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Ok, so after much troubleshooting the issue is now resolved. The culprit was bobbins on a fence post that takes the fence around a 90 degree bend. AFter spraying the fence down with the garden hose, I was able to hear a soft clicking coming from this specific post. After a thorough check I found 3 bobbins to be faulty. I replaced all three and now the fence is working as it should. Thank you everyone for your guidance, much appreciated.

I will try this and then get back to you. Thank you.

I will try this and then get back to you. Thank you.

Unfortunately the fence does have some sections with rust. If I replace a rusty section is there anywway to test and see if the condition of the fence has improved?

So I have 6 lines, From the bottom going up lines 3 and 4 appear to be the earth lines. Would it be possible for me to split the fence up into sections by bridging the live and the return at certain points to try and find the issue faster.

Correct 3 ht wires, earth bridged at energizer and other 2 are loop.

No. So the 9kv reading is when I connect the tester directly to the end of the HT cable without the HT cable connected to the fence, therefore HT connected to energiser and on the fence side I disconnect it from fence and put the tester onto the HT cable.. The 0.8kv reading is when I connect the HT cable back to the fence and I measure directly on the fence within a couple of centimeters of the HT cable. Hope that makes sense.

I have one cracked bobbin but it was cracked before this issue occured. None the less I will replace it and see if it makes any difference.

So I did as you suggested and it measures 9kv. So probably the fence. Is there a way to break the fence up into sections? Please also correct me if I am wrong but with the Nemtek tester as you move along the fence if the Amps become higher you are getting closer to the issue, is that correct? Along the fence where is the best place to start troubleshooting, at the furthest point or the closest point to the energiser? Also should I test on all the cables or pick one and continously test on that one. Apologies if some of these questions sound stupid, I am slowy trying to understand how this whole setup works.

So double checked now, it's not vegatation.

I have a Nemtek Druid Energiser. Since last week the energiser is displaying fence voltage bad on the display. I have performed the following troubleshooting steps but I am still unable to determine where the issue is: I have tested the energiser with the nemtek tester/fault finder with all cables unplugged I get a reading of 10kv. I have a nemtek double pole lightening diverter, I have bypassed the diverter but issue persists. I have performed a continuity test on the 3 HT cables from the energiser to the fence and all three have continuity. When I check the fence at the point where the HT cable connects to the fence reading is 0.8kv I have walked the the entire fence and by eye i do not see any problems with the fence Any suggestions on what to test next will be appreciated. At this point I am not sure how else to check the system. Thank you

Thank you Achmat and Yellowtapemeasure. I will save up for the extra batteries. In the meantime I allowed the batteries to charge up and then restarted the inverter and the alarm sound stopped. I can still see the code in the history which is fine. Is there a formula to calculate how many batteries one needs?

Morning We have been without grid power the last 2 days. This morning I woke to my sunsynk 8.8kw inverter sounding an alarm f56 DC voltlow fault. My state of charge is 19%. Will this error clear itself once the system charges the battery enough? Or do I need to manually clear the fault. Also if I am getting this error is there a battery configuration that I must change to avoid it discharging to this extent? I have 2 pylontech Us3000 batteries.

Thank you JustinSchoeman. I will use your sequence. I just want to ensure that I don't damage any components by sending them power when they shouldn't have power or by not gracefully shutting them down. I come from a server/storage background and I know that we need to follow procedure/sequence to avoid damage/dangerous situations.

Hi community So I have a silly question. Is there a specific way to switch the sunsynk inverter on and off, sequence of starting and stopping? I have the 8.8kw inverter. Should I switch any breakers off first, do you switch the battery off first or last(pylontech batteries). Also there is a button on the side as well as a switch. What is the difference between them? Thank you in advance.

sunsynk 8.8kw

Thanks Bloubul7, I see that since I changed the cables for the link port the charge % is starting to go up again. Now at 97%.

Thank you Vassen much appreciated. I will monitor the system and see how things go.

Morning, so I switched the cables as per recommendation, that is port link 1 to port link 0 with batteries switched off. After about 5 minutes of running, the master battery appears fine, on the slave battery the run light and Soc lights are all on for about 3 seconds and then all off for about 3 seconds. Is this normal. The red alarm light is not on at any stage, on either of the batteries. Also whilst like this with the cables switched, the Soc on my inverter(sunsynk 8.8kw) shows 94% whereas before I switched the cables it stayed on 88%. So my question is: in current state where run light and Soc lights flash on and off, is this OK or normal?

Thank you Quwatush Shams (Suly), do I need to power down the battery first or can I do it while the battery is running.

Thank you PhilFM, do you perhaps know why it must be connected in this way?

Hi Powerforumn community, I have recently bought 2 pylontech us3000 batteries, I see that when they were installed, the installer connected the comms cable to link port 0 on both of the batteries. When i read the manual and on the forumn, it appears the people connect link port1 to link port 0. Does it make a difference? Thank you