistor the same value as originally used. If you can find a recommended value for that resistor in the datasheet specs, then you could use that value. My feeling is that the Voltronic inverters are designed with fairly wide dead-time, so that they can just use whatever parts they can get for production, without having to match them to the MOSFETs.

Hello, thank you for the welcome and your comments.
 
I do a test according to the following scenario:

The inverter is plugged into the grid via AC In. The inverter also has the AC Out output activated, but the general circuit breaker from Inverter AC Out to the house is down to eliminate any load. No batteries or solar panels.
I start the test with the AC Out circuit breaker down, with the round metal button on the inverter screen not pressed, and the inverter off and unplugged. Then I plug the inverter into the grid. It starts up and the meter on the AC In cable from the grid to the inverter indicates 40W. I press the metal button to activate bypass mode, but without loads. Then the meter on the AC In cable from the grid to the inverter increases to 2000W. Then I measure the rest of the ground/earth cables. And also the panel and battery circuits, although it is absurd because they are circuits that are open, but just in case there is a leak. And nothing, there is no leak.

Unfortunately I do not have meters that distinguish reactive from active energy. However, as you say, there is no other option than reactive. Without thinking too much about it, I think it is a preventive load that the inverter makes in order to absorb changes between DC and AC energy sources in milliseconds. Or it is an error of the inverter. In any case, it is an aspect to consider because a considerable reactive energy is being introduced into the grid, and the wear on components such as the inverter, wiring, etc. as well.
Something that would help me to discern if it is an anomalous behavior is to know if other users of the inverter also observe this same behavior. Or even if someone knows why this happens and how to mitigate this behavior.
 
I used the second method described in the thread explaining how to perform the update. That is, I used a laptop to perform the update, connecting a USB A to Micro USB cable. I connected this cable from the laptop to the inverter to its Micro USB. The inverter was already on with only the batteries. Then I opened WatchPower on the computer to check that the inverter was correctly detected, and I downloaded logs and browsed through the different parameters.
Then, from the WatchPower application on the mobile I activated the factory reset and removed logs (I preferred this option simply because it gave me more confidence). Then, I closed WatchPower on the laptop, and removed the automatic startup of WatchPower at the start of Windows 11 and restarted the laptop. I checked that WatchPower did not start in the task manager. And I started the update.
This failed the first two times with a read error and at different times. This made me think that the inverter memory was fine as it was not writable error, and that the update file was not corrupted because it happened at different times. So I thought that Windows 11 might be slowing down by going into sleep or low power mode, reducing latency or voltage of the SSD. I thought this because the update takes quite a while without me, as a user, interacting with the computer.
So on the third attempt I accessed the Windows 11 file explorer and kept browsing through folders and opening small text files, to keep a constant interaction with the computer.
There is no real basis to what I did, nor anything to confirm that what I did helped the update go well that third time. But it did. It may just be a coincidence.
 
Thanks, I think so too, that it's just the display getting this wrong.
The problem with the 26V start is what has me most baffled. I have come to think that it happens on the days that dawn more cloudy, and that it does not happen on the clearest ones. I think that it could be that on cloudy dawns the starting voltage is reached very soon but that there really is not enough amperage for a correct start of the screen, and that on sunny days there is enough amperage. I also think this because the 5 panels each have a Vmp of 44.68V, a Voc of 53.99V, with an Imp of 13.43A, in a configuration of 14m (7m+7m) of 6mm DC cable of the panels, and it starts to get colder in the morning when we are in the mountains. That is, there is almost no voltage drop which improves the start of the inverter but without amperage.
I have not really noted how it dawned each day, but I sincerely believe that this pattern coincides. It could be this, or that the inverter is broken.  
I also did another test yesterday. On the second start it always starts well. So yesterday I didn't let it start by itself, leaving the circuit breaker on the panels down. And when there was enough sunlight, I turned up the circuit breaker on the panels and the inverter started well on the first try.
Yes, I will be brave and I will upgrade my display next weekend.  
 
Ok. I can't right now, because I'm not there right now, only my father is doing the tests for me, and I'd rather not bother him with the photos. But I'll send the photos next weekend.
I am almost 99.99% sure that it is an original Voltronic, without a reseller. I bought it from a retail chain (Obramat) mentioned by Voltronic itself as an authorized seller. This one is brand new, unpacked and checked without any signs of use. In fact, I still have time to return it to the store.
 
I installed the 60.10 because it is the latest version on Voltronic's FTP and because the inverter is in the basement of a country house and I don't mind the noise. In fact, I prefer them to run faster because even though Voltronic released alternatives for quieter operation, they preferred to keep the fans at a higher speed in the original retail products. I guess that way they think the useful life of the components is extended, even if it is a minimum. However, it is almost certain that the fans will not last longer and will break sooner. But these are easy to replace, I think.  
However, seeing that it is one of the most used versions, I had it prepared as an alternative to 60.10, and if I had had a third failure during the update I would have tried 60.95. And I don't mind that it makes less noise either  . So I haven't ruled out trying it yet.
 
Thanks for everything!

Tarek Yag hello, here are two photos with the original parts. I hope it helps.

Please open a separate thread for your request, or post in another thread related to Axpert King firmware.

The Sna 5000 and now the 6000 is good solid machines. They are both listed on Coct approved inverter list. The Sna 6000 employs an external Ct as a true Hybrid inverter. They are good value for money. I installed the Sna 6000 with Dyness A48100 and 4kwp pv 2 months before i left for MRU. The client want to add 2 more Dyness batteries. All and all good budget choice.
 


 

Welcome to the forum.
That will be reactive power for sure, i.e. 2000 VA not 2000 W. But that 8 A will heat the cable just the same as a 2000 W load (at unity power factor).
But that's about 5x the reactive power than I expect to see. Perhaps this model has a particularly large smoothing capacitor, compared to 5 kVA models. I'm not surprised that the firmware update didn't fix this issue.
Your model uses the same firmware for 4 kW and 6 kW models; it decides which it is running by measuring the voltage at a particular input pin on start-up. But the display has to ask the DSP what model it's running as well. If the DSP gets the model wrong, catastrophic problems are likely. If the display gets it wrong, then that's just a nuisance. It looks like it's just the display getting this wrong. It's possible that a firmware update to the display will fix this problem.
Be brave!
As a point of interest, were you using a USB stick and On The Go USB cable to update the main firmware?
That seems to be a bad translation. Could you re-word, please? I'm curious, especially if you have stumbled onto a method of making firmware updates more reliable.