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I think the standard response here would be to email the developer and let him know. He's pretty responsive and if it's a bug, it will probably be rectified. I'm not sure if it's just a visual bug or if it will actually prevent future updates from being picked up.

I had my installer out today because of a similar issue. I have a Freedom Won 10/8 and I noticed that I also had a sudden drop one morning from about 30% to 15%, it was weird. Then I realised the LED on the battery was double flashing red every 2 seconds or so. I called the installer and he immediately said it was because the calibration was out. Today, he did a reset (basically just switching off and then holding in a button or something like that). Freedom Won also installed the latest firmware so hopefully that sorts it out.

Can you ping the pi on its IP address (or even its hostname)? Have you tried HTTP and HTTPS? Have you tried a different browser?

The issue ended up being the actual cable itself. Guy from the installer company came out and tested and we found the actual cable itself was not working. So I just gave him an existing ethernet cable and he chopped off the ends and he re-crimped and tested to make sure it works. Just for anyone who reads this later, it's Pin 4 and 5 on the inverter side and Pin 7 and 8 on the battery side. (4 to 7 and 5 to 8 ) For whatever reason, a normal straight-through LAN cable didn't work. Even though the doc screenshots above seem to suggest that it should work.

Ok I tried another cable but it still seems to not work. Inverter is giving an SOC of 100% but the battery is more around 60% (based on the LED color on the face of the Freedom Won battery) I'm assuming this does not look correct: Here's what the inverter setup is like, please advise:

Yeah, I thought as much, thank you. The Freedom Won doc does say at the end there that a standard LAN cable should work for most inverters.

Ok, I think I'm getting it now. So I just need to do pin 4 and 5 on the battery side to pin 4 and 5 on the inverter side and leave the rest uncrimped? i.e. just cut them off Is there any harm in using a normal LAN cable for this? Seeing as pins 4 and 5 on one side end up at 4 and 5 on the other side.

Maybe I'm being stupid, I don't understand Table 5.1 in section 5.2 On the inverter side, the Sunsynk and Freedom Won manuals seem to agree. They both say to connect Pin 5 and Pin 4 on CAN-H and CAN-L respectively. On the battery side, the Sunsynk manual says Pin 1 and Pin 5 are CAN-H and CAN-L respectively. But the Freedom Won doc looks like it's saying Pin 4 and Pin 5 are CAN-H and CAN-L. (if I'm looking at the table 5.1 correctly...looking at blue/white and blue) Please advise?

Thank you! So basically Pin 1 to Pin 4 to and Pin 5 to Pin 5? Can you please provide a link to this doc? It looks handy. Also, in this screenshot from the Freedom Won manual, are they talking about the pins on the inverter side? Why don't they provide the pinout on the battery side?

Hi there Basically the title. I need help identifying how to make the cable between a Freedom Won 10/8 and Sunsynk inverter. Which colour wires go where on each end? I was told to do this by Freedom Won support when the guy did remote desktop and saw using Orion BMS that the battery showed 62% but my inverter is reporting 100%. So I guess the installers didn't make the cable correctly?

I just got the 4.5kW ITS Super installed a few days ago and it's pretty amazing. You can leave the timer completely off on the heatpump and when it does eventually kick in, it won't really run for very long. And also, it will only draw 1-1.2kW or thereabouts. So during the day, the PV will power the heatpump and then at night, it'll draw what it needs from the battery. Eventually what I ended up doing is to set Timer 1 so that the heatpump doesn't run between 9pm and 3am i.e. when we don't need hot water. You can adjust according to your schedule. Basically, as you said, free hot water during the day and then maybe one heating cycle at night that pulls from battery. (or worst case from grid if the battery is really low)

The wall that the geyser is on is facing a wide open space on the roof but there's isn't much place left for the heat pump. However, the adjacent wall is free but it's located in a bit more of a crammed space on the side of the house. I don't want to place it in an area where the heat pump efficiency will suffer. Or am I just being overly cautious here?

Ah ok, got it. I'll ask the installers on Friday to help and explain how exactly to disconnect the cable from that breaker if I ever need to in future. I don't wanna get shocked touching something I'm not familiar with.

Thank you very much! I'm actually having PV installed on Friday so I think I'll get them to connect it for me. I'm not comfortable at all touching that fuse/breaker box. Is there a reason why it can't be connected directly to the battery or the terminals inside the inverter? Not safe?

I'm having a heat pump installed in 2 days time. In general, what's the best location for a heat pump? To maximise it's efficiency etc? My existing geyser is on the roof on a wall mount bracket and I want the heat pump to be installed near to it.

Hi there I recently purchased Solar Assistant and I also got the optional cable that connects to your battery and powers the Raspberry Pi: https://solar-assistant.io/shop/products/dc_usb_psu But I just wanna make sure I connect it to the right place. Here's a pic of my setup attached. Solar Assistant support replied to me but I still need clarification on where exactly to connect it to: "Connect them to the breaker terminals that are in between the battery and inverter. Connect them on the inverter side of the breakers." Please help!