Lionel RUN

Thanks to both of you guys for explaining to me the two ways of dealing with this problem : i.e. : a) Simple input contact(s) activated by means of the solar system dry contacts only (ON or OFF commands towards the wall box) or b) API JSON multiple commands with informations aquired from multiple sensors (in order to "regulate" more accurately the EV car wall box, to increase or decrease the instant charging current, even down to zero, depending on different possible scenarii and informations from the BMS, from the PV voltage at night, from the Battery current direction - i.e. : charging or discharging- , and so on...). As I'm very bad at coding and learning new API languages and stuff, I'm gonna try to find a cool friend to help with solution b) (at least, I'll be able to install my needed sensors + explain my scenarii to him). That's more than nothing. 😉 otherwise, with solution a) , I would be obliged to deal with only very few WallBoxes on the market (the Keba, and very few others ?). Thanks again folks for your expertise + fast answers... And we might contact youguys again, later on, during this "API JSON" project... (a very new word and notion for me).🤣 Kind regards. Lionel

HOW to let the BMS (or the home power plant itself) be "intelligently" communicating with a wallbox Electric Vehicle charger (in full OFF GRID applications) ?? Hello. I'm planning to install an isolated solar plant (totally Off-grid, the solar PV + Battery storage will be the only energy sources for the inverter). A pack of 2 same Chinese inverters model N1F-A5.5P / J5500HP working in parallel (11 kVA), in Mode "SBU" or "Solar First" + a 10 kWh LiFePO4 battery pack + total 9 kWp solar PVs (1 PV string per inverter). Then, I would like to be able to adjust the wallbox power in order to automatically avoid the batteries to become empty when solar power was poor, or at sunset. I'm searching any ways of modulating approximately the EV charging power dynamically in correspondence with the AVAILABLE PV power. But of course, this available PV power has nothing to do with the power that the PV is currently generating ! Indeed, the solar Power that can be available at instant T is a triple function simultaneously depending on the Sun Power at instant T, and on the instant power which is being consumed by the house + the home storage charging Power at same instant T... (And the last term of this function -the Battery storage CHARGING Power- is often varying and is always reduced by the BMS, via the MPPT voltage, sometimes drastically). This home battery charging power then depends on the maximum allowed charging current, and if the Bulk mode is already finished or not, or if the SOC is approaching 100% , etc . ...). Although, despite the wallbox Apps on the market + their corresponding sensors (Carlo Gavazzi, etc. ...) seems not to be proposing such an optimisation for OFF-GRID systems (??) in order to simplify this question, I finally decided to be considering only two modes of priorities about the two batteries systems : I) STOP CHARGING THE CAR : When the home battery is below SOC 50% the home battery becomes the only priority of storage. We would then like to turn car battery charge OFF via the "intelligent" wall-box). II) CAR CHARGING AGAIN : When the home storage SOC becomes higher than 75% again, we'd like to Turn the EV charge ON again untill SOC would become lower than 50%... However, how could we send such simple but "intelligent" commands to the wallbox ? At least, these ON or OFF commands ? The BMS of the home storage + their inverter system are communicating + equipped with a useful 2 way dry contact (NO + NC) that could easily be used here (as an example) : i.e. : a command to stop the charging current in the EV, every time the house storage SOC is passing below 50% (Dry Contact deactivates) the opposite command to restart the EV charge everytime the house storage SOC becomes higher than 75% (Dry Contact activates again). This very simple could be enough to optimize the PV daily production, but without any risk of being less than SOC 50% at sunset because of the EV charge). What kind of simple communication between this dry contact and the wallbox could be used here ? In order to be able to start the EV charge ? Or to stop the EV charge ? Could anyone help here ? Could someone say how we could send AT LEAST, these START or STOP commands to a wallbox ? Same question, if someone knows how to reduce the programmed power of the wallbox to an intermediate fixed level ? Thanks in advance for any help Lionel Paillard.

Hello Green Bum. Sorry for delay... And sorry about the bad news. Did you try replacing old ADDA fan #1 too ? With the second spare Fan (Delta / used too) that you just received ? Who knows, may be, both the two old ADDA fans were dying at the same moment ? That wouldn't surprise me at all. I have been testing several things with the use of : - a borrowed common and cheap single tool : a hair blower set @ low temperature) - an infrared thermometer - a PC connected to the unit (in order to understand what was the displayed temperature connected too ?) OR - with the same air blower (set @ full power / without the thermometer and PC / in order to trigger the air fans -only when I wanted- while scrutating their take-off very accurately). Here are facts that I could discover : A) the fan fault "error 27" is being triggered by either a lack of feedback from connector #1 OR from connector #2. So your option about creating a false square wave time based signal towards the middle pin could probably work of course, but, in my own opinion, this would be technologically diminishing the entire quality of the product, instead of an eventual improvement. Indeed, any future failure on this "bridged feed-back" fan, including a dead animal blocking it (or a faulty connector only) could then lead to a locked fan for months (before you would notice it), especially during winter + low currents, and this would age the inverter components unusefully. I think that cleaning the air filters regularly + always having a used + very cheap (and checked) spare fan (ready for replacements) is a less dangerous solution to this fan problem. B ) When the BATT charging circuit + the load output circuit are both functionning at low level, only the temperature of the heat sensors beeing tracked (installed mostly on heat dissipators) could be triggering the fans start. C) The temperature that is important (and that is actually beeing displayed on your computer, when connected) is the highest temperature (measured from all the 5 or 6 different thermistors-sensors spreaded up in the unit). D) It seems that every single temperature sensor of the unit can then be individually involved in the in the triggering of the fans (i.e. : the hotest one) : The warmest sensor will start them up, when warmer than 40°C (if my memory is good), and the last warmest one will stop them as well, after the cooling down session (after all of them are below 35°C, if I remember it correctly). E) There's never any "five-seconds-emergency" for the fans to be starting-up, because the heat dissipators are big enough to allow temperature inertia. That's why even a 5 seconds delay on a fan take-off would never be any problem (as long as it would be starting at last). And this must be the reason why the constructor designed such a big delay prior sending the fan fault "error 27" to the system. About your 5 (or 4* ?) observations / questions : 1) I Only have one voltmeter, and it seems to me that the fan voltages were applied and increased at the same rate (approximately) on both the two connectors (can not be sure though). I assume you're right, saying that the lazyest take off is only due to the fan model itself only. (easy to check though, If you have any lab voltage regulator, you could just experience it, connecting all the fans in parrallel onto the same two leads (and increase it slowly from 0V to 12V...). 2*) Where did you hide your second* question Green Bum ?😄 3) Too much current from one single connector ? : That's exactly what I didn't want to experience because this unit belongs to my neighbour and I couldn't risk any endangering technique. 4) I used a hair dryer at night (no Batt charging current) at full power (a dryer as a "big load") every time I wanted to trigger the fans (with a big enough output power), or, at medium-warm temperature, every time I wanted to test any specific heat sensor (beeing tracked on computer display) + trigger the fans with the temperature way instead. Both fans seems always to be driven synchronically + at the same Voltage (a cheap design here😉 because they could had been driven at some different speed from each other, depending on the measured Temps and currents). 5) Why is it threatening you ?? did you ever encounter the overheat fault with clean fans + clean air filters ?

Hi Green Bum. And I'm very glad that it worked for you too !👍 Yes, I've experienced the same exact "hesitation" with the new fan. (compared to the shorter start-up, on both the two old ones). I then tested all fans on a 12V Batt of course, and checked that starts were very frank for all of them then. This led me installing the Voltmeter on both their two board connectors... Here, the Voltage is not applied at full power within a fingersnap time. The system delivers a "slow" voltage ramp, to allow the fans to accelerate very smoothly. It seems that the designers liked this slow and precise increase in fan frequency sound. 😃(even if this design could only be a nice "fancy"?). Either way, acceleration and deceleration are still conducted smoothly here. The longer hesitation on the new product(s) might just be due to a different minimum Voltage for starting (each specific charachteristics regarding each model respectively). But don't worry too much about the delay here, because I've also tested leaving the new one locked for few seconds. Here the result : there's always a "wait and try again" feature, designed in all fans. In the case of a fan locked issue, the fan itself will detect the overcurrent (on its own), and then it will shut-off and be waiting for 2 seconds prior performing another start attempt again (in order to avoid burning their components + coils I think). Even if you test blocking of the new fan at start up (with your fingers only), then wait for the "auto-shut-down" to be active, and then realease the fan, you can see that the Voltage applyed by the board has already increased a lot, and the next attempt will be achived with no hesitation at all. In the mean time, a single artificially locked session with the new fan (though detected by the inverter system of course) wasn't enough time to trigger the fan fault error. The system needs to detect a fan blocked for approximately 10 seconds before deciding there's a cooling issue + total shut down. (if I'm remembering it accurately ?) About the oxydation issue, please, try checking the female connectors of the fans as well, and make sure there's no "green" on the lead ends. Cheers, and have a good day Green Bum.

Hi Scorp007, and Thanks ! Waiting for Blowdart18 reaction, I was also wondering if the word "Geyser" is corresponding to a tank + EV tubes ? Most of them are (usually) thermo-syphoningly circulating the hot water ? or with electric pumps ? Because, thermo-syphoning two different tanks (with no pump) is only possible if the hotter tank location is underneith the cooler tank I would say... And it seems that could indeed be the case here. May be some pictures could help answering (?). Lionel. P.S. : I would first think that connecting the tanks "in //parallel" pattern would be a more interesting solution for two tanks to be conncted to each other, than really in a "serial" pattern here (?)

Hello Blowdart18. New on this forum, and not used to english acronyms... What are you guys calling "EV" tubes exactly please... Hoping I could help you with an answer after understanding ALL of the question (if not too late ?)... Lionel.

Hi Green Bum. After searching everywhere on the net, and understanding that similar brand new fans could take a long time to be available (and I wasn't even sure if the inverter would accept them as a solution to the problem), I finally called half a dozen local computer stores : None of them had anything similar to what I needed, but the 7th store proposed me some very cheap ones (?) I bought two (used) fans from them. In fact, in addition of brand new computers, they also test junk PC parts and sell them cheap (for a second life). About your thought about "natural" down-up hot air convection for the components cooling effect, indeed this had been my first concern to be respecting... I first thought about placing the two fans on top of the unit with flow upward (with a pair of of additionnal DIY extra long 3 wires connectors) + moving the 2 filters from top to the bottom... But once you will be playing with the fans and checking accurately the displayed "diving" temperature (on your PC application with USB chord) + the hot flow sensed in your hand (down the unit / every time the fans are activated), then, you'll understand how these little fans are way more efficient than natural convection. On the other hand, if you try to vaccuum clean your upper filters (at least once or twice every year), then you will have build an always very efficient "two-ways" cooling system : 1) down>up when power(s) and temperature(s) are low. 2) up>down (with fans) when natural convection is no more the convenient solution. Personnaly. Since I have seen (and fixed) the oxidation on boards + connectors, in front of the fans, I definately prefer altering (a tiny bit may be ?) the efficiency of the fan flow, than risking some "programmed" bigger problems. Please note that in case the efficiency of "contra-convectional-fans" is not enough (opposeded to your local hot temperature in summer), a repeatedly ERROR 06 (= overheats) will always let you the interesting opportunity to check (more accurately) how better the original flow sense could be (i.e. : original down>up = convectional)... 😉 Please Green Bum, would you tell us when you're done with this Error 27 problem... (whatever the airflow sense that you'll finally choose). And don't forget to double check the colours of the wires on each datasheet before connecting the new fan... P.S. Normally, I would expect that you only have one single fan concerned with the problem... Mine was the left one (Connector number one). Lionel.

Hi Green Bum, Hi everyone. Sorry for huge delay because of emergencies (+ mild COVID) recently. Yes, the replacement worked great. I changed only one of the two fans : i.e. only the "dead" one (wich had a true "speed feed back failure"). Even if it was still running marvelously. https://eu.mouser.com/datasheet/2/6/AD0812XB-A73GL(N)-A-1155697.pdf I replaced it with a 9.2 cm diameter fan (because I coudn't find 8cm anymore). The important thing to be respected here is the nominal air flow only (not the RPM indeed). Here, 68CFM for the spare one VERSUS 57CFM for original fans. (spare one : https://www.delta-fan.com/Download/Spec/AUB0912VH-CX09.pdf ). Please note that here, I prefered boring 4 new holes in the plastic of the single spare fan, than modifying 4 small holes for screws + 1 big hole for air in the inverter casing. I agree that the too small original inlet hole of thet 8cm fans could have been a problem here though, but it might compensated with the better airflow of the 9.2cm spare fan. Also note that I finally decided to be flipping both the two fans upside down (in order them to be extracting the inside air instead of blowing outside moist and dust directly onto the boards and connectors, without inlet air filters). Indeed, I also discovered that boards and connectors were already oxydized (in front of the fans flow) after 2 years only (!) Here, the filters are mounted on top of the inverter, and to me, filters means inlet of course, not air outlets. As I said, check the air flow on every fans datasheet and it's wires colours (because you might be using a 4 wires fan with no problem, after knowing which wire to be plugged to where). As I planned, once I was totally sure that the machine was fixed, I also tested with very slow fans, in order to make sure that the software of this device was intelligent enough to be accurateley checking the speed of the two fans separately. I also tried manually while the fan was turning between 0 and 100 rpm only : the results are as followed. - The system only checks if the fans are emmitting few pulses (no matter the frequency of the pulses). - You can block one fan completly for few seconds with no error message at all (for approximately 15 seconds continuously, if I remember correctly) : And there will be no "fan fault" message at all since the fan can perform at least few turns avery 15 seconds. - If you exceed 15 seconds with one fan blocked, the system then consider that you have a fan failure of course (even if temperature is still very low). - Once the fan fault (ERROR 27) is triggered, the current switched to OFF, and the beep sound has been warning you for approximately one minute, the system might try to recover from this event by itself... Switching the main relay ON again, but the fault might resume several times, even if the fan is no more blocked. It seems that the error stays in memory even if there is no more fault actually. 🤔 Scary, but I needed to check it several times (in order to know that blocking a fan was not dangerous). I'm happy because now I know. This several reseting procedure of the inverter could be dangerous though : especially for computers, old refrigerators, congelators, or TVs because no appliances like beeing turned ON and OFF so many times. Not dangerous for the inverter of course. Because he must be designed for voltage failures of course. If the Error 27 fault is occuring while you're "playing" with faulty fans, or manually blocking or slowing down the fans (I had fun to play with) I would recommend to switch the infinisolar OFF right after the fan fault is triggered ON. The fault would be then reset and the inverter will then start again with no more fault. Hoping that these informations will help the maximum of users. Special thanks again to Coulomb who helped us a lot about informing that the standard codes only check for lack of pulse from fans (instead of searching for fan unexpected decelerations). Have a nice Week-End everybody. Lionel P.S. : All you needed to know about how to connect a 4 pins fan to these original 3 wires fans... Always check colours of wires correspondance on each fan datasheet (because pin out positions may vary from the main standard computer boards. https://www.quora.com/How-do-I-connect-a-4-pin-fan-to-an-old-3-pin-motherboard/answer/Janis-Baumanis?ch=10&oid=258771781&share=42265742&srid=uoWx47&target_type=answer

Thanks so much Coulomb for your always kindly shared experience + your immediate response here. I finally found + ordered Qty:2 , 3800 RPM / 4 wire fan (actual speed could then be only 10% less than the original 4200 RPM with 3 wires) in order to limit the risk of erroneous "fan fault error" display + immediate system shutdown (!!) The different number of wires on the spare fans should not be a problem here either: Indeed, the absence of a pin for their fourth wire (PWM), on the only 3 pins headers of the board should still allow their speed to be "voltage controlled" (by the board), instead of being "PWM controlled" by the fan chip (since the board doesn't have a PWM speed control system)... Nevertheless, I'll have to reposition correctly the new fans sockets inside the old connectors to make it conform to the reality of the board. But, in the meantime, I will of course try to find a used fan (the slowest one possible), in order to do some different additional tests, and to be able to, or not, confirm your expectation above... Respectfully. Lionel. P.S. : new fans are 92mm (instead of 80mm original). An other detail I will be obliged to deal with (And I'll share if problem)...

Hello. With the infinisolar+ 3kW, we recently had the same problem here, in the Reunion Island : Both 2 fans are running Ok but fan fault (Error 27) displayed every time the fans must be running. After investigations and disapointments (during 1 week), I finally decided measuring voltages (at least on both the 2 fan connectors, and finally discovered (after inverting their connector position respectively) that Fan #1 might be really faulty (whatever the sockect position I would plug it to). (and even if both fans were always turning well simultaneously, and at same speed). 👍 Indeed, the reading of tachymeter #1 (Voltage beteween black and Yellow leads) never changed (!) , even when the fans are turning full speed. I have noticed that the original reference of the 2 fans is now obsolete (Brand : ADDA / réf. : AD0812XB-A73GL), even if our inverter is only few month older than 2 years !!), and no store to buy Qty :2 which displays the folowwing specs : 80mm / 12V / 3 leads / 4200 RPM / 57 CFM. Here's my question : Does the board only uses this third wire (tachymeter) to control if the fan "took off" correctly and is now running ? Or has the code been programmed in order beeing accurately able to compare the exact RPM obtained with the Input Voltage/Speed that has just been demanded between the 12V "power" two leads ??(between black and red leads). I'm asking this because I'm not sure if I could succesfully replace these two obsolete fans (or not ?) with other models running 2000 rpm, 3000 rpm, 5100rpm (instead of this original 4200 rpm / in this product case). Hoping (at least) that someone already tested the fans replacement on this unit, and could advise about which FAN model to buy (with approximately 57 CFM air flow / or more). Thanks in advance for your help... Lionel.