LoganD

@Fuenkli has anyone managed to obtain one of these mythical tokens? I would very much like to get one, would I need to go via my electrician via the municipality? Or what would the process even be?

@P1000 So are you saying that it will be using the current solar power draw for that "Solar Power" threshold? I guess I could set the battery on to 98%, so that if there is sun it should be drawing above 1200W to charge the battery, but the problem is if it is cloudy and the battery reaches 100%, and then the clouds move, the capacity for >1200W is there, but I will need to again draw spurious load just to get it to trigger the Aux on? Seems less than ideal 😕

To follow up, here is my Solarman graph for today. It looks like the solar dips off as the battery reaches 100%, but there is/was not a cloud in the sky, so to me it looks like the aux load should have switched on as the battery reached 100%, which would have filled in that whole dip. I'll be sad if this is how it works, because then it is kind of random when it switches on, because it will be based on me needing to get above 1200W of consumption once the batteries are full, or it will mean turning that threshold down, but then it will chow more of the batteries, quicker. Surely one could calculate the "potential" solar power from the irradiance/voltage across the panel, even if there is no load?

Sorry to revive this post again, but I have a question about the "Aux Load -> Solar Power" setting. Does this setting measure potential solar power, or currently producing solar power? What I mean is, if the batteries are full, and no load is drawing, the inverter shows Solar power of ~0W. But with a big load, it could be producing close to maximum kWp. My setup is 3.6kWp, and I have a 2kW geyser on the Aux load. I've set the Solar Power setting to 1200W and battery on 100%, off 90%. Does the solar power dial on touch screen home need to be above 1.2kW for the Aux port to switch on? So if I'm not home and using the pump/lights/pc's etc and the solar production never goes above 1200W, will the Aux switch on? I ask because I was watching it just now to figure this out, the sun looked to be pretty strong, batteries at 100%, but the load was sitting at 800W (aux was off). Then the water pump came on, pushing it over 1200W, and then I heard the Aux relay click over, and solar production jumped to 2.6kW, and then stayed on. Is this possibly how it works? I feel like it should be able to be smarter about it, because if I don't break the 1200W barrier my geyser will never turn on, but maybe I need to monitor the behaviour a bit closer...

@Axpert I have the RCT Axpert VM 2000W and the fan was killing me. It would turn on at 40deg and only stop once going below 20deg (which is impossible here in summer). I found a different solution than new fan/firmware. I bought this PWM controller: https://www.banggood.com/12V-DC-PWM-2-3-Wire-Fan-Temperature-Control-Speed-Controller-Noise-Reduction-Module-p-1811340.html?cur_warehouse=CN Brilliant little 2/3 pin PWM module. I now have it set to come on at 45deg and ramp up to full speed by 65deg. Idles at around 43-47 so the fan is off or really slow most of the time, waaay better than full speed all the time! Hope it helps! (Better instructions for how to configure the thing can be found here)

Sunsynk support is pretty great, they did my upgrade last night! It is now pushing power from solar and battery to the non-essential loads, without the “Sol exp bat full” setting, and after some more testing yesterday that setting was tripping my Conlog meter almost immediately. I’m now having the issue that the feedback from oven switching on/off is tripping my meter 😕 I have Zero Export Power set at 40W, but it’s still doing it. When watching the system flow page while the oven is at temperature and the element switching on/off, I can see sometimes upwards of -1000W going into the grid, which is surely going to cause issues. It’s annoying because I can’t have the grid switch off and turn the oven off while I’m trying to cook something, so the non-essential feedback might be dead in the water. Is it possible that if I put my geyser on the AUX it will be able to absorb the feedback? Anyone else having these Conlog tripping issues? Do I just need to set that Zero Export power higher? Would prefer not to waste 2.4kWh a day just to keep the oven from tripping. Anyone had any luck with convincing the municipality to give the token to turn off reverse flow detection?

Yup, you can see from the flow chart that the oven is pulling 4kW from after the clamp but before the inverter, so the clamp is definitely on the mains coming in. Are you sure that your solar is going back into the non-essentials, and its not all just coming from the batteries? Because if you look at my pics it definitely stopped exporting solar to my non-essentials without that "Sol exp bat full" setting checked... Also, why do you have "Grid" checked, do you want the grid to charge the batteries? Is that for in case of load shedding and the batteries drop to below say 50% at 01:00, then the grid charges it back to 50%?

Hmm, maybe I'm misunderstanding something here, but I thought "Zero export" was to stop export to the "main grid", i.e. before the current clamp, which is what I want (on a prepaid meter). But from the testing I did it seems I need to check "Sol exp bat full" for it to export the excess solar to my "local grid", i.e. oven and other non-essentials. So to get solar into my oven it seems I need "Zero export" + "Sol exp bat full" checked, but it's not sending my batteries into my oven, and I'm not sure it ever has... Cool, will do, thanks!

Not sure if this is latest? (5kW) Protocol Version：V0.2.0.1 Control Software Version 1：V2.1.3.7 Communication CPU Software Version：VE.4.1.0

I also thought so, but it's still pulling 1.3kW from the grid while the batteries are at 100%. Do you think it is an issue with the inverter, should I send this to Sunsynk support?

@Vassen @Achmat So, I'm not sure why I was fixated on the 2kW from geyserwise, but took your suggestion and just went with a normal 2kW element 😅 so simple, thanks! I now have another issue, I'm wondering if you guys can help with. So that "Sol exp bat full" setting does seem to be important. I turned my oven on (non-essentials) while there was plenty of sun and no other loads with and without that setting, and you can see from below that it needs to be checked to export your solar to the local grid. Now my issue is that it is not using the batteries to also supplement the local grid, even though I've said that the batteries can drop to 70% (this was between 11:30 and 13:30). Am I missing a setting somewhere? I thought the Zero Export setting + the use of the timer would do this for me? Do I need to check the "Grid" option? I thought that meant to "charge from grid to 70%", is that wrong? No export: (10:30 should read 11:30, old image) With export:

@Vassen Is it really so cut and dry? If the inverter can limit the output power to say 2kW on the aux port, with a fixed voltage of 240V and fixed resistance of the element, would it not just limit the current into the element, so still heat it, but at half the power rating? There seem to be other options with "phase angle control" which can achieve power limiting, like this device, which works similarly to a LED dimmer I believe. Basically the same price as 2kW element from Geyserwise, but at least then I could still connect the element to the non-essential side and switch between 4kW and 2kW when I want... Edit: the manual seems to suggest that Solar Power setting in the Aux settings page is a power limit (see pics below), limiting the MAX power to the aux load, not the switch on power as suggested by @Achmat above. So what would happen if I set this to 2kW and then just attached my 4kW element, would it trip the inverter/aux port? Or would it just draw the 2kW which is what I am attempting to achieve?

@Achmat Hey that's amazing! This device continues to impress I must say, and thanks for all the info, really appreciate it!

Are you talking about on the aux port here? I have a 2kW heat pump so I might be able to move that onto the aux port, although because it has a compressor it doesn’t like to be turned off and on continuously (apparently), do you know if you can control that aux output somehow to run for certain periods (similar to System Mode) or am I reaching too far here? xD

Hey @Tariq, ye I've also thought about doing this, I have a few questions regarding that setup if you don't mind. What happens if I have a 4kW geyser element but only 2kW solar (soon 3.2kW), will the element still turn on? I believe you can supply less than the required power because it is a resistive element, but is there anything extra you need to do to allow the element to only receive 2kW and still "turn on", or will it passthrough 2kW from the grid? Do you know if there is a way to have the geyser on non-essential AND/OR aux, so that I can use the grid to top-up at 4kW when its there, but to still be able to use the solar to heat when load-shedding?