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Bloubul7

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Bloubul7 last won the day on December 5 2020

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  1. Firstly you would need to understand how Modbus works. The system is not continously sending and receiving information, Modbus works on a request for information and then responds in accordance. You will have to tell the system which Modbus addresses to request. If you are comfortable with Home Assistant then I would suggest to use the Modbus protocol in HA. https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/modbus/ So to answer your questions: No, but you will need to specify the device that will be utilized to communicate on, in your case most likely /dev/ttyUSB0
  2. In order to minimize your draw from the grid I would suggest the following setting: 05:00 - 20% 09:00 - 45% 13:00 - 60% 17:00 - 70% Based on your current settings, your system will not draw any "shortfall" power from the batteries between 05:00 and 13:00
  3. My suggestion would be to rather save the little extra and go for the 8kw unit. This provides you with more flexibility on both the load and PV side for future.
  4. The remote still works on the Eachen products
  5. The US version fits our sockets. The 1st link will be perfect
  6. Get a Sonoff T3 switch with RF. At the second entrance you can then mount a Sonoff RF remote on the wall.
  7. Home assistant The inverter communicates through Modbus to MQTT
  8. It is fairy easy to do if you have a home automation system. Depending on your inverter model, you can setup communication from your Inverter to your Home automation. I use PV Watts, Battery SoC and Battery Watts to control my pool pump. If it is overcast then the pool pump doesn't run. On sunny days the pump will run during the set time, if the battery SoC is full and there is still some PV Watts left then the pump will run until the system detects that it is starting to use battery power
  9. Hence why I questioned your wiring suggestion
  10. Screenshot number 3 is what you are looking for. The battery % complete indicates the minimium state of charge to which inverter will use the batteries. For example: 05h00 - The inverter will only utilize the batteries until the SoC reaches 80% and then switch over to Grid & Solar 12h55 - The inverter will maintain the batteries to 100% and will not utilize power from the batteries. The system will primarily be powered from Solar & import the shortfall from the Grid. Grid would also be used to charge the batteries So based on your settings, the inverter will
  11. Which inverters are you using? You could use 2 of theses units to connect them to the wifi bridge https://romtech.co.za/product/ethernet-to-rs485/?sfdr_ptcid=31714_617_545382265&sfdr_hash=3915d271f3e67c647976bbf7ed57ca74&gclid=CjwKCAiAnvj9BRA4EiwAuUMDf3SNKLtKEcaasHQ6N1-cNOyTUgV64VJBFVnSNchA4ESkijhyi-uVLBoCXQYQAvD_BwE
  12. How sure are you about tha? Looking at the unit and cable sizing that is purely a voltage meter. Those tiny cables would not withstand high current
  13. Unfortunately I didn't save my yaml layout when I tried out this method. I have played around with various methods to integrate the real time data. Currently playing around with a standalone Pi which uses NodeRed to InfluxDB to Grafana in an attempt to make a standalone package to help out members who doesn't like to tinker. Everything is working great, however making the user interfaces fool proof to suite everybody's needs does take time (which I'm constraint with currently with yearends approaching)
  14. Home Assistant has the Modbus protocol integrated. The unit which you bought converts Modbus RTU to Modbus TCP. You can use the Modbus function directly in HA cutting out the need for NodeRed. Inverter (Modbus RTU) -> Modbus TCP -> Home Assistant https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/modbus/
  15. Pinouts as per above, you need to use the pins as per the bottom picture
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