CapeTown

Keen to see answer, as I essentially just asked the same. No idea why this simple bit of info is glaringly missing from the SunSynk manual.

I knew I'd seen it - and a quick check shows the same "table" for DIP switch settings (atttached from ONLINE PDF manual). Yet, on the single page "manual" (with same table) that ships with the battery, there is only talk of multiple batteries. ie. logic in that case would say for single one all DIP switches would remain down in the off position. Again, a variance and easily solved as we go in with loads of reading, by why on earth omit that one sentence in the paper manual (one pager) shipped with the battery. Bizarre.

About the only thing. 😂 As one who works though loads of documention to go out, I can confirm two things doing the install: Hubble and SunSynk are definitely competing for lack of crucial details in both their documentation offerings. So I step back and say "well, probably this is designed to be installed exclusively by professionals". But no, I see the same very "professionals" asking similar questions in months / years back if I scrub through the forums / online. So even in context, it shows a complete lack of UX thinking of the end purchaser. SunSynk for example goes on and on about the importance of a CT coil, and even that it MUST be the right way!!!!! (insert extra exclamation marks) but never actually says WHICH way the arrow must point. Is it to the municipal meter? Is it to the main switch DB load? Who the hell knows (if you were to read the manual exclusively). What I have seen is that there is a MASSIVE (Gupta sized 😅) gap in the market for someone to do some great CLEAR instructions / diagrams for installs using a range of standardised parts. No one wants to invest in this, and that's a pity. There's amazing resources here, but a simplified drawing / specs... "put this here" "connect this here" etc... would work so well. Maybe when done I'll draw up clear ones and share. 🤓

Thanks - just wasn't sure if they were common the + + and the - - . Appreciate the feedback and help. Hubble, a single line in your documentation would be appreciated. 😅

this was quite helpful (almost exact Q).... but I cant believe there isn't a X in here from X guide. So many of us are doing this. Would love all the input and learn from you all. Thanks.

forgot to add this is just the box sitting on the table as it came from PowerForumStore.

My last stupid question for this install (but loving it! Will share pics shortly in member installs). Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the Earth / Neutral Box. Whilst I am 99% sure I have this correct as to which wires will come in and out, and then the connection to the inverter ATS (SunSynk 5.5), I'd love a second opinion. 😄 Plus I think just about everyone on this forum is smarter than me. 😅

This is a stupid question, but rather safe than sorry, so am asking. Hubble's manual / paperwork / etc online isn't fantastic already, and I looked at every single install pic I could find on here, but none show the terminals. I labelled the pic below 1 to 4. Which of the terminals do I connect my cables to? My connector under my battery is red and black though, but not sure if I use 1 & 3 or 2 & 4, or it doesn't matter. At the moment I have a single battery only with a SunSynk 5.5 inverter. And on the DIP switches just the 1 up, the other three down? Thanks.

Thanks @P1000 My DB is far away, and I've already run the cables to and from the DB essentials part of the DB in the house. Getting the CT there is almost impossible due to ceilings already being in on flat roof. Stupid Q: any reason NOT to put in meter on DB side?

Never thought of it from that aspect. Good example and thanks! Next question since I'm now curious.... but how / what does the CT coil actually do? From my understanding the CT Coil would figure out the total load and then give the extra power into the non-essentials circuit, but by knowing the load would not exceed it, and thus not "export" to grid? But how does the power from the inverter get "preference" over mains fed in power? A light bulb or geyser just wants power?

Brilliant. I was worried it had to sit tight, but it's quite a gap around the cable. It'll be just after it comes out the meter heading to the DB board, so should be good, but also then the twisted cable only has 0,5m (maybe 1m with trunking route) to go to Inverter input which I gather is a good thing? To get it to my main DB board (Was going to put above the main breaker) is just too far and would need the cable extended, so glad this works. Now to just get the city to pop over and break the seal so I can fit it. Thanks!

First post, so hello everyone! Got all my kit from PowerForum store and about to commence installing.... I didn't want to do it myself (still wont do it all myself, solar panels I will get someone else to do), but the wait times for reputable installers forced my hand. Sunsynk 5kw inverter and hubble am2 battery for now, and later adding a second battery. I just have one question: the CT Coil, how tight does it have to be around the live wire? I've booked the CoCT team to allow me to open my pre-paid meter (it's in the garage next to the inverter location) and want to install the CT coil in there. Firstly, is this location okay (it's a pain to get the CT Coil to the DB Board)? And secondly the "hole" in the CT coil is a lot bigger than the live cable going to the DB board..... so is this okay? Thanks!