Pho3niX90

DM me and we csm exchange contacts.

I have no clue what you are trying to communicate?

Here is a bit of an update on my usage thusfar for this month. Heatpump is on 114kWh thusfar, same timeframe last year for the VAC was 75kWh (closer apples to apples), and for last month the VAC was 27kWh (More sunny, 1 - 25th) Major difference being, the heatpump has no schedule and just keeps water warm permanently. The VAC was also on a schedule similiar to yours. (6:00 in the morning, 16:00 later again). I will probably add the same schedule for the next week to see if it makes a difference. I am not entirely sure what my current geyer/tank's standing losses are during 24hrs, I should probably pop up into the ceiling to check the rating.

Hi.. yes it's still available

I think by law you have to specify it in the OTP if you remove Solar, since this forms part of the entire COC process. I believe anything "fixed" to a property need to be disclosed if removed.

I did this excercise 2 weeks ago. To remove panels from the home, and install at the new home, which mind you were 3 houses away, cost me R30K (removal was specified as R2.5K). Granted, the price includes COC, installation of the inverters, panels etc. If you pay someone to do it, the onus is on them to not damage it, and if they do, they need to replace. I also had a major worry about the safety of the panels, but in hindsight, there was nothing to worry about. The best is to get pricing in your area, for your source vs destination.

I see the argument a lot that "lightning will just fry both anyway," and yeah, a direct hit is a total loss regardless, but when last did that happen to you? Mine was more than 20years ago. But taking a page from the IT industry, we don't skip redundancy just because the data center might burn down. You build for the 99% of other failures that actually happen. Here was my logic for going with the 2x Solis setup: If you have one massive inverter and it pops a capacitor or has a firmware glitch, you’re in the dark. Period. With two units, I’ve got a failover. If one goes down, I still have 50% capacity, enough to keep the lights, internet, and essentials running while I sort out the RMA. Running one inverter at its limit is a recipe for a short lifespan. Splitting the load means both units run cooler, which is the best thing you can do for the longevity of the electronics. There’s a reason the high-end guys (Victron, etc.) are so sought after. They don’t do "all-in-one" bricks for a reason, they split the components (inverter, MPPTs, chargers). If one part fails, you don't lose the whole system. By running two inverters, I’m effectively doing the same thing: decoupling the single point of failure, although not entirely as effiecient (power wise) as victron. I’ve now got 4 independent MPPTs. I’m not stuck with one roof orientation; I can add North, East, or West strings later without worrying about voltage mismatches. It makes scaling the PV way easier. So @DAVID-EC , you need to make the decision on what helps now, and potentially covers the future as well. For compatibility, speak to Wimpie from powerforum, as I am sure he will be able to answer that.

Please test the new settings and let us know. The only other settings to change is not available for owner accounts, but installer accounts.

Bat reserved needs to be 100%, if this battery is meant for backups. 20% actually makes no sense for this mode.

Jip. Remember the screenshot of the storage mode screen

The soc is the desired end SOC. If the battery is just there for backup, it's best to enable battery reserve switch, at a 100% soc. A screenshot of the storage mode screen would probably give good insight.

It's mostly normal to charge 180w at the top end of the %, this avoids accidental overcharging. Next, cut the grid, drain the battery to 50%, then charge it back up again. See if that helps. You just need to make sure you haven't accidentally set the grid to max 180w as well.

Is there a system you can recommend? Which salt do you use?

Still extremely early to tell. But findings are as follows. Last month (March) usage with the VAC geyer = 27kWh This month thusfar (1-7 April), with the 3.6HD ITS = 23.77kWh So, heatpump consumes 4x more than my previous VAC Geyser, perhaps in winter they would be equal. Also, my previous VAC Geyeser was roof mounted, so cooled fast.

Honestly the soliscloud is rather slow. You might be catching it whilst it goes into safety. A direct protocol/modbus test would be the best for this. Or by logging into the BMS's RS485 (unsure what BMS they actually use) You might have a unbalanced cell, or the battery might be in a safety mode, perhaps turn it off for 10mins for the bms to reset?

From the looks of things, the battery isn't requesting a charge, and might be in a floating stage. It might be because it's closer to the 100% SOC (currently 97%), get the battery down to 20%, and charge it back up again. to see what the bms request. This is either a BMS issue, or a comms issue. PS: In parallel, email solis support as well so that they can check your settings for you remotely. They are extremely helpfull and fast in their responses.

Recently moved into a new house, where the water is bore -> jojo -> bigblues -> home. The biggest issue I noticed right away is limescale buildup on aerators, and the pools chlorinator. What is the best method of preventing this from happening? Everyone I have contacted that do filters and boreholes, have no experience with water softening. Things I have found thusfar Siliphos Filter Cartridge - Unsure how long they last and if constant changing would wear the filter? Water Softener FRP Vessel - New system, big cost, also unsure how long 10kg of salt would last. I am hoping someone with experience on this matter can shed some light

On the soliscloud app, under device -> battery, see what the amps are registered here. Is grid charging turned on or off? If off, do you have enough solar to support your house load then charge?

Item: 2 x BYD LV Flex Lite 5kWh Price: R10000 each neg (R17K everything) Link: https://leroymerlin.co.za/byd-lv-flex-lite-5kwh-4487eb1f Age: ~-3 years Payment Method Accepted: Cash/EFT/Card/Crypto Warranty: N/A Packaging: N/A, but can package safely if you want it shipped Condition: Excellent (used as backup only) Location: Pretoria Reason: Bought house with the system, I prefer DIY. Shipping: Risk and cost on you. Collection: Yes sure Take both and I will give the "Battery-Box Premium LV BMU" for free.

Item: Victron Multiplus 48v / 5000va Price: R9000 Link: https://herholdts.co.za/pi68190/victron%2Dmultiplus%2D48%2D5000%2D70%2D100%2D230v%2Dve%2Ebus/ Item: Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150 / 70 Tr VE.Can Price: R4500 Link: https://herholdts.co.za/pi68220/victron-smartsolar-mppt-150-70-tr-ve.can Item: Victron Cerbo GX Price: R4500 Link: https://herholdts.co.za/pd942/ci133/victron/victron%2Dcerbo%2Dgx.html Item: Victron GX Touch 50 Price: R2800 Link: https://herholdts.co.za/pd943/ci133/victron/victron%2Dgx%2Dtouch%2D50.html Item: Victron Lynx Distributor 1000 DC Price: R2700 Link: https://herholdts.co.za/pd6682/ci133/victron/victron%2Dlynx%2Ddistributor%2Dm8.html Take it all for R21000 Same info for all Age: ~-3 years Payment Method Accepted: Cash/EFT/Card/Crypto Warranty: N/A Packaging: N/A, but can package safely if you want it shipped Condition: Excellent Location: Pretoria Reason: Bought house with the system, I prefer Solis. Shipping: Risk and cost on you. Collection: Yes sure

For what it’s worth, we’ve been running a 150L electric geyser with a roof-mounted vacuum tube collector for the last four years, and I’ve been seriously impressed. I swapped the standard breaker for a wifi power monitoring smart breaker to get better control. We’re a family of 4, and we mostly shower. The geyser is off by default (electric element) and only triggers under two specific conditions: Excess Solar: It kicks in once the batteries are fully charged and there’s surplus power. Scheduled: It runs daily at 16:00 to ensure we're ready for the evening. It automatically shuts off the moment it hits the set temperature. The above is the sweet spot I have found, to not sacrifice hot water, but also to allow the sun to heat it nicely, and not unnecessarily send it electricity. In four years, we’ve never run out of hot water. To give you an idea of the efficiency: from February 1st to now, it has only used 9kWh (mostly during rainy spells). Over the last 12 months, the geyser used 800kWh out of a total 10,900kWh consumed. That said, I’ve just bought a new property that uses a heat pump. I’ll be switching over in March, and honestly, I’m skeptical it’ll be as efficient as this vacuum tube setup. But let’s see how it performs.

It turns out, the house has a multiplus 1, and because it's a gen 1, the price is almost double. Therefore, the victron system makes no sense for me, I would rather replace the entire all in one inverter (solis) when something fails inside, for less money, than an MPPT or even a multiplus. 1 x 6kw solis cost max R19K 1 x 450/200 (11kw charge max) MPPT averages around 30K 1 x Multiplus Gen 1 averages around 20K (if you can find them)

The issue you mention is present in the Solis brand as well. It's just a hard pill to swallow for the price difference. I have however decided to go with Victron, as it should be cheaper in the long run to expand only the specific areas as needed.

Item: Solis S6 Pro 6kW Advanced Hybrid Inverter (S6-EH1P6K-L-PRO) Age: Oct 31, 2023 (2yr 3m) Price: R12500 Payment Method Accepted: Eft, online payment available Warranty: Yes, bought with powerforum-store.co.za Packaging: Yes Condition: Excellent Location: Pretoria Reason: New property has Victron. Shipping: Sure, risk On buyer Collection: Yes Link: https://powerforum-store.co.za/products/solis-s6-pro-6kw-advanced-hybrid-inverter?_pos=1&_sid=cfc7e01ac&_ss=r The item is currently in use, and will be removed in end of March, I am however creating this classified in the meantime.

I do like the fact that it's modular. I suppose my fears come down to spending roughly 20-40K just to get the same performance I am currently getting. One thing I also noticed is th TR vs MC4, is one better than the other in your opinion? From my current stats, my one string (7 x 555w) produces 255v @ 15.8a, and I cannot seem to find specs that indicate if the 250v is a hard limit on those trackers, that is the only reason I went a step up to 450. Then again 7 panels in series X ~50V (Voc) = 350V, so max 5 panels on a 250/100?