Tinbum

I just tried it and my battery was already at 100%. It saved a file to the log and It reset the SOC at 90% and started to charge it again. Battery capacity has also been reset at 73.999Ah US3000C now it's back at 100% SOC

Never done it myself but I would imagine so.

You can reset the SOC in BatteryView. Never had to do it myself though.

Clue is in the question! ;)

I'd swap the pace for a JK- pretty well direct swap they are very similar and JK is much better..

Many do. My pylontech bleeps like hell if something is wrong.

If this is a problem with the settings in a BMS or what @Beat is saying about when 100% SOC is or is not not being reached (not in this case) then that problem wants sorting, not just for the OP but for anyone with any BMS. This could be a problem for many people but they just don't know it. Perhaps this case has come to light due to the first failed battery (and the high ambient temperatures). A BMS has a much more accurate SOC calculation ability than an inverter that is relying on battery voltage. That is if it is set up correctly, if its not then it needs fixing not disconnecting.

Because the voltage charge setting seems to be too high and for too long. What I do find strange about the OP's problem is that he has had problems on 2 different brands of battery. Are they poorly setup BMS's in the batteries? Are they the same BMS's? Is it a communication issue? Is it an inverter issue? We don't seem to have any data on the first battery other than what the supplier said, overheating- which doesn't mean a lot to me without actually seeing graphs of voltage, (temperature ideally) and current . We need to establish exactly what the problem is and then how to fix it ideally or how do we get round it. Iv'e asked loads of questions but we still seem to be missing some of answers at the moment.. I'm not the sort of person that says lets remove the battery from the smoke detector because it keeps going off. Rather, why does it keep going off?

Yes the BMS will still control the battery but it's not being done in the ideal / safest way. Your example is relying on last ditch protection. Where I live we get cold temperatures and many see their BMS request lower currents to help protect the battery, the same is true for high temps. This is especially important for those that only have one battery pack that is all too common. How will your system do that to prolong your battery life? Perhaps you dont need it where you are, but others do. Also one BMS is not the same as the next.

Sorry, I know you were not, it was meant as a general statement not aimed at you..

That's all very well while the batteries are ok, it's when you get problems with the batteries /cells that things will go wrong. You have an excellent monitoring system, that you use / monitor, so could probably see if their was a problem developing. Most do not. Inverter control was ok for lead acid as they were forgiving, Lithium are not. They don't just put inverter control in a BMS for the sake of it- their is a reason. I've been running mine for over 12 years, first with lead acid and then started on Lithium about 10 years ago. I'm not saying any more on the subject it's up to you what you do with your own system but giving advice on others is a different matter. I'm trying to find the best solution to the OP's problem.

That is not the inverter managing anything it's battery chemistry. Charge a battery with a dumb battery charger and you will see exactly the same.

Can you show a photo of the front of the battery? It may well have a branded (Pace) BMS in it from what I have found. If so you can use software to access it and see what the settings are and change them.

This is an interesting thread on your first battery; https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/211798/multiplus-ii-soc-reading-incorrect.html Last entry- "So it turns out the underlying problem was that the batteries had different parameter settings on some of them. One had its overvoltage alarm on 54v and its fully charged voltage setting at 52v, so this is why i was getting strange SOC readings, and over voltage errors on the GX. So after a bit of hacking around with PbmsTools.exe and having to guess the admin password, I eventually reset all the parameters on all the batteries! Yay" Says a lot for the brand!!

That's a shame. As you've had, are having, problems with two different types of battery I would certainly check that the inverter is operating correctly. I don't have or know the KODAK inverter so can't help with settings. I myself would also sniff the communication CAN bus between the two and see what messages are going through. (Easy enough to do but you do need equipment). When you removed the CAN cable did the inverter go into fault? Can you see what the inverter settings are , on a screen (photo) , when the BMS is connected and not connected? Your battery shouldn't stay at charge voltage for that long unless it is cell balancing but as it's at 100% SOC I wouldn't think it would be doing that.

So is it the same over voltage with 2 different types of batteries? This is my voltage for one of my sets. It stays at the high voltage for a few minutes only. They are now just sitting their waiting to be called to discharge. No charging no discharging.

My Pylontech shut off the inverter charging once at 100% SOC, so no float. (Float, absorbtion (and equalise) are terms really carried over from lead acid). Is this now a warrant replacement battery? If so I would go back to them and ask for your money back. It shouldn't be staying at that high a voltage for so long assuming its got to 100% SOC. Or ask for a firmware update. Is when the voltage drops only occurring when the battery is discharging?

You can see from your graphs that where the voltage is high the current is actually very low , as you would expect. Normally heat will be generated at high currents. Your temperature graph is not for the same time period- do you have one for the voltage / current period?

The case is the heatsink. Can you show a photo of your BMS then we may be able to identify it?

I have some JK-BMS with the active balancers and they are indeed good.

I do see it in perspective. The batteries will get warm even if the BMS has no fault. You have already said your ambient can be 35 degrees regularly so you are not far off where the batteries should be limited to say 0.2C. Your inverter won't do that by itself. The BMS's I've seen tend to send settings to the inverter to limit current. As to whether your bms has the ability to limit current, I don't know. It may well just shut down when the batteries get too hot, but at what temperature. You've already had temperature problems on a big scale and I am looking at this from a safety perspective. What value you put on safety is your decision. Yes forums are great as is the internet and I've learnt a hell of a lot myself. But their is a lot of misinformation and you have to be able to sort out what is what. My son doesn't see the point in going to school and said he could just ask ChatGP for anything he needed. My reply was yes you can but you have to have the knowledge to know what it is telling you is a) feasible and then b) correct. I tried an AI bot the other day and it shocked me. The answers were often taken from a forum comment (not this one) and they weren't right!!

This tread started off all about the batteries getting too warm and here we are recommending that the batteries be connected to an inverter without communication. This is crazy. The batteries are already getting hot due to the location. All inverters are dumb. You can set a charge / discharge voltage and a max current and that is it- that does not make them intelligent. They have no idea what the battery is doing. Below are the temperature settings for a Pylontech battery, presumably your going to set your inverter for the charge and discharge worst case temperatures or risk destroying the batteries again. As I said before the best coarse of action, and safest, is to swap out the BMS.

I have read your thread before. I disagree, nearly all problems are user error or bad inverters. Inverters don't manage at all. They set a voltage and that is it. They wouldn't have a clue if the battery had a problem and would just keep pumping out the Watts no matter how dangerous it was. They wouldn't even know to reduce the current if the battery was too hot or cold. Using without communication is a bad idea and potentially dangerous. Manufacturers wouldn't put it in their batteries if it wasn't necessary and in some cases it is a requirement of the warranty.

Yes, generally in off the shelf batteries their is no way to change the settings but if they are wrong then the manufacturer should be informed and the battery returned. I sniff the CAN communication in my setup and I also alter some settings before passing them on to the inverter. My Pylontech batteries do control the inverters very well but two settings I do change, one because I think it's too high and the other because of my application. The battery charge voltage request is 53.2v, which I change down to 52.5v on 6 days of the week. The other is the charge current. I have 2x US3000C batteries on a PV setup with 8kW of panels on a 4kW inverter. The BMS would request a max of 74A but I limit it to 20A as that's enough to charge them during the daylight hours and will hopefully increase longevity of the batteries.

I'm not missing the point at all. As I understand it @Beat doesn't believe in have communication at all, not just in this case. I know how exactly how a BMS works. If the BMS is giving the wrong settings to inverter then the battery should be returned as being unfit for use. It shouldn't have been taken apart as they are not going to accept it back like that. Many people on here have problems with batteries going over voltage and most of the time it is either a cheap inverter, BMS communication not being set up correctly or wrong settings when their is no communication. Removing BMS communication is not generally the correct solution. The BMS normally incorporates protection features to shut down the inverter if something is wrong before the BMS has to activate its own protection. In this case yes it could be a solution as the OP has removed the option of returning the battery but even then I wouldn't be happy at all to run it with a faulty BMS. The better solution is to replace the BMS with something like a JK. The point I was making is that a BMS has excellent protection features that control inverters and they should be used not disconnected.